Happy gloomy Monday from Indiana!
I recently purchased a couple of BLMA Trinity Reefers and the quality and details are great.
What brands do you feel are the best for quality of operation and details? I'm just beginning to build my stock of cars as I'm new at this scale, and could use some help.My NMRA brethren said to insist on Kadee #5 couplers and metal wheels. Suggestions on these too?
Thanks!Dan
BLMA is a good company.
I find:
To be all exceptionally detailed, and reliable. My only quarum with the Branchline heavyweights is the trucks can sometimes be a little picky or flaky. I replaced them with Walthers trucks (which has the side benefit of having electrical pickups)
For couplers, Kadee is the only way to go!
Some swear by Kato, but I haven't owned any of their stuff.
Walthers, Athearn, and Bowser make good middle line stuff. Bowser is highly reliable, but is lacking on details. (They are making massive improvements as of late if their diesels are of any evidence) Walthers cars require tuning, but are well detailed. Athearn gives a sturdy car, but may be lacking on details.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
In the way of best operating freight cars for your buck, I'd suggest Athearn "Blue Box" models/kits picked up at train shows. Accurail and Bowser make some nice kits too. The detail isn't the absolute best, but they are cheap, plentiful, and once they're weathered, they look just as good as Walthers Proto stuff.
If you want detail, then resin kits may be the way to go. Branchline Trains also makes some nicely detailed prepainted plastic kits in their Blueprint Series, but you will need to enlarge mounting holes and be very careful of the separately applied plastic grab-irons and stirrup steps (those can be a real pain.) BL's Yardmaster Series kits are much easier to assemble and doesn't have any REALLY fragile details, but the overall detail level is lower.
I would recommend having all your equipment equipped with Kadee #5 copulers. Plastic couplers just aren't as durable as Kadee #5s, and the similar Walthers couplers have shightly larger heads and cost either the same or a little bit more.
The reason that metal wheels are suggested is that they don't pick up dirt as well as plastic ones. If you regurally clean your track or use a conducting agent like automatic transmission fluid, there's no real difference. I have a combination of plastic and metal wheels on my fleet, and they run just fine.
Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!
Dan,
I'm going to assume you are in HO: Here's my list from "least to best" from my own experience:
Fair
Decent
Good
Very Good
Excellent
In general, Exactrail and Kadee are the top winners in quality and operation. However, some of the manufacturers nearing the bottom of the list above (very good to excellent) are very close to the same quality to one another so it made it rather difficult to rank them one better than the other. Depending on the particular model, the order of the manufacturers could - easily and realistically - change places.
Whenever I build or buy a piece of rolling stock, the first thing I do is to replace the coupler to Kadee #58s and the wheel sets to Proto 2000 33".
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
What brands do you feel are the best for quality of operation and details?
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Ok..For your guidelines for operation and details and in no order..
1.Atlas Master line
2.ExactRail
3.Intermountain
4.Red Caboose.
5.Fox Valley.
6.Athearn/Genesis
7.Some of the mid to upper end Athearn R-T-R cars..
8.BLMA
IMHO these are the cream of the crop as far as details and all comes equipped with metal wheels.
As a suggestion since you seem to be going for the gold may I suggest the KaDee #158 scale coupler?
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
You have all forgottern Tangent Scale Models, the most accurate models available includes Kadee Couplers, Metal Wheels, Accurate Paint Schemes.
The biggest problem with Atlas Cars and Locsos, they include Accubreak Couplers.
The biggest problem with Athearn Cars and Locos, they include McJunky Couplers.
Rick J
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
1. Metal wheels and real kadees are best, IMO.
2. Tangent is a good car mfg that uses both of #1 above along with good quality and high detail.
3. There are many good mfgs out there and with some work, they can all be made to run well.
4. The real issue for me has become making sure what I'm buying is actually a model of a prototype. So, I have started doing research first, particularly trying to find a photo before I buy the model. Tangent, Exact Rail, and Kadee seem to be good at this, but after being burned over the years, I think in terms of trust but verify--particularly with the more mass produced models and RTR. RTR is a particular problem since the mfgs try to get one form factor to work for various prototypes by just changing the paint. That's why "superdetailing" is almost always required if you want to be authentic for a broad range of cars.
As far as bang for the buck--give me Athearn BB any day with some details, wheels, couplers and paint. This way, when I finish the model to match a photo, I know it's right vs a pretend that someone paid as much as $50 for.
Richard
dti406 You have all forgottern Tangent Scale Models, the most accurate models available includes Kadee Couplers, Metal Wheels, Accurate Paint Schemes.
Rick,
I didn't mention them (or Athearn "Genesis") because I have no experience with them. My list is only of the models that I've either put together myself or bought RTR.
One thing I didn't see above was Kadee's #148 whisker coupler. It is a direct replacement for the #5 , but with a built in spring, rather than the seperate one. One less piece to loose. I have heard that the shank is a little thicker, thus works better in a few places or needs a little filing down in others. They are very simple to install on any of the cars I have converted.
Good luck,
Richard.
tstage dti406 You have all forgottern Tangent Scale Models, the most accurate models available includes Kadee Couplers, Metal Wheels, Accurate Paint Schemes. Rick, I didn't mention them (or Athearn "Genesis") because I have no experience with them. My list is only of the models that I've either put together myself or bought RTR. Tom
I agree..I only seen one Tangent car and it was still in the box.
I do own several cars of the brands I mention.
Hi Dan,
Lots of great brands mentioned already so I won't repeat. But I did want to get to some Kadee advice. For the most part #5, #58, or #148's will fit but don't take it for granted. Check the Kadee site for the conversion list. For example, I have a Athearn Genesis Trinity covered hopper which needs a #78 plus some body work. Luckily it is listed plus the pdf on the site shows the mods needed to make to the model. Basically the issue was the Athearn made the coupler pocket too narrow to take a "standard" Kadee.
http://kadee.com/conv/ho.htm
Also just because you pay extra for a "better" brand doesn't mean it will be perfect out of the box. I bought two Exactrail Gondolas this weekend. They where on the layout 2 minutes and they derailed. Pulled them off and put them on the scale and they where too light. Added some weight and then back to the layout and magically derailments are gone.
I have also had various brands with troublesome trucks or wheels out of round or gauge. I have gotten into the habit of replacing these with Kadee Sprung Trucks with the appropriate wheel size and tonnage. Kadee has a page to check to see which will work for your model.
http://kadee.com/htmbord/truck.htm
Good luck with your rolling stock
Derek
The best HO Scale rolling stock is what ever fits your budget. Plain & simple.
A lot of my stuff is Athearn BB & Roundhouse kits. I like them because I don't have to worry if my son or one of his buddies handles them.
I also have a lot of Walthers/Athearn RTR & Genesis/Atlas/Branchline & Proto RTR & kits as well.
They fit my budget thanks to eBay & Kijiji.
All have been converted to KD's & slowly replacing the plastic wheels for metal ones
Gordon
Brought to you by the letters C.P.R. as well as D&H!
K1a - all the way
keep your own council on the metal wheel issue. some guys insist on them and i have heard of clubs that require them. some, like me, use them if the original plastic wheels need replacing but not just for the heck of it.
i think this difference of opinion is because layouts have different environments and states of track cleanliness.
i am one of the lucky ones who gets away running about half my equipment with plastic wheels and experiences no problems doing so.
on the other hand, using all metal wheels shouldn't really hurt anything and if you are comfortable with the little extra work and the extra cost of doing so, then make yourself happy.
Be happy in your work,
Charlie
Great suggestions and all are appreciated. Thanks a ton guys!
Dan