I want to remove the shell from a Blueline F7B dummy unit to add weight.
Has anyone removed the shell from the frame?
How do you do it?
I don't want to damage the shell by prying on it.
Rich
Alton Junction
If there are screws, unscrew those, since it is a dummy, the screws are not to the motor. My Athearn RTR locomotive has plastic tabs on the bottom of the fuel tank that you push towards the center of the locomotive. There is a video on removing shells on the MRR website.
Hi, Rich
I have my Blueline F-7A right in front of me.
There are four rather robust wedge shaped retainers molded inside the shell fore and aft of the fuel tank. Some recommend tooth picks to pry the sides of the shell out and keep these disengaged but I don't find that necessary.
The B unit will be the same. You don't even have to remove the couplers, just the cut levers. Spread the shell sides and the chassis will flop out.
Good luck, ED
gmpullman Hi, Rich I have my Blueline F-7A right in front of me. There are four rather robust wedge shaped retainers molded inside the shell fore and aft of the fuel tank. Some recommend tooth picks to pry the sides of the shell out and keep these disengaged but I don't find that necessary. The B unit will be the same. You don't even have to remove the couplers, just the cut levers. Spread the shell sides and the chassis will flop out. Good luck, ED
Ed, I appreciate your advice, but I cannot quite follow what you are saying.
Can you take another pass at explaining it for me?
richhotrain gmpullman Hi, Rich I have my Blueline F-7A right in front of me. There are four rather robust wedge shaped retainers molded inside the shell fore and aft of the fuel tank. Some recommend tooth picks to pry the sides of the shell out and keep these disengaged but I don't find that necessary. The B unit will be the same. You don't even have to remove the couplers, just the cut levers. Spread the shell sides and the chassis will flop out. Good luck, ED Ed, I appreciate your advice, but I cannot quite follow what you are saying. Can you take another pass at explaining it for me? Rich
My locomotive is the same way, so I will try to explain. On the bottom of the fuel tank there are four plastic tabs that should be the same color as the shell. I use a flat head screw driver to push the tabs toward the center of the locomotive. It should then just pop off.
Rich,
On each side of the locomotive wedge two rounded wooden toothpicks between the fuel tank and the shell; one toward the front end of the fuel tank and one towards the back end. This will dislodge the tabs on the shell from the indentation on the side of the chassis. The shell should then gently pull off. The wooden toothpicks will keep from marring the shell.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Here's 1000 words worth...
You might feel like you are going to break something but the chassis eventually drops out.
Take care, Ed
OK, thanks guys, I got it.
Yikes the shell and the frame did not want to separate even with the toothpicks.
Incidentally, I did need to remove the couplers to separate the shell from the frame.
What helped was some openings in the metal frame where I could apply some leverage with a small hobby screw driver.
I still need to do it to the other B unit. I think I will pour me a single malt scotch first.
Another question now that I have shell off, and that is how much weight to add.
The entire dummy unit weighs 5.25 ounces (150 grams), and it is 6.25 inches in length.
Any recommendations?
richhotrain Incidentally, I did need to remove the couplers to separate the shell from the frame.
Maybe since I usually clip the trip pin on my engines I was able to get the front coupler out of the pilot opening. In my first response I mention the "cut lever" and I'm refering to the molded uncoupling linkage. That pries out and it is then out of the way of the coupler. I have it taped inside the shell in the photo. The B unit should pose no problem with the couplers on but maybe yours is a little different.
Those BLI F units are pretty good pullers with the stock weight. I never gave any thought to adding more.
I'll join you in that single malt Ed
Thanks, Ed.
That term, "cut lever" is what initially threw me.
I have always felt that the dummy B units were too light, especially between two heavier powered A units, so I figured that there is no time like the present.
Being a dummy unit, you want to add just enough weight to keep it tracking.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central