What is the prefered airbrush system for modeling?

[Anonymous]

Hi all, With winter at our doorstep soon I'm going to start having more time to get going on my layout again. Along with working on my layout I am going to do some painting on rolling stock & locomotives. My question is; What would be a good reasonable airbrush system setup for doing a good job? I'm not worried about the cost, But a good average setup will do me fine. I just want to get a good quality product out of what ever I decide to go with. Thank You all in advance for your time. "HAPPY RAILS" ..............Ken.

[Anonymous]

Bager should be good but it will cost you a pretty penny. Then there are those nice gravity fed ones.

[chutton01]

QUOTE: Originally posted by HODude

Bager should be good but it will cost you a pretty penny. Then there are those nice gravity fed ones.

The Badger 200 is pretty standard, and it's not too bad a price (look around at Discount Art Stores too, like Pearl Paint)
Here's the 200 kit (not the 200-20, 200-2, or other derivatives - just the 200 model) at a Discount On-Line Hobby Store for $69.00, which is in line with other discounters I've seen (http://www.internettrains.com/babasetmo2001.html - hunt around on the web a bit to see if you can better that price). It's a fairly easy to use single action general purpose air-brush, and you can get different heads and needles for fine work.
Oh yes, the real cost in your system would be a compressor unit to have a steady flow of pressurized air - the Propel cans don't last long...

[Anonymous]

I used a Badger 250 (the little cheapy one) for years. Loved it! Just got a 350 - can't wait to try it out. Although I've sprayed for years, I still do not think I'm up for the double action brush yet. My single action does fine.
I would agree with chutton. Get the compressor. There are several threads on the forum discussing compressors. With what you save on the Propel cans, any compressor you buy will pay for itself (some quicker than others).

[cjcrescent]

Passche is a good brush as well. I used several types of Passche, Iwata, Badger, and even an old Binks, and I found the Passche the most durable of the bunch.
And by all means get a compressor to go with it. It's mucho cheaper over the long run to get one as opposed to using those "air cans". Don't think you can afford one right now? Buy a re-fillable tank from wally-world, K-mart etc, and get a small regulator to be able to control airflow. A tank will allow you to paint several models before you need to take to one of those coin operated compressors so prevalant today and re-fill it.

[Anonymous]

You will probably get a reply for each and every type of airbrush out there. Everyone has different uses and abilites and needs, so no one airbrush will be suitable for everyone. Pick one, buy it and use it. Practice with it a lot, then if you find it does not meet some of your needs, then move on to a different kind.

The hardest part about using an airbrush is having one first!

Bob Boudreau

[Anonymous]

While I"ve only used Badger, I've ready many good comments from folks that use Paasche. I'll bet you can't go wrong with either. One thing you might want to keep in mind is whether or not you have a place near you to purchase parts. Air hose, tips, needles, siphon tubes, mixing jars that fit etc. While these are inexpensive items, I would hate to have to mailorder a 10.00 part plus 7.00 shipping because the LHS or Hobby Lobby/Michaels doesn't carry the parts for the brand you purchased.

[cjcrescent]

dkelly;
I understand about the parts, but Michaels is an authorized dealer for passche as is several of the Arts & Crafts stores here that are not chains. I recommend that stokerk go to each manufacturers website and explore each brand prior to purchasing or do a google search on each brand name for websites on those airbrushes.

[ndbprr]

Brand doesn't matter as much as features. A dual action is top of the line. It allows you to press down on the button to increase air and pull back to increase paint. Both are infinitely adjustable so you alter your volumes based on the thinness of the paint. The thinner the paint is the higher you want your airflow to be so you can drive the volatiles out of the paint and not create a splotch. I started with a single action Miller years ago and got the airbrush and a compressor for under $50.00. Even it was far superior to anything I could do by hand. I've since graduated to a Paasche. Another important feature is the ease of cleaning the gun. I don't find the Passche to be the easiest in the world when it comes to disassembly. As a matter of fact it is quite annoying to take it all apart.

[Anonymous]

cjcresent,

I agree 100 percent that one should check out the manufacturers' web sites. Would also be great if stokerk has friends that own different brushes that he can check out to see what fits right, feels right etc. There are also several threads both here and in the finescale modeling forum discussing airbrushes (I think FSM did an airbrush review not that long ago). Yup, we got Michaels out here and they do carry Pasche parts and the Hobby Lobby across the street has some badger stuff. The LHS carries some of both. I'm just trying to avoid the situation where someone buys the bru***hat is perfect for him/her and then having to mail order for parts/accessories where if he/she bought the second place finisher (hopefully it was a neck and neck race) he/she could have purchased parts and accessories right down the street.

ndbprr: While there is truth to the statement "brand doesn't matter" the best brush in the world won't be worth much if you can't use it because you can't get a 50 cent replacement part. I agree that dual action is the top of the line, but I've never been able to get the hang of it, so I've stuck by my single action brush. (I know - if I'd just practice a bit I'd get it, but I'm pretty happy with my S.A.). Excellent point about ease of cleaning/disassembly! I've not seen any mention of this important thing to evaluate in the threads I have read. If it's a pain to clean, I (I"m sure I'm not the only one!) have been known to blow it off. Result? Clogged gun and more time spent getting it back on line than if I had just cleaned it the first time!! (Never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it again!!).

