I've got 4 Rivarossi passenger cars I got at a show. I've replaced the plastic wheels with metal, and the couplers with some clip-in plastic McHenrys.
These trucks though, are REALLY sloppy. It seems like springs in between the truck and body would help. Where can I get such springs? I've seen them on locomotives, but not on cars.
Julian
Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)
fieryturboThese trucks though, are REALLY sloppy. It seems like springs in between the truck and body would help. Where can I get such springs? I've seen them on locomotives, but not on cars.
If, by sloppy, you mean they are extremely loose not matter how much you tighten the screws. I've run in to this before. What I've noticed is that the center of the kingpin sticks through the truck too far. If you look closely, you may have the same issue. The fix it to sand/trim the kingpin so that it is slightly below the bolster, so that you can adjust the amount of play.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
It's been a LONG time since I've worked on a Rivarossi/AHM passenger car.
BUT.
As I recall, mine had a press in plastic truck pin. So there was no screw to tighten.
I also recall that the trucks had three point suspension, in that there were two plastic pins on one end of the underframe to keep the car from rocking sideways. The other end didn't have the pins, so that that truck could follow the track.
If my remembering is correct, there is no reason to add a spring at the truck pivot point.
Rivarossi could have changed the truck mounting, of course. But the old cars are still around.
Ed
Medina1128 fieryturbo These trucks though, are REALLY sloppy. It seems like springs in between the truck and body would help. Where can I get such springs? I've seen them on locomotives, but not on cars. If, by sloppy, you mean they are extremely loose not matter how much you tighten the screws. I've run in to this before. What I've noticed is that the center of the kingpin sticks through the truck too far. If you look closely, you may have the same issue. The fix it to sand/trim the kingpin so that it is slightly below the bolster, so that you can adjust the amount of play.
fieryturbo These trucks though, are REALLY sloppy. It seems like springs in between the truck and body would help. Where can I get such springs? I've seen them on locomotives, but not on cars.
7j43k It's been a LONG time since I've worked on a Rivarossi/AHM passenger car. BUT. As I recall, mine had a press in plastic truck pin. So there was no screw to tighten. I also recall that the trucks had three point suspension, in that there were two plastic pins on one end of the underframe to keep the car from rocking sideways. The other end didn't have the pins, so that that truck could follow the track. If my remembering is correct, there is no reason to add a spring at the truck pivot point. Rivarossi could have changed the truck mounting, of course. But the old cars are still around. Ed
Yeah, we are talking about the same thing, truck pins and all.
Then I don't think I'd change anything on the truck mount. There's really no reason for a spring with this system. I've recreated it on numerous cars, and I've never used a spring on the truck screw.
If the tab holding the truck on is 'loose', you could replace it with a screw. I had to do that on a car (IIRC the tab broke when removing the truck at one point) but it was a long time ago, don't recall the size screw you'd need.
In my opinion, a Rivarossi passenger car requires the following changes if it is to function well on the layout.
Replace trucks with good quality trucks. This means changing the pivot point, and using a screw to mount each truck.
Add weight according to the NMRA formula.
Install body mounted long-shank Kadee couplers with pivot points located for realistic coupling distances. Make sure coupler height is correct.
Operate on track with at least 30" curves.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
wjstix If the tab holding the truck on is 'loose', you could replace it with a screw. I had to do that on a car (IIRC the tab broke when removing the truck at one point) but it was a long time ago, don't recall the size screw you'd need.
They sell replacement pins for crazy high amounts, but you can use 6/32" size machine screws. For couplers I prefer the Athearn replacement couplers to the Kadee kit. The Athearn coupler just snaps right in place while the Kadee you have to do some hacking. I haven't changed the wheels or trucks on mine because the original European quality is very good and they roll very smoothly.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/248729.aspx
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