I recently completed a build of a Bowser Casey Jones 10-wheeler. It is a reissue of the old Varney kit, apparently. It was extremely fun to build, and not difficult to convert to DCC. It runs really well, so I want to install Kadee couplers and see how well it pulls.
I seem to remember in the mists of time that one should not install Kadee #5s on metal frames that pick up current, like the tender of this kit. However, the Kadee site mentions #5s for both Bowsers and Varneys. http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
Bowser's website mentions installing a #4 in the pilot but nothing about the tender. Anyone install Kadees on one of these? Which one did you use? How did you do it?
Gary
Regardless of which Kadee couplers you use, they'll be in their own plastic draught gear boxes, so there's no problem with metal couplers in a metal locomotive. I'd guess that the tender would take a #5, or any of the "scale" versions with a centre-set shank.
Wayne
doctorwayne Regardless of which Kadee couplers you use, they'll be in their own plastic draught gear boxes, so there's no problem with metal couplers in a metal locomotive. I'd guess that the tender would take a #5, or any of the "scale" versions with a centre-set shank. Wayne
The tender has a box cast on the bottom. I should grind that off, then?
Before grinding, consider what will be coupled with your locomotive. A short would only be created if you double-up with another loco (with the same potential issue) or car that would also have a "live" coupler with power coming through the wheels. Could these happen?
Also, you can check if the coupler box and coupler remain insulated when inserting in the metal box. It should because of the plastic jacket around the screw.
Simon
Sorry, I forgot about the cast-on coupler box. However, it shouldn't matter: you can remove the cast-on box and replace it with a Kadee, or simply use one of Kadee's plastic couplers in the metal box. They're just as strong as the metal couplers and have an actual knuckle spring, just like the metal Kadees.
doctorwayne Sorry, I forgot about the cast-on coupler box. However, it shouldn't matter: you can remove the cast-on box and replace it with a Kadee, or simply use one of Kadee's plastic couplers in the metal box. They're just as strong as the metal couplers and have an actual knuckle spring, just like the metal Kadees. Wayne
As Wayne suggested......Kadee #28 Medium center shank isolated coupler:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page28.htm
Take Care!
Frank
zstripe doctorwayne Sorry, I forgot about the cast-on coupler box. However, it shouldn't matter: you can remove the cast-on box and replace it with a Kadee, or simply use one of Kadee's plastic couplers in the metal box. They're just as strong as the metal couplers and have an actual knuckle spring, just like the metal Kadees. Wayne As Wayne suggested......Kadee #28 Medium center shank isolated coupler: http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page28.htm Take Care! Frank
Here's a picture of the box:
Perhaps a #28 is the best solution. Would that work with this kind of box?
I ground mine off with a Dremel and tried a #5. It came out low, so a #27 off set is right on:
garyaPerhaps a #28 is the best solution. Would that work with this kind of box?
Gary,
They recommend a #5 and the real only differance in the #28 & #5 is the 28's knuckle is plastic, but it still can be used with magnets for uncoupling, cause the trip pin, is still metal. They claim the plastic is, very, very strong. I never really had any need to use them, so don't know for sure.