Dave

[Anonymous]

Hey thanks everyone, You all sure gave alot of good info & things for me to think about. I used to paint trailers in the 80's for a company that was in Ladysmith Wi. We used all Binks spray guns so I do have somewhat of an idea as to what I have to do, I have never used an airbru***hough & it sure will be a different ball game that's for sure. I'm going to do a little more browsing on the info given by you folks. Also I probably will most likely stock up on extra parts for the equipment just like we did at the trailer company. It sure was nice to have the parts handy at a moments notice when a gun went down. If at anytime that any of you folks might have anymore info or pointers on this subject please post it, I'd like to get any & all good or bad info. PS; What ever I decide to do I'm going all out as far as the best setup with compresor etc. In the future I'll keep everyone posted on what I've come up with & how it works out for me. "Thanks again for your wisdom folks".............. "HAPPY RAILS"...................Ken.

[Anonymous]

I've noticed on some of the manufacturers web sites that they have oil less compressors. What would any of you prefer? oil , or oil less. I'd think that the oil compressors would last longer but have a little more maintainance upkeep on them, Which is OK by me................Ken.

[PennsyHoosier]

I just upgraded to a Badger 200 NH from an old cheapy Testors (which actually did okay, but spit at bad times--very finicky about thinning). Like dkelly, I'm not ready to take the plunge into a dual action brush--yet. In the interim, this new airbrush is simply excellent. I highly recommend it.

[Anonymous]

I have an old (about 10 years, maybe?) Badger 200-3 kit that the bride gave me during my last modeling bout. It always intimidated me a bit, and just sat in the box all these years. No amount of reading about how to use one could budge me to actually try it.

What finally did it was the MR "Scenery & Weathering" DVD I picked up on sale at the train show this past weekend. Actually seeing one demonstrated convinced me to take it out of the box and try it out. And now I'm convinced and hooked, and it'll definitely be a part of my weathering and scenery toolkit now.

[Hawks05]

i'm thinking about asking for a little airbrush for Christmas from my dad. i don't know if he'll go for that though.

i was wondering can you use the spray paint that is used for painting model cars and what not on trains? if its safe to use that then i might just do that instead of spend the money on an airbrush right now. when i go off to college i won't have a lot of time to do much with trains besides kits so if the spray cans work i might just do that. also i notice on most Athearn undecorated locos they are black, if i plan to paint the body of my loco black will i even need to spay the body or can i just leave it? the nose will most likely be red, will i need to get some primer or can i just start spraying red?

[jimrice4449]

I used to do custom oainting to finnce the hobby and splurged for 2 brushes both Paasche. One was a single action H and the other a double action VL. The H hangs on the wall and the VL gets used 99% of the time. As for cleaning, I don't think I disassemble it more than once a month and I do a LOT of painting. The trick is after your done with one color, run a paintcup full of whatever thinner you're using thtough the brush, holding a paper towel over the front of the brush for brief periods. This causes bubbles to back up into the paintcup which effectively cleans out the old paint. You can tell how you're doing by checking the color you get on the paper towel. No color the brush is clean. After you clean out the last color you'll be using that sesion, run half a paintcup ot so of acetone through the brush. This will clean out the last of the thinner which can get gummy sometimes if not cleaned out. Then remove the needle (OK so there,s a little disassebly) and wipe it off with that part of the paper towel that you sprayed with acetone. Finally take a pipe cleaner (those 4 or 5 inch long wires with fuzzy cotton on them) and dip it in the acetone and run it up the air brush were the needle ordinarily goes, give it a couple of turns and you're done.

[novacoach]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Hawks05


i was wondering can you use the spray paint that is used for painting model cars and what not on trains? if its safe to use that then i might just do that instead of spend the money on an airbrush right now. when i go off to college i won't have a lot of time to do much with trains besides kits so if the spray cans work i might just do that. also i notice on most Athearn undecorated locos they are black, if i plan to paint the body of my loco black will i even need to spay the body or can i just leave it? the nose will most likely be red, will i need to get some primer or can i just start spraying red?

I have used the car sprays for many years. In the UK the main chain store is Halfords and I have used their primers and gloss colours very successfully - does Ford Conifer Green say MEC Pine green to you -it does me.
I get the odd look as I carefully check tones in the store but it works. Follow all the normal rules PLUS - warm the cans in some water for a finer spray and test things first! -

I would definitlely prime black plastic - with light colours such as red or yellow a white base goes on far more easily first.

Having said that I've just bought a Badger 150 and am already pretty pleased - no car company does anything like B&M blue! and lightly sprayed track is better looking with an airbrush - still on the cans though.
Hope this helps

Chris

[RedLeader]

I've used a lot of airbrushes including the Badger. I bought an Aztec A470 about five years ago, and still works like a charm, the nozzles are in perfect condition and is the best double action airbru***here is.

[AntonioFP45]

Have used a variety of spray equipment.

I've stuck with a Paasche' VL for a long time. Good, but very finnicky if even the smallest amount of dried paint remains inside the unit.

I would recommend Paasche or Badger units.

As always, the key to an airbrushes life span is KEEPING THEM CLEAN! For solvent based paints, flush with lacquer thinner. With acrylics, flush with warm water or alcohol. Wipe the aircap, fluid tip and needle after use.

Take care of your investment and it will come through for you everytime!

[Anonymous]

I like my Iwatas. I did manage to break the nozzle on my Revolution series. When they say don't overtighten, they ain't kidding! [banghead] Now, I'm using an Eclipse. Both are gravity fed.

Can't say I think much of the Azteks. The ergonomics are just weird. (never could hold mine correctly) I just don't like the feel of a plastic airbrush.