Has anyone figured out how to power turnout frogs while using the Caboose Industries ground throws? These are the style that do not have the contacts. Are the ones with the contacts reliable?
I am considering replacing them with the Tortoise switch machine, but I would rather use what i have if possible. I have used Tortoise's in the past, but would much rather stay with the ground throws.
Thanks for any help!
Chuck - Modeling in HO scale and anything narrow gauge
I use Caboose throws with Walthers T/Os. I didn't have a problem with the frogs until I bought my first 4-4-0. I bought a half dozen frog juicers to power my troublesome frogs. Out of about 40 T/Os I have only had to put the juicers on four of them. I have two on standby in case any new loco of the smallish variety is purchased and causes me grief.
Wonderful things those frog juicers.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Caboose Ind #119 & #220 are the SPDT contact versions of throws.
I have been using a number of them on my current layout now for over 3 years with no problems.
I hold twice monthly OPs Sessions with 20 operators running so these Throws will get a workout.
So your application should work well.
Try 1 or 2 to see how they hold up before committing to a large scale change over either way!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
I have Caboose Industries 220 throws in a couple of places on my layout and have found them to be quite reliable. I use mine to switch indicator leds on mini control panels for crossovers and they work well. They should do as well powering your frogs.
Joe
On a previous layout I bought Radio Shack lever type SPDT microswitches.
I wrapped shim brass around the lever and soldered a brass rod or piano wire to it.
I drilled a 3/8 " hole under the points and screwed a wood block to the underside of the tableI fed the piano wire up through the 3/8 hole and into the hole in the throwbar. the microswitch was screwed to the wood block so that when the switch was thrown, the microswitch would open or close.
As an enhancement one could glue the blocks of wood to a small piece of thin plywood or hardboard and inch or so wider than the block, so the ply is against the underside of the road bed. Then drive 3/4" drywall screws two each side of the block up against the ply but not into it. One can loosen the screws and then slide the ply side to side to adjust the activation of the switch, then tighten the screws to clamp down the assembly when its working right.
Parts:
1" wide piece of 1x2
2" square peice of 1/8 in ply or hardboard
4 3/4" drywall screws
2 small wood screws (to mount the switch to the block)
2" .030-.040 piano wire or brass rod
1/2 in sq piece of .005 shim brass
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Ahhh...the frog juicers! I should have mentioned that I am running DC, not DCC.
Bob and Joe, Thanks for the recommendations on the Caboose Industries 220. It looks like I'll give one a shot to try it out.
Dave - The idea about the microswitches is a good one and I certainly appreciate the how-to.
I think I'll try both to see which I like better.
Thanks again for the replies!
Frog juicers work with both DC and DCC.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Jay,
I can see a 'single' frog juicer working if it is getting power from the block the turnout is in - Maybe. The dual and 6 pack versions may have an issue as they get their power from a single block Also, their is no constant power as it depends on what your DC throttle setting is. The Tam Valley web site indicates that frog juicer's are only for DCC layouts.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin