Specific Details- Laying Flex Track

[FThunder11]

You've probably heard this question a million times, but now here it is again. I was messing around with laying some roadbed and track, and then it hit me, How do I lay the flextrack? I doesn't have the little holes like in sectional track. This is obviously my first time with flextrack, if you couldnt tell. This is also this weeks update of the Layout. The foam is down and its time for track and roadbed! Anyways, in answering my question, could you PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, with a cherry on top, give very specific details???[;)]

[Anonymous]

Hmm, most flex I use has holes. Check on the bottom. Odds are it has holes partially drilled through it, so you don't have to see the ones you don't use. If so, use a small drill bit to open the holes all the way...

[EL PARRo]

You could drill holes in the middle of some of the ties, but I like to use spikes because they look better and hold down the track better. First, find a tie that you want to spike. I use about every fifteenth tie. On the outside of the rail, use an Xacto knife to remove the plastic spike. Drill a small hole where the spike was, and then use a pair of needle nose pliers do insert the spike. I like to use Micro Engineering spikes.

[Junctionfan]

I'm just wondering but would a staple gun work?

[Anonymous]

Well I am laying flex track at this very instant this is what I do.
First I use 1/2 inch plywood sanded smooth and then a wood putty filler to bring any low spotts up sand that also. then I am cutting my own cork roadbed. I secure it with elmers wood glue sand that smooth also. Then I lay my track also using elmers wood glue. so far I have zero derailments. I have been laying track off and on for the last 5 months patience and being tedious is key to having perfect running trains.

[Don Gibson]

If memory is correct, only Atlas code 100 has holes down the center (Atlas 83?) for nailing . Shinohara has 'spike' holes alongide rails (inside & outside), and Micro-Engineering has none, which requires using a pin vice to drill, or gluing.

My latest endeavor was 'guing' cork down with 3M - a latex spray cement - and spiking the track to it, although I'd try Joe's idea.  Cork is such a good sound deadener when used properly (do not let nails contact plywood to create a 'soundboard').

One spray-mount product stays 'tacky' and used by photographers (to exhibit pictures), the other, a spray Contact Cement, has a permanent grip.

Problem with nailing flextrack is it's easy for nail to be set too low and change gauge, or too high , where they snag 'hoses'.

[egmurphy]

For starters, if you're using foam under your track, any spiking/track nailing you do should be just to hold the flextrack in position until the glue dries. Foam isn't strong enough to hold spikes/nails for long.

Use white glue, carpenters glue, Aileen's Tacky Glue, or any one of the others that have been recommended here. Glue the cork roadbed to the foam. Hold in place with push pins until glue dries (12-24 hrs in my case). Then use the same glue to attach the flextrack to the cork roadbed, using tracknails / spikes to hold it in place until the glue dries (also 12-24 hrs). You can also glue directly to the foam if you don't want to use cork. You can also use any of the other roadbed products, I just talk about cork because it's what I use.

My flex track (N scale / Atlas) does have holes, but in any case I usually drill them out a bit larger because the track nails always seem to me to be a bit tight and I don't want to break the ties with the nail. After cutting flex track to length I also usually wind up with a length of ties at the end of the piece with no holes. I usually prefer to nail the last tie and third tie from the end to help hold them in position, so I also wind up drilling out new holes there.

For drilling you want to use a pin vise, not any large drill. I find that a #62 drill (.038" dia) is about the right size to allow the track nail to fit without any slop.

I usually remove the tracknails the day after laying the track. They don't add any strength at that time, and I don't need to live with having those little round bumps in the middle of my ties.

jmho, ymmv

Regards

Ed

[rexhea]

I use Atlas HO flex and it has holes, but you have to take a drill bit or track nail and run in through from the bottom.

1.This first thing I do is cut one tie off each end of a 3 foot section giving enough room for the rail connectors.

2. For straight aways, I lay the track, straighten, and secure with track nails, then use full strength white glue between the ties. If you wet the roadbed like you would scenery, the glue will flow around the ties better. What glue gets on the ties dries clear and painting will take care of that. Let the glue dry complete;y before doing anything else such as painting or ballasting.

