With the dificulty of finding the Floquil paint anymore. What are folks using for the Mineral Red that Santa Fe painted thier cabooses in the steam era? I bought a brass one I need to paint. Thanks in advance. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
Mike,
Here is a Floquil cross referance chart for various paint Mfg's. About all the Old Floquil color's and their substitute's are on this chart.
It is a PDF file, give time to load and keep it for Your referance.
http://www.microscale.com/Floquil%20Color%20Chart.pdf
Take Care!
Frank
Sent you a private message Mike ....
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Look for "Mineral Brown," but Mike probably clued you in.
Deano
Not a perfect match, but Scalecoat Boxcar Red (SCII 20132) would work.
I've used it for my G scale D&RGW caboose kitbashes and other G scale D&RGW freight equipment. Just note that it dries glossy for decals and requires a dull coat.
I'm not so sure that Model Masters Rust (as listed in that comparison) would be that good a color. And to be honest, Floquil Santa Fe Mineral Brown wasn't perfect for an ATSF caboose either (pre Indian Red days). In color photos, an ATSF Mineral Brown caboose seemed to be more of a chocolate brown then red brown. Intermountain did a very good job replicating this color on their HO models.
Here's a pic of my Intermountain ATSF caboose (circa 1959):
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
I find it's best to look at the colour of the paint rather than its name, and if you can't find one which you feel is right, simply mix your own.
Wayne
doctorwayne I find it's best to look at the colour of the paint rather than its name, and if you can't find one which you feel is right, simply mix your own. Wayne
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain doctorwayne I find it's best to look at the colour of the paint rather than its name, and if you can't find one which you feel is right, simply mix your own. Wayne That is a lot easier said than done. Rich
doctorwayne
We have one local shop that does have a decent selection of the old paint, I will check there first, then look at other options. Caboose will be in my posession later this week. Mike
doctorwayne richhotrain doctorwayne I find it's best to look at the colour of the paint rather than its name, and if you can't find one which you feel is right, simply mix your own. Wayne That is a lot easier said than done. Rich I disagee, Rich. If you have a sense of what colour is wrong or right among those which are close, then you likely have a sense of how to correct at least some of the ones which you feel are wrong. If you don't have that sense of colour, then how can you say that one is wrong or right? Too many of us underestimate that of which we are capable, with the result that we don't even bother to try. Wayne
Lets' say it takes 5 different colors in a 12:6:3:2:1 mix. Even using an eyedropper to achieve that mix, it takes one heckuva lot of trial and error and wasted paint to find that proper mix.
Perhaps some mixes will be complicated, but I've found most to be pretty simple if you start with the colour you feel to be closest. You should be able to tell just by looking at it what colour(s) need to be added, and you can get a rough approximation of that using drops from a brush - no need to rinse it out, simply wipe the brush when changing colours. Once you get close, refine the proportions/drops into a repeatable formula. In many cases, we're painting stuff that hasn't existed for years, and basing our preferences on colours from books or old photos - who's to say which colour in which photo is the correct one? When the modeller finds the colour which he feels to be correct, who can, with any authority, say that it's wrong? Some retired railroader who saw those cars every day and "remembers" a different shade?I can show you pictures of the same locomotives painted in company colours, one of which, on any given day, could appear maroon (as it supposedly was), or boxcar red, boxcar brown, or just plain brown, or even a shade of purple - this is in-person and in photos, too. I've mixed paint that matched a photo which matched what I saw on the day when I took the photo - matched it well enough that it wasn't visible when painted onto the photograph unless it was turned to catch the light in a way which revealed the flat finish of the paint. The same loco, photographed on a different day might appear to be a totally different colour, and neither colour might look like what it's supposed to be, but all are "correct". I'd guess that many model paints purporting to represent a specific prototype's colour are fairly accurate, but if an individual modeller thinks that they're not, and that other brands' versions of the same colour are also unsuitable, then the only choice is to mix your own. Be prepared, though, for a visiting modeller to comment (tactfully, I hope) on your choice of colour, as he has a "more accurate" version.
