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What are your thoughts on the new Athearn passenger cars?

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What are your thoughts on the new Athearn passenger cars?
Posted by DAVID FORTNEY on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 11:01 AM

They seem to be very nice and will run on sharper curves, 18". I know they are about 72' in length. Any issues? 

Nicely priced also.

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Posted by Paul3 on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 11:42 AM

Which "new" Athearn passenger cars?  It might help if you include a link to them.  The existing Athearn 72' passenger cars (both stainless steel and heavyweight) are 50+ years old and can be found in kit form at every train show and on eBay.

The baggage and RPO cars are okay in length; the rest are generally undersized by about 13'.  There are some that prefer shorty cars (Hi, Sheldon!) because they like how they look on curves vs. prototypical 85' cars that can overhang (and underhang) on our unprototypical track curves.  My counterpoint is that while it's true that shorty cars look better than longer cars on curves, they look worse at all other times, like on straight track or on no track at all.

Backing up these Athearn cars can be a trick due to their truck mounted couplers (they'll derail).  I recommend converting them to body mounts provided you have the track radius to support them (at 18" radius, leave them be).

You also have to watch the coupler height on the truck mounts because the plastic can get warped.  You may need to bend them a bit to get the height correct.

Paul A. Cutler III

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Posted by tstage on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 11:47 AM

Streamlined or heavyweight?  In general, if it's the Athearn Roundhouse then the detailing will be "okay" but the accuracy more miss than hit.  If that's not a concern to you then the price is pretty reasonable for decent passenger cars.

Tom

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 12:12 PM

Paul3

 

Backing up these Athearn cars can be a trick due to their truck mounted couplers (they'll derail).  I recommend converting them to body mounts provided you have the track radius to support them (at 18" radius, leave them be).

You also have to watch the coupler height on the truck mounts because the plastic can get warped.  You may need to bend them a bit to get the height correct.

Paul A. Cutler III

 

Paul I hope you can help me with my Athearn Streamline cars.  I was having trouble with uncoupling with the couplers installed per standard Athearn coupler pockets.  I tried using body mounted couplers and that caused derails.  What did I do wrong?  I was kicking around using full body diaphragms but the body mount couplers derailed.
 
I went back the standard Athearn truck mount using Kadee SE Shelf Couplers and that took care of my problems.
 
I have two sets of 9 passenger Athearn 72 footers, I went with the shorty for aesthetics on my 24” radius.  Longer cars just don’t look right to me under 30” radius.
 
I might add that I have added extra weight to all of my rolling stock because all of my locomotives have plenty of pulling power.  All of my Athearn trucks have Athearn metal wheels, I never liked the plastic wheel opposite the metal wheel.  
 
 
I think the OP might have been talking about the new Athearn 77' cars.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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Posted by Paul3 on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 3:38 PM

RR_Mel,
It depends on your track curves.  Body mounts will tend to derail cars when the cars get longer and the curves get tighter.  One "trick of the trade" is to use long-shank Kadees and mount them further back under the car.  This way you keep the closer car spacing, but get the longer swing of the long shank to prevent binding on the coupler box.

BTW, make sure when you do body mount the couplers that not only are they the right height, but also they are the right depth.  You do not want the hard plastic ends of the cars to touch when backing up.  That will cause derailments for sure.  Doing so means that the cars will have space between them when pulling due to the slack in every Kadee (and Kadee clone).  Using diaphragms to fill the gap is good, but sometimes they'll snag each other and derail.  The way to fix that is to use a clear .005" plastic plate over the whole diaphragm striker plate.  I've also seen people use 3M Magic tape (not the clear because the clear will dry out and fall off; Magic tape won't).

Paul A. Cutler III

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 4:41 PM

Paul3

RR_Mel,
It depends on your track curves.  Body mounts will tend to derail cars when the cars get longer and the curves get tighter.  One "trick of the trade" is to use long-shank Kadees and mount them further back under the car.  This way you keep the closer car spacing, but get the longer swing of the long shank to prevent binding on the coupler box.

BTW, make sure when you do body mount the couplers that not only are they the right height, but also they are the right depth.  You do not want the hard plastic ends of the cars to touch when backing up.  That will cause derailments for sure.  Doing so means that the cars will have space between them when pulling due to the slack in every Kadee (and Kadee clone).  Using diaphragms to fill the gap is good, but sometimes they'll snag each other and derail.  The way to fix that is to use a clear .005" plastic plate over the whole diaphragm striker plate.  I've also seen people use 3M Magic tape (not the clear because the clear will dry out and fall off; Magic tape won't).

Paul A. Cutler III

 

That’s pretty much what I tried.  I had 1/16” minimum clearance between car bodies on my 18” radius test track.  I used the Kadee coupler gauge to set the couplers.  The derailing was random cars and random track, not necessarily on a curve. ???
 