3. For curves, pretty much the same. I have found it easier to always have the moving rail to the inside. That way you only have one rail to cut off and not any ties to worry about.

If you choose to keep the track nails such as in curves, drive them even with the tops of the ties with a nail setter. Be careful not to go too far and bend the ties. This could cause problems with your rail to rail distance.

REX

[Anonymous]

Hey guys,
I'M NOT NEW TO RAILROADING BY ANY MEANS BUT i HAVE NEVER ACTUALLY PUT TOGETHER A LAYOUT. i AM CURRENTLY MAKING MY FIRST ATTEMPT. i'VE BUILT THE FRID TABLES, LAYED THE ROADBED WITH HALF INCH PLY AND GLUED DOWN COMMERCIAL CORK ROAD BED. MY CURVES WERE CUT WITH A ROUTER OUT OF HALF SHEETS OF PLY WITH 22" RADIUSES. EVERYTHING IS GOING REAL SMOOTH UNTIL I STARTED PUTTING DOWN THAT FLEX TRACK. I HAVE SLID ONE RAIL OUR ABOUT A FOOT AND INSERTED THE EXTENDED RAIL FROM THE NEXT TRACK. iF i USE RAIL CONNECTORS, THEY COME APART IN THE CURVES SO I AM SOLDERING THE JOINTS TOGETHER. THIS IS A PAIN! wHEN YOU GET A LONG SECTION TOGETHER IT IS NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO HANDLE. iS THERE A SIMPLER WAY TO LAY THIS STUFF?
JERRY BAKER

[rexhea]

It sounds like you are doing everything correct up to the track laying. I am not sure if I understand what's happening or how you are doing it.

First remove 1 tie at each end of section and use a track nail to open nails holes in section.

1. Make sure the floating rail (the loose rail) will be on the inside of the curve so it will end up the longest.
2. Keeping your 1st section straight align and Solder the joiners to the straight away.
3. Follow the radius center line and nail the track in place except the last hole.
4. With the track end in alignment with the center line, cut (I use rail cutters) the longer floater rail even with the stationary rail, nail track end in place and connect another section.
5. Keep new section straight and join to 1st (do not follow radius yet), align the rails, and solder. Now, continue nailing track following the center line of the radius and repeat as needed.

My method may be a bit different than some, but I've got over 500 ft down without problem. The key thing is to keep your rails aligned at each joint and then solder. If you don't , the radius will change at that point and you could end up with a warped rail causing derailment.

Hope this helps.
REX

[jfugate]

Nailing, spiking, or stapling flex track down is, in my opinion, doing things the hard way.

I have been using latex caulk to fasten down flex track since I started the HO Siskiyou Line in May of 1991 and have had no issues with it. I use a gray color since that's similar in color to my ballast.

The stuff is wonderful. It allows you about 10-15 minutes of working time to get the track alignment precisely where you want it. Later, if you want to remove the track, just go get a putty knife, slip it under the track, and pull it up.

I use a small 4 x 6 hand mirror ($2 at Walmart) to check the track alignment. If something is not flowing smooth, I can give it a little nudge until it looks good.

Very simple, quick, and painless way to lay track. I believe Chuck Hitchcock covered this method of laying track in a recent issue of Model Railroader, and I have to agree, it works *very* well indeed.

[rexhea]

Hi Joe,
I am always open to try new ideas---I hate track nails. I have some questions for you.

Will the caulk adhere to WS foam roadbed?
Do you use track nails to hold the alignment until the caulk drys?
Does it hold well in curves?
Any particular brand name of caulk?

I have some passing track to lay this week and I could try it .

Thanks., REX

[jfugate]

Rex:

I run a bead of caulk along the track center line, then spread it out with a putty knife until its about 1/16" thick. The stuff is slightly tacky, and will hold the track shape as long as it doesn't need too much tenshion to hold its shape. I use push pins on sharper curves and in the cases where I need to hold a stubborn piece in place.

