Central Valley switch kit

[big daydreamer]

I have a Central Valley kit to make a #8 left hand switch.  Reading through the instructions, there are references to pictures that seem to be missing from the package.  There is also nothing that helps me identify all the parts.  

Does anyone have the pictures that I seem to be missing? or else can help me through this project?  It's my first time with this kit 

[steemtrayn]

You could just buy another kit and hope it has all the paperwork.

[zstripe]

Big Daydreamer,

I'm sure these people will help You with any questions You may have.....If You contact them.....they do have support: Click on link.

http://www.cvmw.com/turnouts.htm

Take Care! 

Frank

[gmpullman]

Here's a link to MB Klein where you can zoom in to the three sprues.

I just happened to have it in my cart. If I'm not mistaken it is intended to detail an existing turnout not actually "build" one.

[edit] I'm mistaken, we are talking about two different kits after I looked at their site that Frank provided.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Central-Valley-HO-Switch-Detailing-Parts-p/cvm-1603.htm?CartID=1

Included in the package are the following items: 3x Animated Switch Stands. 24x Rail bolt bars. 42x Rail braces. 12x Frog Bolt Bars (long). 6x Code 70 guard rails. 6x Code 83 guard rails. 6x CVT throw bar (for use with 2600 - 2900 switch tie blocks). 6x CVT Point retainer plates (for use with CVT cast points). 3x CVT Head tie Block (for use with 2600 - 2900 switch tie blocks).

Perhaps this will help others identify what you are looking at.

This link is from a 2009 thread about CVT switch kits. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/158780.aspx

http://www.westportterminal.de/H0-USA/turnout_1e.html

 

Ed

[big daydreamer]

gmpullman,

The product you linked to is exactly what came in my kit (except your thing had three of them).  I can figure out what the parts are now.

One thing that I am not sure about is what "hook" needs to be removed from the point castings.  It also says, "There is a small hole in the hook-pivot detail of the point.  These holes are provided for attaching feeder wires."

So which tabs do I remove?  Looking at the last picture, it seems like I need to remove the middle tab and the stick at the end (where they join to the closure rails).  Is this correct?

Here are some pictures:

Point rail outside (non-diverging one)

Point rail inside

Both point rails

Possible alignment

[wp8thsub]

big daydreamer

One thing that I am not sure about is what "hook" needs to be removed from the point castings.  It also says, "There is a small hole in the hook-pivot detail of the point.  These holes are provided for attaching feeder wires."

So which tabs do I remove?  Looking at the last picture, it seems like I need to remove the middle tab and the stick at the end (where they join to the closure rails).  Is this correct?

CVT point castings in the #8 kit are intended for use with both the #6 and #8.  They have two sets of hooks/tabs cast onto the bottom.  For a #6, the casting is shortened, and the hook on one end is cut off.  For a #8, the whole length of the casting is used, and the hook in the middle is removed.

The hook fits into a slot in the tie strip where the point and closure rail meet, and once assembled into the tie strip acts as a hinge.  You can solder a small feeder/jumper wire into the hole in the casting for powering the point, and it will be hidden.

There are numerous weaknesses in the kit parts and instructions.  The foil strip intended to make contact between the stock rails and closure rails is just a bad idea.  Forget it and use feeders.  Ignore the instructions on frog assembly and solder the frog point before installation into the frog block.  Each kit includes a template, so I spike frog rails to it while soldering, then cut them to length before inserting into the frog block.

Lastly, the throwbar is a very poor design.  I figured out a durable substitute fabricated from styrene as described here http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/9168 .  It takes less time than using the kit parts and works better.

This #8 crossover was built from CVT kits.  Note the extra gaps between the closure rails and frog which I located at the edge of the frog block casting.  These prevent back-to-back wheel shorting which can occur at the frog if built per the instructions.

Once you get past some of the bad ideas in the kit, these can be great turnouts.  I've been pleased with mine.

[big daydreamer]

Nice work! The link to your older post was very useful.

Thanks to all for your help.

[wp8thsub]

I forgot to mention in my post above - what you called the "stick at the end" of the point casting also needs to be removed.  It's sprue material from the casting process.  

For some reason the photos of the kit parts weren't showing up in your post when I replied earlier, but are there now, and reminding me of how these things go together.  The point castings always need some filing.  Ensure they fit properly against the stock rails, and file as necessary to ensure a smooth pathway for flanges.  Sometimes the top corners require some attention to create a sharper edge where the point touches the stock rail.