RR_MelI’m open for comments, positive and negative.
Join me in modeling the N&W in the mid 70's. Plain black paint - no masking required.
If it's any consolation, it looks like you had done a nice job on the paint. But then I suppose that just makes it more aggravating when it gets screwed up.
BTW, when I do use masking tape, I always use my heat shrink gun to soften the adhesive before peeling it off. (not that I think that would have prevented your problem)
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I had a client request I paint a Cary A-B Set of F units. I had similar problems. I purchased a cheap grit blaster and gave the shells a blasting. This, combined with very careful cleaning with vinegar and then rinsing well with distilled water gave me success. I was painting the old CNR Green and Yellow scheme.
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Greg WilliamsCanterbury, NBCanadahttps://www.gregstrainyard.com/
I always etch metal (brass, Zamak, pot metal) before painting. A 1/2 hour soak in supermarket vinegar works for me. The mild acid etches the metal and gives the primer some tooth to grab onto. Also degreasing is critical, the thinnest film of oil, mold parting compound, or fingerprints will spoil a paint job. For serious work wear rubber gloves after the last wash with dish detergent and hot water rinse. I haven't tried the "self etching" primers. I use Rustoleum or Krylon "auto primer" which comes in rattle cans of light gray, dark gray and red. For that top coat, I would use the red auto primer. The auto primers have all the chemistry the paint company knows to make them stick to metal, in fact I've seen 'em stick to moderately oily auto parts. If your metal is good and clean, they will stick better.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Vinegar!
That must've been a bummer, Mel.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I've used zinc chromate (rustry red color) paint as a primer on metal engines (old Mantua boilers, Cary metal body shells) with good results. Put that down as a first coat, then paint 'normal' gray primer over that.
BTW it's also a good match for UP's standard freight car color.
Mel,
Looks to Me like the primer stuck well...the TCP paint seems like it didn't stick. Did You scuff the primer at all, before Your dust coat....You did start with a dust coat right? If You didn't that is part of Your problem. Any paint that comes of with masking did not adhere correctly to begin with. Also a fine 3m scuff pad would have helped. I mix Acryl paints and solvent all the time 1:1 and models and always scuff primer before dust coat, which is also important, if the other coats are to stick. I use 3m fine line tape when masking colors.....but I only burnish the edge where the fine line needs to be and just press on the other. I use Blue painter's tape to tape the rest on half the fine line tape, that just lightly pressed on. Of course for larger jobs, You would use masking paper.
The pic' is a Ulrich cast metal tanker and tractor that I used the same procedure as I explained above. Just washed the castings well and applied Floquil reefer white, which is very flat on first, dust coat, finish coat. Fine line tape, then yellow, which is Model master enamel, let sit three days and taped and put on the Red, MM also. After it set for a few hours I carefully removed the masking, peeling at an angle toward the seam, not away from it.
Take Care!
Frank
zstripe Mel, Looks to Me like the primer stuck well...the TCP paint seems like it didn't stick. Did You scuff the primer at all, before Your dust coat....You did start with a dust coat right? If You didn't that is part of Your problem. Any paint that comes of with masking did not adhere correctly to begin with. Also a fine 3m scuff pad would have helped. I mix Acryl paints and solvent all the time 1:1 and models and always scuff primer before dust coat, which is also important, if the other coats are to stick. I use 3m fine line tape when masking colors.....but I only burnish the edge where the fine line needs to be and just press on the other. I use Blue painter's tape to tape the rest on half the fine line tape, that just lightly pressed on. Of course for larger jobs, You would use masking paper.