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Bevel cuts?

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  • Member since
    May 2012
  • 602 posts
Bevel cuts?
Posted by NP01 on Monday, June 16, 2014 8:03 AM

How do you make bevel cuts (Hope this is what they are called) in say foam or balsa? I want to cut a balsa square (wall of a small building) but two of the edges need to be at 45 degrees so that they can be connected to another wall at 90 degrees. The Midwest products cork comes cut like this- at the place you separate it. 

The materials I am interested in cutting are 1/4" white packaging foam (I use this for platforms and structures) and 3/16" and 1/8" balsa wood sheets. 

NP

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Stow, OH - originally Boston
  • 177 posts
Posted by Paul D on Monday, June 16, 2014 8:14 AM

I use a low cost yellow plastic mitrebox from Home Depot. It's 4" inside dimension, which would enable you to cut a 29 foot high wall at a 45 degree bevel on the end. I use a fine tooth hacksaw blade without the handle. I wouldn't remodel a kitchen with it, but should be fine for what you describe. Readily available in the tool dept for cheap money.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Stow, OH - originally Boston
  • 177 posts
Posted by Paul D on Monday, June 16, 2014 8:28 AM

here ya go:  http://www.homedepot.com/s/mitre%2520box?NCNI-5 . You'd use the right end for your bevel cuts. $5.98.

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • 743 posts
Posted by Steven S on Monday, June 16, 2014 11:15 AM

I think he's talking about beveling the edge.  You can buy bevel cutters at Michael's and Dick Blick.  Just do a Google search on Bevel Cutter.

I made my own for making RC planes using a scrap piece of wood cut at a 45 degree bevel.  It sometimes wanders a bit.   I have no idea how well it would work on balsa.

 

 

 

ETA: Here's another one I made for cutting right along the edge. 

 

Steve S

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,706 posts
Posted by zstripe on Monday, June 16, 2014 11:37 AM

Steve S,

Should work really well on flat sheet Balsa. If he is going with the grain, not across it. I do it all the time, with a similar tool like you show. But I use a metal fence, not an edge for the tool.

I use the Z series #11 Xacto blades. Zirconium Nitrate coated Blades, that's their sharpest most durable blade. Cost more...but worth it.

Take Care!

Frank

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Stow, OH - originally Boston
  • 177 posts
Posted by Paul D on Monday, June 16, 2014 12:03 PM

>I think he's talking about beveling the edge.

Understand, and the right end of the mitrebox does that. Just thinking that gentle, surgical sawing with a fine tooth hacksaw blade will avoid 'dragging' foam paricles with a fixed-in-place blade on that stuff, and eliminates the grain issue on balsa. And the straight/bevel cutter starts at twice the price of the mitrebox plus the cost of replacement blades. Whatever works.

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 369 posts
Posted by JAMES MOON on Monday, June 16, 2014 4:12 PM
Like your design. Think I will make one.
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Monday, June 16, 2014 6:23 PM

1/4 inch foam board, 1/8 and 3/16 inch balsa.  I'd use my radial arm saw (RAS for short).  Or a table saw if I had one. If you lack either tool, try Craigslist.  Used ones can be had for $100.  If you are doing bench work, or any sort of work working,  either a RAS or a table saw is the way to go.

 

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • 602 posts
Posted by NP01 on Monday, June 16, 2014 7:57 PM

Yes beveled edge is the question. I do have That yellow box, did not know it will do that, will try. 

Steve S, that's a nifty tool! Do you sell those?

NP. 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Stow, OH - originally Boston
  • 177 posts
Posted by Paul D on Monday, June 16, 2014 8:18 PM

Re: Yellow Box

 You can do that "slant" cut on the right end and get the bevel you're looking for on the butt end of a wall up to a max of 4 inches high (29 HO feet). Get an economy pack of 3 spare blades and just hold the blade (no frame or handle) and gently stroke it though that angled slot on the right end. Take your time and be surgical. Beats hell out of an expensive power saw or a stiff fixed blade that'll drag through foam board and leave a jagged cut. You control the cut with a slow surgical stroke. I think you'll you'll be happy. As with anything, just be gentle. Precision is more better than quick!

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