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Even if your bulbs are designed for AC current, you will get longer life by using DC current. Also, most commercial HO powerpacks generate excessive voltage, especially through their AC accessory outputs. I once measured 28v on one popular model (identity witheld to protect the guilty). A fairly easy way to solve both problems while still using your AC accessory outlet is to get a bridge rectifier and a 12v voltage regulator from Radio Shack. Both parts are inexpensive and include usable instructions on how to wire them. <br /> <br />If you want to get a bit fancier, its also a relatively easy project to buy a variable-voltage regulator. This little package allows you to specify the output voltage based on the value of the resistors wired into the circuit. This is much more effective than using trial-and-error to find a suitable fixed-value resistor (as Cacole says above, while there is a simple formula for determining resistor values, in the "real world" there are other issues, especially at low loads, that in my experience mean that the simple formula does not deliver the expected results; also, if you add more lights and thus alter the load on the circuit, your original fixed value is no longer the suitable one). The formula for choosing your two resistor values was printed on the package the last time I bought one. For bulbs rated at 16v, I find that 12v works well; for bulbs rated at 12v, I use 9-10v. <br /> <br />Regarding light blocks in buildings: I find that cutting black construction paper to fit, is much more effective than painting the inside walls and certainly no more difficult.
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