a few detailing ?s on FT units in NP dress

[BIG JERR]

Hey there all; I'm still or back working on some NP freight FT  units like the Pict.

 my shells are Stewart models and I must assume from my proto type Pict's that these are "later days units" ex. (radio equipped). so here is a few   ?s

1. the front lower head light frame ,is this a available casting ?

2. were these units numbered in sets since they were draw-bared together in AB con fig ,meaning there was one NUMBER/letter for both A&B ex. "5409A" covered both A&B units ?

3.the rear stirrups & grab irons @ AB draw-bared connection appear to NOT have been used or applied on prototype units ,looks like no coupler= no grab/stirrup setup ? so I should cut off stirrup and NOT install side grabs at this point on shell ?? 

4. and though I'M not going to change this ,did NP opt for the larger front corner number boards instead of the smaller side number board that comes on the model

   any help Jerry

 

[cedarwoodron]

The rear foot stirrups are easy- cut carefully- with a surface directly underneath to work against, sand with a 400 wet/dry grit to even out the line and a 1000 wet/dry grit to smooth, then touch up the paint. The number boards present a body challenge- I would carefully cut each off, so that you could reposition them (reuse what is already available at no cost), after some sanding, as front boards. If you do so, use an interior backing of styrene against which to insert a surface patch (assuming you clean the hole, then fill and sand as needed. Make sure the interior backing is thick enough to provide some support for the patch piece and that it (backing piece) does not interfere with the shell's fit on the frame. This second effort presumes a repaint/re-decal job. Cedarwoodron

[bogp40]

BIG JERR

Hey there all; I'm still or back working on some NP freight FT  units like the Pict.

 my shells are Stewart models and I must assume from my proto type Pict's that these are "later days units" ex. (radio equipped). so here is a few   ?s

1. the front lower head light frame ,is this a available casting ?

2. were these units numbered in sets since they were draw-bared together in AB con fig ,meaning there was one NUMBER/letter for both A&B ex. "5409A" covered both A&B units ?

3.the rear stirrups & grab irons @ AB draw-bared connection appear to NOT have been used or applied on prototype units ,looks like no coupler= no grab/stirrup setup ? so I should cut off stirrup and NOT install side grabs at this point on shell ?? 

4. and though I'M not going to change this ,did NP opt for the larger front corner number boards instead of the smaller side number board that comes on the model

   any help Jerry

 

Jerry although I can't help w/ some of the prototype NP questions, most starting details would be found in the Detail Assoc set DK 701 (A unit) and DK 702  (B unit).  Additional grabs such as the nose ladder are the drop style and the ladder rest (DA 2215) not sure if these Fs use the rear roof grabs and the windshield curved roof (DA 2221).  The Stewart shells although lacking detail, especially w/ some of those awesome new offerings, can be detailed to look rather decent. They do have the smoothest drive whether the Stewart/ Kato or later Stewart/ Bowser.  I would check into Detail west or Cal Scale for those lower headlight housings, even if not specified for this unit, there are numerous ones that would be quite close. Tender or B unit backup light housings may work. I would check out many more pics of these units as to how they evolved though the years and which you want to actually model for your time frame. Cutting off those rear stirrups and detailing the fuel tank if you want to remove the skirts.

If you haven't changed out the couplers, I would suggest the Kadee #450 F unit conversion. ( 1 pair/ pg). These 30 series and the bracket suppiied will allow for coupler spacing at prototypical 3ft or if you radius deems set at outer hole for the 5ft spacing.

90% of my F units are Stewart, enjoyed detailing these fine pieces

[BIG JERR]

Still at it  got booth ab sets numbered,  grabs, decals twin lower lights made from castings I had for my SD9 sp set by D.W. ,abit of carefull filing to get the angle ,its not exact but I think it passes ,and the well be     "lit"

need lens for the twins,  some more side hand rails for B units , NO I am NOT messing with the number boards ....maybe some weathering   , this is my second try at detailing 

hope to finish soon

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

Jerry .... You have done a great job with your FT.. I Googled "Northern Pacific FT images" and saw one photo of the NP FT's before modifications to the front end. So a person modeling the 1940's would not need to make the changes. ....

NP also changed the number boards, and that would be challenging. In fact, trying to do that could result in making an un-fixable mess.

Kalmbach's book "Detailing Diesel Locomotives" by Jeff Wilson is now several years old, but worth having for a reference. One of its projects is to detail a Norther Pacific F3 using a Proto 1000 model. It has a headlight in the door, but it is not the same style as on your FT. It uses a Cal Scale round headlight similar to the upper headlight.

Jerry .... I'm glad you stared this thread. Nice work!

[BIG JERR]

thanks Gary : got the lens done by going thru the clear sprues in the FT kits an by luck found two sprue that were just a tad bigger than the holes i had drilled in the castings ,so I open the holes one size CA'd the spues in the holes and shell ( this helps hold the castings to shell) and using a TRICK that I read on the DCC university site ,I placed a droplet of "faller expert " glue on the ends ,inside and out of lens spues and not only does it give a "crystal clear" plastic but it puts a rounded over "head light look " to the clear plastic sprue LENS

 I am a bit excided since this looks to be my first motify/detail prodject that gets "FINISHED" or close any way...seams I always run short of detail parts like grabs ,casting ,paint ,decals, etc. And since I live far from hobby/train shop and don't want to order a 3 dollar item then pay 8 dollars shipping so I wait till I got a list of stuff to order to spread the shipping cost . The real lesson is how fast a 12 pac of grab irons or such gets used up on one prodject ! thanks Jerry