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Brass locos and Code 83?

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  • Member since
    July 2013
  • 11 posts
Brass locos and Code 83?
Posted by Big_Mike on Thursday, September 26, 2013 8:56 PM

I am thinking of purchasing some 60s-70s Pacific Fast Mail brass, and I'm curious about the compatibility with Code 83 track.  Do the flanges have to be turned down, or are they good to go?

  • Member since
    July 2002
  • From: Jersey City
  • 1,925 posts
Posted by steemtrayn on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:13 AM

Good to go. With vintage brass, flange depth will be the least of your problems.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,447 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Friday, September 27, 2013 12:00 PM

Vintage brass can be a handful - unless it sits in a display case.   If you are adept at working on steamers and metal models, go for it.   If not, I would hesitate to get involved.

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Friday, September 27, 2013 1:18 PM

I run a fleet of 1960's era Japanese brass locomotives, all of which have three things in common:

  1. RP-25 flanges (good on code 55 and above.)
  2. Dependable operation on analog DC, most with their original open-frame motors.
  3. HOj (1:80) scale, but run on 16.5mm (HO standard) gauge track.

If the locos were properly set up to start with, properly lubricated and not grossly abused they are not, and should not be, problem children.  Most of the reports of problems are a result of somebody moving the RTR locomotive from the box to the rails without a preliminary inspection and lubrication.  When Linn Westcott defined RTR as, "Ready to rework," he was onto something.

My own locos (with a few exceptions) were assembled from kits,so I could make sure they were put together right.  They have had a few problems over the years - but nothing that couldn't be cured during a viisit to the workbench.  Of course, I have a large stock of spare parts - but so does any good backshop.

My views on scheduled, preventive maintenance have been a matter of record ever since I posted to Joe Fugate's Dirty Little Secret thread.  Since I practice what I preach, road failures are all but unknown in the Upper Tomikawa Valley.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with well maintained, properly lubricated brass)

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    August 2006
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Posted by trainnut1250 on Friday, September 27, 2013 1:56 PM

Mike,

I run brass from that era on code 100, 83 and 55 with no problems. 

My brass roster has run the gamut in terms of reliability and amount of tinkering necessary to keep the fleet running.  I would suggest that you make friends with an experienced brass tinkerer if you are new to brass. I have had my bacon saved several times by being able to consult with the local brass gurus. 

Many brass locos from the era you are talking about (actually most eras) varied widely in terms of running characteristics.  Find out which brands and runs of particular loco you are looking to buy are the best runners.  This saves some headaches later...

Your mileage may vary,

Guy

see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Posted by don7 on Friday, September 27, 2013 2:10 PM

Ihave a number of Brass locomotives, the newer brass locomotives of say the last ten to fifteen years are very good running locomotives, only real servicing being wheel cleaning, lube and oiling on a regular basis.

I have never run across any problems with the flanges being too large.

The others I have which many date back to 1970's  are also for the most part good running locomotives, once in a while I will have a locomotive develop an electrical short.

As I am in the process of converting my locomotives to DCC i can tell you that after conversion I have not had any problems with those locomotives developing electrical shorting since the motors are now isolated from the frame.

After years of tinkering I have become quit adapt at fixing these as well. Also on occasion valve gear will also need to be tweeked, this is rare but does require attention on rare occasions.

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