Also you may need to weight the track down if it has a hump in it, since the track tends to "float" slightly in the caulk. My friend Charlie Comstock goes to the store and gets a case of tomatoes or corn in the can, and then uses the cans, laid the long ways, every few inches along the track to hold it in place while the caulk sets. The cans will also help the track stay put on curves while the caulk sets up.

Here's a photo from Charlie's web site:


And here's a link to his site:
http://www.bcsj.org/rr/bcsj3/construct040212/page06.htm

I would say it ought to adhere to WS foam just fine. I use Liquid Nails concrete repair ...
See: http://www.liquidnails.com/caulks/cr-805.html ... but any gray latex caulk ought to work . Here's a link to a DAP brand that's similar stuff.

http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=1&subcatid=1&prodhdrid=2

If you are not sure, the stuff's typically only $2 a tube. Pick up a tube, take some scraps, and try it out.

[rexhea]

Thanks Joe,
I have to go to Lowe's tomorrow so I'll pick up a tube and give it a try.

REX

[cpeterson]

As far as using caulk to lay flex track:  does the Caulk ever dry out or become brittle such as around the siding of your house?  Any problem with movement at track joints?

[Lillen]

What kind of material is Latex caulk? I'm swedish and have no idea of what it would be here in Sweden so if someone could describe what it's used for I might be able to figure it out? Or is there any other name for it?

 

Magnus

[pcarrell]

What kind of material is Latex caulk? I'm swedish and have no idea of what it would be here in Sweden so if someone could describe what it's used for I might be able to figure it out? Or is there any other name for it?

 

Magnus

Acrylic latex caulks are comprised of acrylic polymers, latex, water, and fillers. They bond very well to porous materials such as wood, masonry, plaster, and drywall. These caulks cure, or dry, as the water in them evaporates. Acrylic polymers and latex have excellent flexibility. They also retain this flexibility for long periods of time. Also, paints adhere well to the fillers that are present in these caulks.

Some of your confusion may arise from acrylic latex caulks that contain silicone or 'paintable' silicones. Some acrylic latex caulks contain small amounts of silicone. The silicone is added to improve their flexibility. The paintable water based silicone caulks often contain high amounts of fillers which allow paint to adhere to them. However, the high filler content tends to have an adverse affect on the overall performance of the caulk.

There are caulks available to suit just about any purpose. You can purchase caulks that look like brick mortar, blacktop, and concrete. Special low temperature caulks are available that adhere to cold, damp surfaces. Caulks are made that seal aluminum gutter joints which commonly leak due to expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes. There is a caulk for just about any need. For our purposes, just be sure they are foam friendly and don't attack your foam base.

Note: latex caulk is sometimes called "painter's caulk," or "latex/acrylic caulk."

[Lillen]

Thanks pcarrell for a very thorough response. I highly appreciate it. Could this be the stuff that you could use to smooth over a hole in a wall for example? I think I know what it might be and I will try some when my track arrives.

 

Once again, very grateful for the help.

 

Magnus

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Magnus-

Have a look at this.  You might use is to patch walls, but often that is a more rigid drying substance.  This stays a little flexible.  You might use it around a window, or a sink.  But look for the latex, not the silicone.

[Lillen]

I asked on a Swedish forum and I now I know what it is. I will pick some up and try it. I have used it on windows before and there are some in corners of the bathroom.

Thanks,

 

Magnus

[Dave-the-Train]

I believe I'm right in thinking that "Latex Caulk" is the stuff you use between the edge of a bath or sink unit and a tiled wall... ?

One detail that doesn't appear to have been mentioned is to get a pair of Xuron rail cutters to cut the rail (and nothng else) to length.

[daveb]

As far as I know Latex Caulk is what is known as Acrylic Sealant in some parts of the world and is not the same as Silicone Sealant as used in Bathrooms. Silicone Sealant cannot be painted so if the tube says "paintable sealant" it will most likely be the acrylic variety.

Dave.