Wayne, I understand your point of view, and I don't really disagree with it. If your project is to paint an unpainted item from scratch, certainly mixing your own will work.
What I had in mind was the problem with matching an existing paint job such as when adding detail parts or repair work.
To the OP, if you have something that is already the color that you want to paint, take it to a paint store, and have them laser match the color in a pint or quart can in acrylic (water based paint).
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
richhotrain...What I had in mind was the problem with matching an existing paint job such as when adding detail parts or repair work.
Well, for a model representing something fairly new or newly painted, yeah, it would be preferable to have a good match. However, adding parts to a model already in service (and weathered to appear as such), there's no need to get too fussy, as a new part may be painted as if it actually were new, either in a closely- or not so closely-matching colour or even a different one. For example, I add metal details to all of my locomotives and much of my rolling stock, but details like that are vulnerable to paint damage - especially the rolling stock, which cycles between the layout and its storage boxes. Since I seldom use colours right out of the bottle, trying to match paint on a couple dozen freight cars in various versions of boxcar red wouldn't be practical, but it's also not necessary. When a grabiron loses some of its paint (easily done when stored in a box designed for cars with low-relief details which are cast-in-place) that now shiny grab is considered to be damaged. On the prototype, regardless of which road owns that car, the road on which it is damaged must repair it, as it's considered to be a safety appliance. Well, my shop's supply of boxcar red doesn't match that of all foreign roads, but, since it's all we have, that's what the workers slap on the repaired area. Those details don't match, but they're perfectly prototypical.Paint which is somewhat "off" in colour compared to the item requiring touch-up can also be used to impart a suggestion of history to our trains. Some manufacturers (very few) do note the brand and colour of paint used on their offerings, but even then, colour mixes can change or be discontinued.I guess that the point which I was originally trying to make is that if you can tell, or feel, that a paint isn't "right" for the job you wish to do, then you need to either mix that colour or settle for whatever is available. I think that anyone who is able to discern the difference between two colours purporting to represent the same colour of a particular prototype should also be able to match their impression of what the colour should be, either by starting with one of the not-quite-right commercially-available versions or completely from scratch. Most of us are reluctant to try - I'm not necessarily saying that it's easy (although it can be) but if you can see these differences, you have the tools to correct what you feel is wrong. The more you do this, the easier it becomes.
LOL
Wayne, I am afraid that I unleashed a firestorm given the length of your most recent reply.
The only reason that I commented in the first place was in reply to your comment, "simply mix your own". My point, at least the point that I had hoped to convey, was that trying to mix your own to match is not necessarily "simple".
Not everyone weathers their rolling stock and not everyone is trying to match a color that has been weathered. Case in point. I have an unweathered Proto 2000 C&NW diesel, and I had to replace a set of broken/missing horns. I had the exact replacement, but I wanted to match the C&NW Dark Green roof of the cab. I finally succeeded, but I assure you, the mixing and matching process was not "simple".
Hi,
NOTE: AOL MAIL IS DOWN THIS MORNING !!!
I've painted a number of ATSF pre 60s cabooses, and in checking the paint I used......... well, it is Floquil F110176 ATSF RED. I used most of one bottle, and am looking at an unopen one as I write.
There are a ton of "boxcar red/browns" out there, and I suggest getting a bottle of whatever you can find and comparing. You may want to mix to match. And of course, a bit of weathering and Dull-Cote will help blend it in just right.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
MM44,
I sent you a PM.
Hey, Rich, never a firestorm from me....maybe a word avalanche, though. My use of the word "simply" was intended to convey the thought that it's just one of those "do it" things. I'm not saying that you'll get the results you want on your first try, and you may never get an exact match for some colours, but if you don't make an effort, you're guaranteed to fail.