Painting Buildings: Water Based Acrylics?

[djwhite2710]

Hello -

 

I am really starting to try and paint buildings for a future layout (someday). I do not have an airbrush and based on my housing situation, its not an option.

MY question is, I am having problems with paint adhesion and brush marks while painting. I have tried water-based acylics as well as the testors and model master enamels. While the enamels hold up better, I am still running into paint adhesion and brush mark issues.

Does anybody have any best practices on how to effectively brush paint with water based acrylics on plastic?

[MisterBeasley]

Wash the surface with soap and water before you paint.  This will help with adhesion.  Thin the paint and use multiple coats.  Thinner paint will settle and not leave brush strokes as readily.

I use rattle-can spray paint.  I do it outside, or in the garage if necessary.  Krylon and Rustoleum products work very well and don't hurt the plastic used in most models.

[mbinsewi]

The first thing you need to do, after the basic building is assembled, is wash it very good with something like a tooth brush and soap and water.  I use Dawn. You need to get all of the finger smudges, and factory molding residue off before paint will stick.  I've used various products to thin acrylic hobby paints, from distilled water, 70% alcohol, and even tried windowing cleaning stuff with amonia.  Most times, the distilled water worked the best.  I've even had good results airbrushing, once properly thinned.  I think the best results came from thinning with the distilled water, and getting the mix just to the right consistancy, so the brush marks "flow" out.  You also need a decent quality soft bristle brush.  I've also read where some have had good luck by applying a "dulcoat" on the surface first, as this gives the paint a better finish to stick to.

I think these basic ideas will work with any type of paint you use.

I hope this helps!

Mike.

EDIT:  Mr. Beasley posted as I was typing, but I agree with what he has told you.

[ctyclsscs]

I've had prety good results brush painting buildings, but it seems to work better if you can give the buildings a light coat of a flat spray paint. It gives the paint something to stick to as Mike said about Dullcote. But I usually use any cheap spray paint in a can. Light greys and beige colors seem to work the best for me.

Even then, I may have to brush on two coats if I want a really even finish. If you're going to heavily weather it, then it may not matter as much.

Jim

[georgev]

Another consideration is the brand of paint.  I have brushed on Modelflex  without using a primer and without leaving brush marks (after proper cleaning, as stated by others). 

I have used better quality craft paints but those required a primer (from a rattle can) to adhere well, and also required multiple coats of thinned paint to get good coverage without brush marks. 

The type of plastic can make a difference too.  Some seem to be more slippery and can require a primer coat even with good quality modeling paint. 

George V.

[peahrens]

Like others I wash plastic with soap and water then lightly spray with model primer. I thin the $1 acrylic a bit and may need two coats or touchup. If brick I add a wash for mortar. When dry add gray or black washes for light weathering. Then dullcoat. Then window glaze.

[mlehman]

Getting things clean is real important to paint adhesion, especially after humans have had their greasy mitts  all over a model building it. The a good primer is a big help. DullCote will work, but can be a bit expensive depending on how big your structures are.

I'll suggest using something called Zinser 1-2-3. It's a spray primer (I think it comes in brushable cans, too, but I spray it) that is plastic compatible.  I started using it when I was using foam to build mountain backgrounds I wanted to spray paint. Most spray paint will aggressively attack and melt foam, so ordinarily you don't want to even try this. Once primed with 1-2-3, you can spray it with just about anything you can find and the primer protects the foam underneath.

Since you didn't say you're adverse to spray cans, just that an airbrush won't work with your current housing, maybe you have an outdoor or other area where you can spray paint? Use a flat paint (or 1-2-3) to prime it all as a base coat/color. Then the fancy paint will stick much better as you finish things.

If you buildings are plastic and you plan to light them, don't forget to spray or brush the inside flat black or other dark color to avoid shine through.

[zstripe]

Djwhite2710,

To The Forums.

You have already been given some good advice, if I may add a point that was already given, but often overlooked....don't skimp on Your brushes. For a good brush paint job invest in some Artist brushes, they may cost more, but in the long run, could last forever with proper care and cleaning. Camel hair, Red Sable and Sable brushes are about the best. Look for also Golden Eagle brushes, they are a little cheaper, but do a fantastic job. For large surfaces, use a flat brush, 1/4, 1/2, not a pointed brush for better results.

I do a lot of brush painting and air-brushing, many year's. Stay away from plastic bristle brushes and so called soft bristle synthetic's, they are not worth it and it show's.....brush marks.

Take Care! 

Frank

[Southwest Chief]

Like others have posted here;

For plastic buildings, I wash them with dish detergent and then, after fully dried of course, spray with a very light coat of light gray primer.  Then it is super easy to brush paint with water based paints. 

I use Dawn Ultra (the green one) to clean plastic buildings prior to painting.  It's what I use to clean in the kitchen and I find it works great on plastic buildings too as it leaves no residue or soapy smell.

For primer, I use Rust-Oleum light gray auto primer.  Just be sure to spray light quick coats and keep the spray can a good distance from the building.  Otherwise the primer can get thick quickly, and that is bad news for smaller scale buildings like HO.

Once the building has been primed, I prefer to paint buildings with craft paints you can find at Michaels and other craft stores.  Folk Art and Apple Barrel being my favorite brands.  Martha Stewart Crafts Paint has a few colors I like to use as well.  Compared to model paint, craft paints are cheap, easy to brush paint, have a good amount of paint per bottle, and a nice color palate to chose from.

Most of the older buildings on my layout were painted with Floquil paints, but these newer plastic buildings on my HO layout were washed, primed, and then brush painted with craft paints:

[ndbprr]

Keep the brush wet. Before dipping in the paint stick it in water and just touch the tip to a paper towell to remove the excess then dip it in the paint. It will go on much smoother.

[germanium]

 I used a similar artists primer called "gesso", with satisfactory results.

Dennis

 

[riogrande5761]

Clean yes, and don't use a brush - spray, either with a rattle can, or better yet, get a decent modest quality air brush.  

[djwhite2710]

Thanks guys, a lot of great suggestions here. I will have to try them and see what works best for me. I appreciate it.

[Capt. Grimek]

Brushing new/wet paint back towards/onto existing paint helps to reduce or eliminate brush marks. I've had excellent results hand brushing Model Master Acrylics with no brush marks and I'm not super experienced...yet.

Jim