I just purchased a Tru-Scale HO Union Ice Co. kit. This thing is ancient but appears to be complete. My question is: What is best adhesive to use to attach the heavy cardstock pieces together, which adhesive for attaching the wood pieces together, and which adhesive to attach cardstock to wood? So far I have only attempted the new plastic kits, so this is a new challenge for me. Thanks for the help. Actually I am lucky that this kit was not destroyed when it arrived. USPS thought it would be a good idea to prop the package against the garage door. We were home at the time and when my wife drove out of the garage she fortunately did not run over the package. However, then the garage door came down and squashed it before the safety device sent it back up again. It was only then that my wife realized that there was a package. Once again, lucky, package was squashed on one end but no apparent damage to contents of the kit.
wdcrvr
Hi, WDCRVR
I think a few of the USPS carriers that bring packages to me went to the same delivery school! In the winter months they even set the packages where the tire tracks are coming out of the garage. Sometimes FedEx will do the same thing.Go figure...
Anyway. I'm sure opinions will vary and there really isn't one glue for every application. For the majority of my wood/cardstock/paper construction I like Weldbond Universal. It seems to be a little thicker consistency than traditional white glue. It works well for me.
http://www.weldbond.com/application_uses
Sometimes for wood-to-wood joints I'll use the Elmer's Carpenter's wood Glue, interior.
http://elmers.com/product/detail/e7010
And on some joints where I am cementing very small pieces in place I'll use canopy cement.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cars-and-trucks/pit-equipment/miscellaneous-15155--1/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56
I would get a few scraps of small basswood and cardstock and make a few test joints using any of the above and see which one you like.
Then there are times where I need a quick, solid joint, fast. I'll use an ACC gel in this case.
Often, modelers develop their own methods and their materials of choice will vary greatly.
This is just what seems to work best for me. YMMV!
Good Luck, Ed
wdcrvr:
If you are new to wood/cardstock kits you might want to have a look at the assembly method suggestions on Bar Mills Scale Models website:
http://www.barmillsmodels.com/
I'm not sure if Bar Mills uses cardstock but it can be treated pretty much the same as wood. Just be aware that you don't want to get it wet so use several light coats of paint instead of one heavy one, and let the paint dry thoroughly between coats.
Cardstock and thin wood sheets are prone to warping. I suggest using bracing on inside surfaces where it can't be seen, and prime both sides of the wood/cardstock sheets with cheap automotive spray primer before starting. Don't worry if the sheets warp a bit when you paint the first side. They will flatten out once the other side is painted and the paint has dried.
FWIW, I replace any cardstock parts with .040" or .060" styrene. It is more durable, but it still usually needs to be braced.
Have fun! Once you have done a wood kit you will want to do more.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
An opinion:
This kit is a Suydam offering that has been around forever as you point out. In looking at the contents, (online research) I would say that it is very old technology in terms of detail and materials. In building this kit, you will spend lots of time wrestling old technology into a good but not great end product - as judged by today’s craftsman standards. These kits require filling, sanding and general messing around to get them together cleanly. In addition, the buildings need lots of added internal bracing to keep their structural integrity.
Today there are easier, better looking ways to do what these old materials can do that take a lot less time. As other posters have suggested, You might consider using the plans and templates to build a plastic version of the model or at least replace the cardstock parts with styrene.
Now I do know that there aren’t many kits the have the cooling ventilator fin assembly like this one does but there are several that do come close such as OOP Walthers’ cold storage building. Myself, I ended up scratch building an Ice company rather than using old technology kits.
I am not suggesting you don’t build the kit, just pointing out that this kit is state of the art 1950. You will be taking a tour of Model railroading history through the building of the Ice Company. I don’t want to be discouraging in any way. However, since you stated you have experience mainly with plastic kits, I just want to make sure you are aware of what you have in your hands. In other words - if this seems like a difficult kit - it is.
For a good examples of modern craftsman style kits using the same skills as this kit, but yielding better end results with less effort - check out Banta, BTS, BIS, Bar mills and others. Also see the BTS thread current in the forum.
Have fun with the kit,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Yellow carpenter's glue, for example Titebond, is the right stuff for wood to wood, wood to cardstock and cardstock to cardstock joints. It wants a good close fitting joint (some sanding will get you there) and clamping for overnight. Done right it will bond wood to wood stronger than straight wood.
For joints that don't require maximum strength, cellulose cement (Duco) is good, hardens in minutes and does not require clamping.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Scratch building is a blast! (not the Gomez Adams kind).
When you get to that stage let us know. There are tons of tips and tricks which forum members can share.
In the mean time, have fun with the ice company. Please share some photos with us.
Here is a direct link to the Bar Mills Models video on gluing which I forgot to include in my first post. Top row, far right:
http://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php#anc-videoclinics
P.S.
J.L. Innovative makes nice ice blocks if you need any visible inventory.
I really like the old Suydam cardstock kits. I also have a Union Ice kit on the layout...although modified to fit my space :
(just noticed how old this pic is...very different looking area now):
I've found that Aleene's tacky glue works really well not only for gluing cardstock, but also the wood pieces.
The hardest part about old Suydam type kits now is the paint.
Floquil used to make things so easy. Unlike water based paints, Floquil would not warp cardstock.
I find myself now priming with a super thin coat of Rustoleum Auto Primer, or better yet if you can find it; Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. After the primer dries, I then use various craft paints to paint the structures.
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
wdcrvrDo you prime the parts before assembly?
I assemble as much as I can, usually without the roof on or window glass installed, then prime.
wdcrvrGreat color on your ice plant. What paint did you use?
I used Floquil CN Gray for the structure and Floquil Grimy Black on the roofs. Not sure if these are easy to find anymore.