As I look at what engine I will buy once one I have for sale sells. I have a nicely painted and weathered PFM/United ATSF 2-10-2 I can get for under 275. It runs nicely where as the Westside Sierra 2-8-0 had issues that need to resolved. This engine wouldnt be for my home layout, although I might "stage" it on future main line connection when I build it. I want it more for the club layout. I am curious how well these pull or can pull with extra ballest. Thanks Mikie
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
I have one that I converted some years ago to a "kinda/sorta" Rio Grande F-81. With that said, you probably wouldn't need much "ballast" as those Japanese PFM models were pretty well weighted. You might want to adjust weighting for balance, but other than that, you'll have a good-running puller. Minimum radius for the loco is about 24"--could probably squeeze around a 22" slow and careful. If it has its original Pittman open-frame motor, you might want to think of replacing the magnet with Rare Earth magnets from Micromark. It will improve the slow speed response immensely and smooth out the speed range, also. I've had mine pull 25-plus cars up my 2% grades with little wheel slippage. Quite good locomotives IMO. The only reason I 'customized' mine (purely cosmetic) was that I model Rio Grande instead of Santa Fe, and both locos had deck-mounted Elesco FWH systems and 63" drivers with an identical wheelbase.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Thanks for the response Tom, I just did the rare earth magnets upgrade to my PFM Santa Fe 2-8-0 and its a night and day differance, she pulls only 1/2 amp with a 12 car train at 10 volts, and just under 3/4 amp with me holding her from moving and the drivers slipping. Who says you need a can motor to get good performance. I used 5 magnets with a small sliver of metal to make up the extra space. I got a tube with enough for several motors for $30 to my door roughly. Thanks again. Mike
emdmike ....I am curious how well these pull or can pull with extra ballest....
I'd guess quite a bit, if the weight is balanced.I rebuilt an old Akane 2-10-2 for a friend (a previous owner had installed a can motor), and in addition to re-detailing it, I added weight and balanced it, too. The locomotive (without tender) weighs 32oz., and will pull a 100oz. train (12 loaded hoppers and a caboose) up a 2.5% grade laid out on an "S"-curve of 34"radii. The compensation for a 34" radius is 1.22%, and while the entire train is in both curves for only a short time, that's the equivalent of 5.94%.
There's the full story of the rebuild here: bigbluetrains
Be warned, though, there are lots of photos.
Wayne
Quite the rebuild but WOW is my reaction on seeing the last pictures of her running on the layout. Our club layout is eastern prototype based, mostly around the old Clinchfield RR. But eastern prototype brass engines fetch a premium price around here. Plus I am a fan of the Santa Fe and have several engines already. I should know in another day or so if I will have the funds to purchase the engine I am looking at. Mike
Mike:
Those little PFM Santa Fe 1950's were one of the most popular brass locos ever produced. It was actually the first brass loco I ever owned back in the 1960's and it's still running on my layout as "borrowed" power. Like you, I converted the magnets to Micromark about a year ago and it's like I breathed new life into the little girl, lol!
I swear by those Micromark rare-earth magnets--I've converted a great deal of my older brass open-frame motors and the results have been just short of spectacular, lol. You're right--you really don't need only a can motor to get excellent response through the speed ranges. Some older brass I had with "coffee-grinder" gear noise has become smooth and quiet. I can't recommend those magnets highly enough.