http://www.pwrs.ca/announcements/view.php?ID=9412
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
If you can't figure out basic circuits with LEDs, it's a great thing. Otherwise, I am sure it will be too much. Considering they want $19.95 for a 12V 1amp wall wart.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ya, ten bucks for two LEDs. Wow!
Let's face it, the idea of soldering LEDs and figuring out resistors scares some people. I think this is a good product idea. Like many WS products, it doesn't provide a whole lot of benefit for the seasoned modeler, but it can help beginners get started.
I'm sure they will have a big display at the Amherst show in January, and I'll be sure to check it out.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
I know that I COULD build such a lighting system myself, but I am intrigued by the apparent intensity controls.
And its something I'm not particularly interested in spending a lot of time to do. One of the reasons I haven't tackled it is that I'd have to design a system of lights that can be removed from their power supply so the buildings can be removed. Might be one of those times where More Expensive Product X saves enough labor to make it worthwhile so I can use that time on Other Projects.
Nittany Lion, I agree. Sometimes it's worth it to just get the layout (sort of) finished before we shed our mortal coils.
Jim
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
What do they mean by "DCC compatible?" It looks like they are saying you can somehow plug this into your DCC power supply instead of a wall wart. I am not a big fan of tapping off DCC power for accessory lighting.
To me, "DCC compatible" indicates that it can be controlled by DCC, not simply piggybacked off it for power. Now, if this system had accessory decoders built in so you could control structure lights from your throttle, it might have some applications.
Finally, how long are the wires to the LEDs? If you're going to end up splicing in extensions to reach the structures, you're back to soldering anyway.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The same type of plug used by that system is available from many locations - often used to provide a way to disconnect shell-mounted lights in locos so you cna completely remove the shell from the chassis. So, one end on the layout side of the wiring, one end on the building - easy lift-off building with power run to it. If the building is large enough, or has a blocked off central area that can fit it, phone plugs are easier to connect/disconnect and more robust. Just lots bigger. If you need multiple circuits, there's always connectors like DIN connectors, or grab surplus USB cables. An extension, which is male to female, cut in the middle to access the wires would work well.
MisterBeasley:
The LED leads are 24" long and there are extensions available that are 48" long. By the look of the plugs you could put additional extensions together but there is no indication of how far you could go before current loss becomes an issue.
I think the system is great for those who are unable, for whatever reason, to wire their own lighting effects. Cost will be a limiting factor for many people. Not all the components are showing prices yet but if they are asking $19.99 for a wall wart and $9.99 for two LEDs things will probably get pricey rather quickly. The LED prices are not actually that far out to lunch when you consider that pre-wired polarity neutral LEDs with resistors run around $3.25 each and you still have to solder the connections. However, by the time you max out the wall wart at 50 LEDs you will have spent $250.00 on LEDs alone!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Santa Fe all the way!
I was referring to a specific North American supplier for the pre-wired LEDs. Their units are polarity neutral meaning that it doesn't matter which wire gets connected to the positive or negative. However, you are right, prewired LEDs with resistors are available for much less.
Perhaps I am a little paranoid, but I will pass on the $5.00 wall warts unless they are ULC and UW approved, which the offshore units may or may not be. Maybe I am wrong on this but I would hate to have my insurance company reject my claim because my house burned down thanks to an unapproved electronic appliance.
hon30critter wisely wrote: Maybe I am wrong on this but I would hate to have my insurance company reject my claim because my house burned down thanks to an unapproved electronic appliance.
Maybe I am wrong on this but I would hate to have my insurance company reject my claim because my house burned down thanks to an unapproved electronic appliance.
I'd hate to have my house burn down for any reason. That's another good excuse for putting all your wall-warts and other power supplies on outlet strips and turning them off when you're done running trains.
I would spend the money on a decent DMM then buy bulk LEDs on ebay or Christmas lights.
If a person has the skill and tools to wire track power they should be able to wire lighing with no problem.
Have fun with your trains