Bought my first DCC/DC loco and ran it on my DC track. It seems that the power drops caused by the plastic frogs in my old Atlas snap switches cause confusion in the decoder. So I am thinking I need to change the Atlas snap switches to custom-line turnouts. But now I learned that the snap switches are not interchangeable with #4 custom-line turnouts. Is there any powered frog turnout that is interchangeable with a snap switch?
None that I am aware of. The Atlas 'Snap-Switches' have a continuous radius of 18" or 22" radius through the entire turnout. The Customline turnouts are laid out like prototype turnouts - They have a straight section throgh the frog area. BTW, the Atlas Customeline #4 turnout is really a #4.5 turnout!
The Customline turnouts have an insulated metal frog that can be powered with contacts from a turnout motor or 'frog juicer'. Both methods will add expense(and the Atlas switch machine really do not have the needed contacts).
Your DCC engine that is stalling going through your existing Snap-Switches - Is this just at slow speed? Most DCC engines have 'all wheel' pickup, and at least one of the trucks should be on 'live' track at all times. Make sure the track and wheels are really clean. DCC/Sound engines can be very picky with dirty track or wheels. Also, what brand and model DCC engine is this?
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Thanks Jim,
I have been cleaning the track and will check the wheels. It is new but it could have picked up some dirt. This happens at both slow and fast speeds. It is as though it hits so many breaks that it starts slowing down, plays breaking sound, smoke slows up, tries to start again, hits another break and does not know what to do next. If I stop it and let it sit a moment, it starts up fine, sounds good goes around the 6' X 12' loop and gets confused again. The faster I run it the longer it goes before the confusion starts again. The engine is a Broadway Limited Paragon 2 Hudson 4-6-4.
I have emailed Broadway and asked if they have a Keep Alive device I can install on the decoder. I am waiting for their answer.
Dave
I don't think the frogs are the problem. They are very small, and few locomotives would ever have more than one wheel at a time on them.
Snap-switches power the point rails through the small rivets that hold them in place. This usually works OK, but over time this connection can become intermittent. This will kill the power to the point rails, which are longer than the frogs. You can solder a small wire from the point rails to the fixed rails where they are attached to bridge the rivet.
There are several sprays available to clean electrical contacts as well. It's not a permanent fix, but it's quick and easy. Spray some on the rivets and wipe up the excess and see if that helps.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
You can use CRC Electrical Grade 2-26, plastic safe multi-purpose precision lubricant, improves electrical properties. Put some drops on the grommets and clean the point area where it touches the stock rails very good, then apply. Work the switch a few times, so it will soak into the grommet area's. That should work.....how long...I can't say without knowing Your layout conditions/environment. Also do not rely on railjoiners to supply power to the turnout, add feeder's if You can.
Take Care!
Frank
If you decide you really do need to change out the snap track turnouts, you could always make your own using PC ties and a filing jig from Fast Tracks, at least one NMRA track gauge plus a few lengths of flex track (needed for rail stock). I have read that the older 18" radius snap track turnouts have a frog angle nearer to #4.5 than #4 but a #4 filing jig should still get you close enough. If you carefully draw out the desired turnouts on a piece of paper (I'm sure you'll need both left and right turnouts), you can then make photocopies to use as build templates. I have done just this to make 22" radius diverging route turnouts, 22" radius "wye" turnouts and a couple of curved turnouts. Use a temporary glue to locate the necessary PC ties on the paper template, then lay out the various pieces of rail per the instructions in the Fast Tracks booklet (included with my order of PC ties and a #6 Frog/Point Rail filing jig). Be sure to check and re-check the track gauge throughout the build. With a little patience, you should be able to build much better operating turnouts that will simply drop into the existing trackwork in place of the old snap track turnouts.
Hornblower
You all have been so helpful and I have gotten some very good ideas. Thanks for all your help but I must confess, it was what we called "user error" in the telecommunications industry. It seems if you push the connector from the tender all the way into the loco, so it does not move as the train travels around the track it works much better. Thanks again for all the ideas. My track is cleaner than it has ever been and all the track is powered well. Now on to more DCC experiences!!
hornblower I have read that the older 18" radius snap track turnouts have a frog angle nearer to #4.5 than #4
You may be confusing two different components. Atlas Customline "#4s" are actually about a #4½. 18" radius SnapSwitch turnouts are significantly sharper than a #4 (closer to a 3½ or a little less to my eye)
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