I got this off Ebay as an undecorrated new in box kit. Where do the MU stands (circled in red) attach? They look like they should fit into holes, but there are no holes except for the eliptical holes in part #2
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hi Henry:
If you turn the shell over and study the the bottom of the walkway right beside where the pilot is attached you will see two very tiny drill points (depressions). They can be hard to distinguish from the weld marks caused by attaching the pilot but they are there. Probably best to use your Optivisor.
If you are considering installing working ditch lights you might want to carve out a couple of shallow channels in the underside of the walkway so the wires aren't pinched between the frame and the shell.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks Dave. I figured out from prototype photos that they included more parts than I need.
I did some painting and weathering on this one.
The pilot face is rust-colored. The MU hoses are black, and have silver connectors on the ends. They're just to the sides of the coupler.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Thanks Mr B I was hoping to see some pics. I have concluded that I have to paint some parts before assembly. Haven't quite decided on my paint scheme, the P&N is sort of Milwaukee Road with blue and orange.
Man there are all sorts of holes underneath
BigDaddy I figured out from prototype photos that they included more parts than I need.
Yes, they are giving you three options depending on what type your prototype used. Personally I think they are very poorly done.
BigDaddyMan there are all sorts of holes underneath
Henry:
I can't tell if you have already drilled out the ditch light holes or not, but if you haven't, the ditch light drill points are the two black spots on the underside of the walkway right above the circular mold marks.
Here is my GP9. The ditch lights have not been mounted but if you study the picture you will see two faint white dots in the same position as the black dots on your shell.
I'm still a newbie in DCC conversion but what are you using for ditch lights and decoder?
I have pretty much settled on using Loksound Select decoders. They have six functions so you can set up prototypical ditch light operation. That takes two functions by the way if you want the ditch lights to flash alternately. You can also set grade crossing logic whereby the ditch lights will flash when the horn is sounded but otherwise either stay on steady or off. Lots of options. Other decoders will have the same options as well.
I use 0402 SMD LEDs. I used to solder my own leads to them but now I buy them pre-wired. Much easier.
I tossed the ditch lights that came with the locomotive and used metal castings, but in the future I will use plastic castings like those shown in this (unneccessarily long) video:
http://jefeed.net/trends/watch/vid88ybP9-sUZbZg
I put a Tsunami in mine. This is one of the older models, perhaps even built before Walthers acquired Life Like.
I did a lot of cutting and grinding to get the decoder and speaker in. I built the speaker enclosure out of white styrene. You can see it on the left side.
hon30critter I have pretty much settled on using Loksound Select decoders. They have six functions so you can set up prototypical ditch light operation. That takes two functions by the way if you want the ditch lights to flash alternately. You can also set grade crossing logic whereby the ditch lights will flash when the horn is sounded but otherwise either stay on steady or off. Lots of options. Other decoders will have the same options as well. I use 0402 SMD LEDs. I used to solder my own leads to them but now I buy them pre-wired. Much easier. I tossed the ditch lights that came with the locomotive and used metal castings, but in the future I will use plastic castings like those shown in this (unneccessarily long) video: http://jefeed.net/trends/watch/vid88ybP9-sUZbZg Dave
Just curious, what era are you modeling with ditch lights on a GP7/GP9?
Sheldon
I appreciate the pictures. I did not drill any holes for ditch lights yet and I think my era is a bit early for them. Mr B thanks for the pic, mine is definitely a Life Like.
BigDaddy I appreciate the pictures. I did not drill any holes for ditch lights yet and I think my era is a bit early for them. Mr B thanks for the pic, mine is definitely a Life Like.
Ditch lights did not come into wide spread use until the 1990's, not a lot of GP7's or GP9's still in service at that point......
Hi Sheldon:
ATLANTIC CENTRALJust curious, what era are you modeling with ditch lights on a GP7/GP9?
I am loosely modelling the late 50s. Emphasis on 'loosely'! I read your post where you suggested that ditch lights didn't come into common use until the 90s, so I checked the CP diesel roster and you are right. Ditch lights only appeared on a couple of CP Geeps with the later packman paint scheme. I do recall seeing Canadian Pacific FP7s and 9s with ditch lights but I have no idea when they were added or if they were original equipment.
So, I guess I won't add any more ditch lights, that is unless I want to. I think they are neat! You know the rule. "Its my railroad and I will.....mess with the facts as I please".
Thanks for the information.
All the best!
I don't know a thing about the CP, but here in the US, in the 50's many roads did not even run with headlights on in the daytime yet. Mars lights and dual beam headlights were just being introduced.
I'm sure no FP7 came with ditch lights, how early something like extra lighting was added, I don't know.
ATLANTIC CENTRALI'm sure no FP7 came with ditch lights,
I realized that the FP7s and 9s that I saw with ditch lights were likely restored units being run for excursion trains.
http://www.trainweb.org/galt-stn/cproster/locomotive/1400s/cp1400r.htm
You can see a pacman car in the background.