I have often read that before applying decals it is necessary to apply clear gloss paint because the decals apply better to a gloss surface than a flat surface. But what I do not understand is this: Should I spay the whole model with clear gloss and after the decal sets spray the entire model again with clear flat paint? Or do I mask off the rest of the model and just apply the clear gloss to the small area I will be apply the decal to and then apply the clear flat to that same area?Also, if I only have to pay attention to the small area the decal will be applied to, then when applying the clear gloss or clear flat, is it always preferable to use my air brush or can I just use a regular brush?
Your suggestions are appreciated.
In my opinion, it is best to paint the model with gloss paint, I use Scalecoat, apply the decals, then use clear flat or clear satin on the entire model to get the desired finish.
Fewer steps - better results.
There is no way to be sure the decaled area will end up looking the same as the rest of the model if you just apply clear flat to that area.
Sheldon
If you want a nice clean decal then it's best to apply it to a glossy surface. But, if you are looking for a more weathered look, you can put the decal on a less-than-ideal surface and that will make it look older.
I usually just spray the surface where I'm putting the decals, generally the sides of a boxcar or tender. What you want to avoid is a surface that looks different from the surrounding surface.
I use rattle-can Krylon sprays for this. They are quick and require no cleanup. One can each of gloss, satin and flat will take care of all my clear-coating needs.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm in agreement with Sheldon. I've recently tackled a bunch of unpainted brass and a few plastic models that have been on my "to do" shelf for way too long.
I bought a selection of Scalecoat I and II directly from them and I'm very pleased with the results. A super gloss finish results and the decal takes to it beautifully.
http://www.weavermodels.com/page7.html
If I have a model that has a flat finish I try to find dry transfers if they're available otherwise you have to do the gloss/flat routine. If you are going to decal, say, the cab side, I would mask up to a corner and along the roof line then spray your gloss.
Do the decal work and lightly wash off the residue then very lightly cover with your matte or flat finish over the whole body. Keeping the windows masked, of course.
Some have used "Future" floor finish for the gloss. I bought a bottle but have yet to try it...
Use only distilled water for decaling and rinsing.
Good Luck, Ed
If you are decaling an entire piece after painting, then you would gloss (I perfer airbrushing) the entire car. Not many paint left these days that are not going on decal ready/ gloss, so this step can be omitted.
If only changing out/ relettering or renumbering, you can "spot" gloss w/ acrylic or Future Floor Finish just brushed on.The final overcoating of clear will hide the glossed edges and seal the decal. Many factory finishes can take a decal directly, especially if in lighter colors. Some dark colors or a dull finish will need gloss to prevent any "silvering"
I am decaling 5 of the Walther's Capital limited cars right now, and am spot glossing the name and/ or number embosses on the simulated stainless paint, doesn't appear to be glossy enough and don't want to take chances.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I have the Walther's Milwaukee Road passenger cars. So if I spray the whole car with clear gloss, what happens to the windows? Should I remove them first or mask them?
I should also point out that my first decal project is to put numbering on a logging caboose and some logging cars, so I can take some risks on these as they are meant to look rough.
For full decal-type lettering, I airbrush the car's sides and ends with clear gloss (no masking necessary), wait until that has cured (at least 24 hours) then apply the decals. The next day (or later), I again give the decaled car another coat of gloss, as often the glossy decal isn't the same degree of gloss as the car, and then, as soon as it's dry to the touch, a coat of flat finish. This seems to give a more uniform finish which also better-hides the decal film. That's followed-up with weathering, but no clear finish over that - in my opinion, it lessens the realism of the weathering.
For spot decaling, such as re-weigh and re-pack data, I dispense with the gloss finish altogether - usually, the areas being decaled have been masked-off before the car received its initial weathering or the same area is decaled with a patch of decal painted in a colour similar to that of the car.After the re-stencilled data has been added, I use a brush to apply some thinned Dullcote - one quick pass does it....more will begin to dissolve the lettering. Depending on the re-weigh date, more weathering may be added.
Wayne