So some scale die-cast construction equipment models I ordered arrived*, wheeled excavators. Along with some previous models I have, I checked for prototype imagery, and found I will need lots of hydraulic lines (I more or less knew this before).As is evident, the lines will cross the articulated joints on the arm, mostly to enter the hydraulic pistons.Searching back, while we did discuss air-hoses between truck-tractors and trailers (coiled wire was a consensus), construction equipment hydraulic lines didn't seem to be covered.1) Anyone here add lines to their construction equipment (HO scale preferably)2) What did you use (final workable solution only please, no failed experiments)3) Did mounting the lines involve more than drilling a hole in the bottom of the pistion and CA'ing the hose in?
Hopefully this image of a Case prototype links to give you an idea of what I am looking for:
* This is the new lot that showed up in the recent Walthers Flyers on Sale (2 bucks off the MSRP IIRC), so since I was ordering other items from Walthers I said what the heck. The models are OK, on the par with earlier construction equipment models I ordered. "Simplified" models, the paint work is a bit sloppy and needs to be touched up, and the articulation is so-so. I got the CASE WX185 Wheeled Excavator, and 2 New Holland WE170 Wheeled Excavators, which will be used for scrap-yard duty. Make sure you get them on sale. Brand may or may not be Hobby and Work, the box labels just state "Case Construction" or "New Holland Construction"
Solid copper #24 or #26 Telephone switch box cable. Strip off plastic insulation where not needed,leave on at joints Bends easy, holds it shape, can be painted. Drill a small hole stick a drop of CA on wire, insert wire. Use copper wire on all my detailed models. Got a whole bunch free, from a telephone guy, years ago.
Take Care!
Frank
Try rubber bands. They like to be moved and maintain a natural sag. Just make sure you get high quality ones so they don't dry out and crumble. Orthodontist ones work best. I have never known an Orthodontist or Dentist that didn't throw me a bag for free when I ask for some.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
zstripeSolid copper #24 or #26 Telephone switch box cable. Strip off plastic insulation where not needed,leave on at joints Bends easy, holds it shape, can be painted. Drill a small hole stick a drop of CA on wire, insert wire. Use copper wire on all my detailed models.
The rubber band suggestion I really don't understand...
I used the insulation from the wire of grain-of-wheat bulbs, although it may be somewhat oversize. It did slip nicely onto the wire fittings on the cylinders of my Walthers Jordan spreader, and is nicely flexible. Click on the photos a couple of times to get an enlargement, as the "hoses" are somewhat difficult to see - the guys in the paint department ran out of masking tape.
Wayne
Wayne,
Great idea for the hoses....hopefully you have an opti-visor, I have trouble just stripping them.
Chutton01,
I believe ''bell wire'' is considered #18 gauge. But the colored stripe wire is the stuff, I use. Something like 30 wires in a cable. I probably have enough for three life times. I use Floquil paint for the wire, seems to hold up well. Yeah! I'm a hoarder on Floquil paint.