This is so frustrating, currently building the HO Cornerstone Grocery Distributor building. I have had good luck in the past with setting decals and the heavier Walthers decals, not this time.
I laid walls down flat and applied decals and used solvaset over the decals to get then to set down tight. They immediately started wrinkling, this morning they looked terrible so I removed some and am trying to save two of them. The decals are quite large so I think that is part of the problem.
Any suggestions or comments on what I done wrong?
Thanks, Martin.
I assume you are using Walthers Solvaset as your setting solution? That is a pretty potent setting solution, and will dissolve thinner decals, such as those by Microscale. It is possible that the current Walthers decals are not as thick as in the past, and that the Solvaset is too powerful for them. I suggest you try a three-part approach. First, brush some Microscale Micro-Set onto the model surface where you want to place the decal. Slide the decal in position, and if needed, add a little more Micro-Set. Wait for this to dry. Apply Microscale Micro-Sol over the decal, overlapping the edges so that it is drawn under the decal by the brick morter lines on the building. Allow this to dry. You may wish to slit any parts of the decal that aren't down yet, and then apply more Micro-Sol. Finally, use the Walthers Sovaset to get any stubborn portions of the decals down.
Good Luck,
Greg
basementdweller This is so frustrating, currently building the HO Cornerstone Grocery Distributor building. I have had good luck in the past with setting decals and the heavier Walthers decals, not this time. I laid walls down flat and applied decals and used solvaset over the decals to get then to set down tight. They immediately started wrinkling, this morning they looked terrible so I removed some and am trying to save two of them. The decals are quite large so I think that is part of the problem. Any suggestions or comments on what I done wrong? Thanks, Martin.
Greg, I appreciate your suggestions, and I will certainly try a new method on another model waiting to be done. My observation was that the Walthers decals are thicker than what I have seen before From Walthers. I was using Walthers Solvaset which I knew was strong stuff but never been a problem before, I knew it was too strong for thinner decals.
I was able to remove one decal without tearing it after it dried overnight- what does that tell you, reapplied it and it has wrinkled again. There is no salvaging any of them so time to remove them all. Grrrr.
Appreciate the feedback, does Walthers offer replacement decals????? Time to call them.
Martin, calling Walthers is a good idea! I've been dealing with them for 50 years and they've certainly always been customer friendly, old school. I'm sure they'll be more than willing to work with you--and probably even give you valuable information on using their products. They always have, since back when Willy K. and Al Kalmbach were good buddies.
Deano
mm very interusting i wondering if i'm going to have same problem. see i'm almost finish walthers Cornerstone valley growers grain elevator and going to apply there decal on it. now in past like for walther oil pump i cut the decal out and just glue it on. but this time around i want to for frist time do what they say instructions. like dip decal in water for 10 seconds then remove and let it stand for 1 minute, slide decal on to suface, position and then blot of and excess water. i just have to find micro-sol in hobby store seem it hard to fine.
With respect to Walthers, back in the 1990's a good friend of mine warned me about using Walthers Solvaset on modern decals. Solvaset can be quite "potent" with today's more fragile decals.
Not being a pitchman for Microscale, but I've had zero problems using Microsol and Microset for ALL decal work and will use it for my Cornerstone and DPM structures kits.
Along with a spray can of Testor's Dullcote, I have an unopened bottle of Solvaset that's been sitting on my paint shelf for years. Haven't used it yet, but I have it as a "stand by" in the event I do use old-run decals that are on the thick side.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Over the years, I've found that I get my best results by using a variety of strengths of decal setting solution, starting with just a wetting agent, and moving up to stronger solutions as necessary until the decal is the way I want it.
I'll usually apply a setting solution before quitting for the evening, then assess the results the next day. If it needs more help, I make another application of either the same stuff, or the next stronger solution I use, then wait until it dries again.
This keeps me from messing around with the decal too much while it is wet, since I've ruined a few sets by not giving the setting solution the chance to do its job. It may end up taking me longer to do it this way, but the error is on the side of caution, and I get much more consistently good results.
I've summed up my approach to decaling in a hint sheet that I've put up on my decal site. The hint sheet is at http://www.fritzmilhaupt.com/decals/decalingtips.pdf
-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.http://www.pmhistsoc.org
While we're talking about "setting" decals, does an added coat of sealing older decal film have any affect on the solvent properties of a setting solution?
Have had older decals, even from Microscale that cracked into many pieces as they were applied, never mind "hittting" them w/ solvent, which would have a wrinkled disaster. Also when I need to use a stronger solution (Solvaset), I hold the surface angled and allow the Solvaset to run over the film, never allow it to pool. This could have been part of your troubles.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Solvaset is alcohol. Get some distilled water & a few small bottles & make 2 0r more dilutions. start with the weakest first & work your way up. No need to purchase different products.
jerryl Solvaset is alcohol. Get some distilled water & a few small bottles & make 2 0r more dilutions. start with the weakest first & work your way up. No need to purchase different products.
Where did you get Solvaset is alcohol ?
According to the MSDS sheet for Solvaset. it is made by Dow and its base component (>99.5%) is Propylene glycol monomethyl ether. The other two components (<0.3%) are 1-Propanol, 2 methoxy-.
According to the sheet, the Dow product name is : DOWANOL™ PM GLYCOL ETHER.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I've had problems with a number of Walthers decal sheets. I've picked up the kits in a variety of places, including from Walthers itself via my LHS. These all behave like very old decal sheets. I've tried a few restorative techniques, but I've never been happy with them.
What you might try is scanning the decals and then re-printing them on decal paper. There's always the problem with getting white to work, but you can paint a white background on the model and then apply clear-background decals to restore the color balance.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
There's an older technique that you could try. Scan the decals in, but, print them out on good-quality paper. Cut out the sign you want, turn it over, and use sand paper to sand the decal to tissue-paper thiness. Coat with glue (I use 3M Glue Sticks), apply to where you want it on the building, and then burnish it down using a tool designed for the job, such as Micro-Mark sells: http://www.micromark.com/5-piece-burnishing-set,7976.html
The advantage here is that you can take pictures of actual signs and use them, use signs that were printed in magazines in years past, decals included with the model, or design your own in paint or photoshop.
MisterBeasley I've had problems with a number of Walthers decal sheets. I've picked up the kits in a variety of places, including from Walthers itself via my LHS. These all behave like very old decal sheets. I've tried a few restorative techniques, but I've never been happy with them. What you might try is scanning the decals and then re-printing them on decal paper. There's always the problem with getting white to work, but you can paint a white background on the model and then apply clear-background decals to restore the color balance.