Hello All,
in the process of laying out my track and since I am doing my first HO layout I am running into a few questions. in my yard I am finding the turnouts are overlapping, can I trim the pieces off that are circled red? Have slow motion switch machines that will be mounted under the 3/4 inch plywood. Thank you
Kevin
Hi Kevin:
Yes, you can trim those pieces off. They are there to allow you to mount a model switch stand.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Kevin, you may also find a need or desire to adjust the length of turnouts as they are combined. With my Walthers-Shinohara code 83 it was possible (and easy) to shorten the length of the incoming (a little) and outgoing (diverging) tracks somewhat to either compact the turnouts combo and/or help to attain the downstream desired track spacing.
On the W-S turnouts, it was ok to remove ties and rail as long as it did not get too close to the throwbar area or getting to the areas where the rail jumpers are underneath (and quite visible). This was very helpful with some of my arrangements. Not sure how the Pecos are constructed and where those boundaries would be but such modifications can really help where the simple connection of stock turnouts is not optimal for the situation.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Yep, as Dave and Paul said, no problem.
I have also trimmed the ends of ties where the turnouts are close together.
Rich
Alton Junction
Just for my own edification, I'm assuming that the turnouts shown are Code 83. Correct? None of my Peco Code 100 turnouts have the extended switch stand ties, and the Code 100 point rails are curved.
Thanks
hon30critter Just for my own edification, I'm assuming that the turnouts shown are Code 83. Correct? None of my Peco Code 100 turnouts have the extended switch stand ties, and the Code 100 point rails are curved. Thanks Dave
Thanks all!
Yes, PECO code 83 turnouts. I didn't quite understand trimming the incoming and outgoing tracks to make them fit closer, assume that means trimming the rail?
Also, when attaching flex track (PECO Code 83) do you typically trim the off the ties under the joiner? Right now I have slipped the rail joiner on the rail and it is above ties. It looks fine but I would think that would raise the rail a slight bit and wonder if that will impact operation.
Found this, helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmE0EiWPQHk
fsts2kAlso, when attaching flex track (PECO Code 83) do you typically trim the off the ties under the joiner? Right now I have slipped the rail joiner on the rail and it is above ties. It looks fine but I would think that would raise the rail a slight bit and wonder if that will impact operation.
I used Atlas code 83 flextrack and W-S turnouts but the approach for the joiners, it the ties are in the way of the joiners, should be similar. My approach is one I've copied from others here.
I cut the flex and turnout ties off (but save them) enough to allow the rail joiners to be installed with the rails at correct height. My track was over cork roadbed if that matters. When the flex and turnouts were installed and secured (as needed) I then reinstalled the appropriate ties. I sliced the rail holder "bumps" off the ties to be inserted so they would slide into place beneath the rails, and put a bit of caulk (my track securing choice) on the bottom of the ties so they would stay in place.
fsts2kYes, PECO code 83 turnouts. I didn't quite understand trimming the incoming and outgoing tracks to make them fit closer, assume that means trimming the rail? I ran into the same problem designing a layout with SCARM. My solution was to add some track get separation. I am using ground throws though. Also, when attaching flex track (PECO Code 83) do you typically trim the off the ties under the joiner? Right now I have slipped the rail joiner on the rail and it is above ties. It looks fine but I would think that would raise the rail a slight bit and wonder if that will impact operation. Kevin
Also, when attaching flex track (PECO Code 83) do you typically trim the off the ties under the joiner? Right now I have slipped the rail joiner on the rail and it is above ties. It looks fine but I would think that would raise the rail a slight bit and wonder if that will impact operation. Kevin
Trimming the ends of the turn out will make the turnout more compact, but it won't help your problem. I ran into the same problem designing the layout with SCARM. My solution was to add some track to get more side by side separation of the tracks. I am using ground throws though.
It would be ideal to furrow out the tie material where the joiner connects, so it fits without jacking up the rail, but I don't find it easy. The tie material is harder than a sharp exacto blade. My hand is not harder than a railroad tie so I just cut the ties off, use a burr in a dremel to cut away the material where the joiner fits and the slip them under the rails and let the ballast glue hold them there.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Thank you, I am going to be doing the same thing. Got the cork roadbed laid down yesterday for the yard, will start putting down track this week.