"TRACK CLEANING METHODS"

[TrainsRMe1]

HI All,

      I might have post this before, but I would like to know, what is the BEST BULLETPROOF FAIL SAFE method to clean your track, do any of you have what you would call a life saver for your layout???? Thanks, inqiuering minds would love to know!!!

                                        Trainsrme1

[BroadwayLion]

Eh? Clean tracks? What is that?

Some electric contact cleaner once in a while, not even on all of the track, and it runs great.

Of course 48 wheel pick-up does not hurt the operation either.

ROAR

[jeffrey-wimberly]

The GLEAM method is what I use. Do it once and forget it. I GLEAMed my layout in June 2006 and didn't have to do any cleaning (maybe a quick wipe with a dry cloth here or there if I spilled something like plaster dust on the track) until I tore the track up and rebuilt the layout in 2010 I think. I GLEAMed it again and didn't have to clean it again until this year when I again tore the track up. When I get back into my home (living at my fathers place for medical reasons best not discussed here) I will again rebuild the layout and the track will be GLEAMed as it's put down. Now what is the GLEAM method or process as some call it? Well instead of explaining it I'll the guy who originally posted it here explain it. I copied this from my forum.

When it comes to having clean track that stays clean, you might want to try this. It was posted by one of the members of the Model Railroader forum. It worked for me. It's called 'GLEAM'.


QUOTE: (Originally posted by Semafore)

I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it

[peahrens]

My layout is less than 2 years old, DCC HO.  DCC can be more sensitive to minor power interruptions as a brief interruption can cause the sound to hiccup even when the loco keeps going across the short interruption points.  So, I gleamed my track as suggested and believe that is the best major step.  I do get a bit of interruption occasionally, maybe because of accumulated dust.  So, I also use an (expensive) CMX car with denatured alcohol solvent when things are not perfect.  And I also just built a "John Allen track cleaning car" to add to my toolkit.  People make these cars by adding a Masonite pad to a freight car.  The pad (textured side) slides along and cleans the track.  I think the gleam method is option 1, and the next addition if needed would be the John Allen car.  I'll see if I can find a link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqRda0DR-bg

 

Of course, it is important to keep your loco pickups clean: loco wheels, tender wheels (as applicable), things like pickup wipers on tender axles on my BLI steamer.  I clean the loco driver wheels by spinning the wheels on a piece of paper towel on the track, the towel wet with denatured alcohol.  I also switch my freight car plastic wheels out to metal wheelsets to help with cleanliness (plastic wheels are viewed as more prone to retain gunk and redeposit it around the track).  Everyone does not subscribe to this theory, however, and it costs about $3 per car with the Intermountain wheelsets I use.   

[hardcoalcase]

Chalk up another vote for the Gleam Team! 

Gleaming kept the mirror finish on my rails for months on end.  That said, I will note that I have not found it to be a once-and-never-again solution since I’ve had to occasionally (every few weeks) remove small areas of gunk using alcohol and a clean cloth.  Possibly because the layout was still under construction (creating dust) and a number of the cars still had plastic wheels.   

But overall – it is the best cleaning approach I’ve ever found and I highly recommend it!

I also plan to add the John Allen cleaning car.

Jim

[jeffrey-wimberly]

hardcoalcase

I also plan to add the John Allen cleaning car.

I don't have one of those but I do use a Bachmann track cleaning tank car. It drags a dry pad underneath it like the John Allen cars do. They normally cost around $45 but I got mine virtually free. It was in a box of old freight cars someone sent me in trade for a few cars they wanted.

[alco_fan]

TrainsRMe1

      I might have post this before,

Indeed you did

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/212303.aspx

and you are receiving the same answers from the same people as the last time. Maybe next time take 15 seconds and check your past threads (as I did)

You do not need quote marks around your thread titles. 

[NP2626]

alco_fan

TrainsRMe1

      I might have post this before,

Indeed you did

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/212303.aspx

and you are receiving the same answers from the same people as the last time. Maybe next time take 15 seconds and check your past threads (as I did)

You do not need quote marks around your thread titles.

This seems to be a recurring topic and is always pertinent, even if posted twice, thrice; or, more times by the same poster!   Also, I've always thought that as an "American" a person can use quotation marks whenever and where ever a person feels like using them!

I find it interesting that to my knowledge, although I have taken hiatuses from this hobby, I have never seen anything written about "Gleaming track" in the modeling press.  Can someone steer me to an article written on the subject?  Also, if it is the "End all, be all" for maintaining continuity to the wheels, why aren't the manufacturers providing pre-gleamed track?  Having worked in manufacturing most of my life, I can say  this process is easily available to them and would be a way to boost the profit of their products.

I'm not saying Gleaming doesn't work, only wondering it seems as though it is a VooDoo science.

[Mark R.]

I'm sure the manufacturers would be more than happy to burnish all the rail heads on their track if the consumer wouldn't mind paying for the extra process onto what is already ridiculous prices for ready made track ....

Mark.

[fec153]

Just remember to PUSH the track cleaner car to remove dust and spider webs off the rails.

Flip

 

[tomikawaTT]

I have lifted and relaid flex track that had been given the gleem treatment once.  It didn't require rework and is still giving excellent service.

Admittedly, the first time takes time.  After that spot-cleaning, if needed, takes seconds.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)