The minimum radius on my mainline is 26”with #6 Atlas Custom Line turnouts and 18” turnouts in my yard.  I rarely put a passenger car through a 18” turnout.
 
Since I converted to Kadee SE Shelf Couplers on the Athearn trucks everything is OK.  I changed out the couplers on all 20 passenger cars to the Kadee 119 SE.
 
I never got around to trying diaphragms, I read about too many problems on more than one forum.
 
 
Thanks Paul
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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Posted by DAVID FORTNEY on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 9:04 PM

I just recieved two of the cars in UP. I like them beings I have mostly 18" curves. They look nice, have knuckle couplers that keeps the cars close together. For the price you can't go wrong IMO. 

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 9:28 PM

DAVID FORTNEY

I just recieved two of the cars in UP. I like them beings I have mostly 18" curves. They look nice, have knuckle couplers that keeps the cars close together. For the price you can't go wrong IMO. 

 

All of my Athearn streamline passenger cars are older BB 72 footers.  I had problems with uncoupling and the fix was to replace the couplers with Kadee Shelf couplers (#119).  I really like Athearn Passenger cars and I always keep my eye open for more.
 
I scratch built several interiors and picked up some IHC interiors off eBay.
 
Because I’m a SP freak I wanted a couple of SP ¾ dome/lounge car. I kitbashed a couple of Bachmann full domes but the 85’ Bachmann looked really bad next to the 72 footers.  I finally kitbashed a Athearn 72’ diner into a ¾ dome/lounge car.
 
 
Athearn passenger cars are easy to work with and they look very good too. 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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Posted by tstage on Wednesday, December 2, 2015 11:36 PM

DAVID FORTNEY

I just recieved two of the cars in UP. I like them beings I have mostly 18" curves. They look nice, have knuckle couplers that keeps the cars close together. For the price you can't go wrong IMO.

So you asked opinions...after you had already purchased them???  Sorta a moot point, isn't it?

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Posted by DAVID FORTNEY on Thursday, December 3, 2015 9:57 AM

tstage

 

 
DAVID FORTNEY

I just recieved two of the cars in UP. I like them beings I have mostly 18" curves. They look nice, have knuckle couplers that keeps the cars close together. For the price you can't go wrong IMO.

 

 

So you asked opinions...after you had already purchased them???  Sorta a moot point, isn't it?

 

I had some of the older Athearn passenger cars and wanted to know what people thought of the new ones just released. 

The moot point is you responding like you did. Next time, MYOB.

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Posted by fieryturbo on Thursday, December 3, 2015 10:34 AM

Are these the old Rivarossi castings?  If so, I personally think they're crap. Run like crap, track like crap, and the truck mounted couplers look rediculous.  Even my fiance who knows nothing about trains commented they looked silly on the 18" radius I put them on for testing, and they fall over ALL THE TIME, even with metal wheels.

Unless your time is worth nothing, I'd suggest paying more for good cars, to save yorself the headache.  I don't know if Athearn gave them better trucks or not, but those truck mounted couplers are all kinds of pain.

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

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Posted by Soo Line fan on Thursday, December 3, 2015 10:54 AM

The entertainment value of this forum cannot be overstated. Laugh

Jim

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Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, December 3, 2015 11:12 AM

fieryturbo

Are these the old Rivarossi castings?  If so, I personally think they're crap. Run like crap, track like crap, and the truck mounted couplers look rediculous.  Even my fiance who knows nothing about trains commented they looked silly on the 18" radius I put them on for testing, and they fall over ALL THE TIME, even with metal wheels.

Unless your time is worth nothing, I'd suggest paying more for good cars, to save yorself the headache.  I don't know if Athearn gave them better trucks or not, but those truck mounted couplers are all kinds of pain.

 

The Athearn BB 72 footers that I have track perfect and I’ve never had one “fall over” even going through #4 turnouts in my yard.  The only time I had one derail is when I tried changing from the Athearn truck mounted couplers to body mounted couplers, that failed.
 
I have 20 Athearn BB 72 footers with stock trucks that will run continuously for hours without any problems.  Maybe you need to check your track for problems if the Athearn 72’ passenger cars don’t track.  The only problems I’ve had with mine was an occasional uncoupling that switching to Kadee #119 couplers fixed.
 
I have two ten car Athearn SP Daylight Passengers towed by E7s that never have any problems.   
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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Posted by DAVID FORTNEY on Thursday, December 3, 2015 11:40 AM

I have the old and now the new Athearn passenger cars and never had one fall over. It seems you are either bating us or kidding us. If you don't like them, so be it but don't denigrate us that like them. I wish I could afford the $80 per car from Walthers or MTH but I can't. The Athearn passenger cars fits me in more ways then one. 

Next time keep your thoughts to your self. 

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Posted by ndbprr on Thursday, December 3, 2015 12:00 PM
Didn't CNW have some shorty cars used in commuter service at the end of their life?

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