I am new to the hobby and would appreaciate your help with repowerting a few bluebox engines I acquired already.
I bought some old bluebox engines, most of them are Bo-Bo, some Co-Co, do you know if this micro-mark dirve system is enough to repower them?
http://www.micromark.com/Motor-Drive-System,9872.html
If yes, what other things do I need? For example, is the Universal Coupling Kit necessary? Can I use the old trucks?
- is there a tutorial to do the 5-wire system to improve Athearn locos?
- If planning to do some repaint, would Crayola Washable Paint in 16 oz bottles work?
Many Thanks!
Question. Why do you want to swap motors? Is the existing motor dead? Have you taken the power trucks apart, cleaned all the old hardened lubricant out, cleaned the gears, removed any flash, and relubed (lightly) and put things back together? The Athearn drives are pretty good, I wouldn't go for a motor swap unless the old motor was total dead and I could not fix it.
I am unfamiliar with the "5 wire system". One thing that does work, is replace the sliding metal strips that bring power from the trucks to the motor with plain wire. 1/4 inch Faston connectors from your hardware store will slip onto the strip on the trucks and allow you to run real wire from the trucks to the top clip of the motor. If I was going for DCC, I'd pull the motor out, and hard wire the bottom brush "connector" to the DCC decoder. Coming from the factory, the bottom motor brush goes right to the chassis, which is hot. For DCC, both motor brushes need to go to the DCC decoder, not to the rails.
If I was going to repaint a diesel shell. I'd use rattle cans. I never heard of anyone using Crayola paint for model railroading work.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Unless you've ended up with the old rubber band drives I'd agree with David.
Here's a link to a site that may be of help.....
http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.php
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks!
I have 1 rubber band loco, another one w/o flywheels, so worth getting the micromark one? is it general enough or I have to measure everything to get specific NWSL one? The micromark one seems to be complete with mount etc.
I still wonder what the Universal Coupling Kit will do, do you have to cut them to fit?
As to the 1/4 inch Faston connector, could you provide a link? couldn't find it on amazon..
Thanks again!
I think A line. Makes a repower kit for athearns. There are a bunch of kits out there actaully. NWSL. Power trucks are really nice.
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
For the rubber band drive, I'd cruise a train show looking for a junker with the gear tower drive. I bought a rubber band drive GP9 from Rule's hobby shop in Lancaster PA back in 1963. I still have it. But it runs on a Athearn geared four wheel drive chassis now. Dunno how one would go about such a conversion seeing as how the rubber band drive chassis lacked the necessary gear towers on the trucks. For that matter, an Athearn drive without flywheels is pretty ancient. I might look for a newer chassis for that one too.
Never had a universal coupling kit, but I'd expect such a product to allow you to cut things to length so they fit.
Go to your friendly local hardware store to get Fastons. They are only a few pennies apiece, not worth shipping 'em.
Could you post a pic for the 1/4 inch Faston connector? Just wanted to make sure I get the one that can slip to the trucks. Thanks!
Leo:
Here's an example available from Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Yellow-0-250-F-Disconnects-Case-of-5-75-145F/202522694
Joe
OP,
Read the whole link in JaBear's post, it will tell You just about all You need to know about redoing a Athearn BB. Also explains the 5 wire system which replaces having the chassis hot. It will completely isolate the motor from chassis. Aithough I run DC...I have done it that way to all My Athearn BB's and don't have any problem's at all with power pick-up.
Along with changing the trucks on the Hi-F drive, You will also have to cut the shaft towers that support the rubber band drive shaft and also mill the frame, easier to change chassis's. That coupling conversion kit from Micro-Mark, is actually by PPW/A-line, I suggest looking at the motors/trucks etc. from them. They also carry, frames, shells, chassis etc. for most all Athearn BB's.
https://a-line-arrow-hobby.myshopify.com/
Take Care!
Frank
LEOFUTURE1 rubber band loco,
Just a suggestion, how about running it as a Dummy?
LEOFUTURE 1 rubber band loco, Just a suggestion, how about running it as a Dummy? Cheers, the Bear.
LEOFUTURE 1 rubber band loco,
Hell...just lube the armature shaft bushings/bearings, clean-up or replace the brushes, put new rubber bands on it, (they still have them) and run it on DC. One thing is for certain....they are very quiet runners. I still have two F7's......Wanna' race? LOL
PS: I was explaining to My friend in the UK what you can use neoprene tubing for in the pic'.
I've read the whole link in JaBear's post, but it seems the 3 athearns I have are different, especially they don't seem to have the same wheel pickup clip as in the tutorial, their motors look shorter and open frame.
Since I am on budget, I'd appreaciate some advice on how to get them running. The left 2 are SDP40, the right one has a motor and detached wire, but motor was superglued on one side only.
I know one can get a motor drive for $30 from Micromark, but unsure if it will fit the above and/or worth it.
As usual, any help the forum can provide would be welcomed. Thanks!
Leofuture,
I don't want to offend You...but, I'm going to be blunt. Don't waste Your time and money on them, they are junk. The ones on the left, could be salvalgeable if You knew what You are doing. They are 1960's version without flywheels, with the old style steel wire worm gear housing connection, which are ok, if they are holding. The truck and gears are basically the same as the ones in the link. They pick-up power the same. Right side truck picksup positive + which is the top steel band, which is connected to the truck side frame and bronze bushings that the axles rest in. That should be spotlessly clean. The left side of truck also has the bronze bushings that the axles ride in and on the top of the truck is a steel pick-up plate with a hole in the center that attaches to the chassis where there in a cast pin...That is the negative - pick-up for the motor. You won't see a wire for that pick-up....the bottom of the motor is the negative - pick-up which makes the frame hot. Another sad part is...all the drive wheels on the ones You show have Brass wheels, which put bluntly, suck for power pick-up, unless extremely clean.
So in eccence....You would need a new motor, drive-line and new wheel sets...which would cost more than getting one used that run's and has been taken care of. Not even considering what the shell and grab irons look like.
The one on the right, looks to be a PA I frame/chassis and that isn't even an Athearn motor. You would need a whole new drive line motor, trucks for that also. Again....not worth it. Unless they have some sentimental reason, I would not waste My time.
That center one with the motor removed...If that wire is attached to the chassis in any way and with the other end soldered to the top of the truck as it is DO NOT put it on the rails under power.....it will instantly short.
Should You need more help or advice PM Me and I will try to help.
It is a shame that You posted this just a little late...like about two months late. I just gave away running Athearn Blue Box engines to a couple friends and a couple that I set up for DCC for them, that I had reworked.
Good Luck, in You decision!
the one on the right is an FP45 or an F45, nothing to do with a PA-1, wheels on that one do not look like brass to me; and so they are fine to use.
I took my rubber band drive engines from the 1950s, an F7 and a GP9, removed the motors and turned them into dummies. One is just sound, and the other has sound and lights. Their corresponding powered units have plenty of power to pull them along with their trains, so I still get to have these old friends on my layout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.