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[quote]QUOTE: Originally posted by gfvonb I'm intrigued by the idea of using Z-scale couplers on N-scale models. I'm pretty new, though, so I'm not sure what the steps of the conversion process would entail... [/quote] It's not quite a bolt-on affair, and it takes a little time, but it's not too bad. For example, for current Atlas and Life-Like engines that you can quickly install a 1015 N-scale coupler in, I build up the coupler "pocket" with .020" and .010" styrene strips. The "pocket" then snugly fits the 905 NN3/Z scale coupler. I then drill a clearance hole in the bottom of the pocket, and drill and tap a hole in the top of the pocket, and mount the coupler with a brass 00-90 screw. This screw is located in the same location that it is for mounting a 1015 coupler. This method centers the coupler heightwise in the middle of the N couplers. Another example is an Intermountain or MT box car. These cars already have a location for body mounting an N-scale coupler, but it doesn't quite work for the NN3/Z scale couplers. I add a .020" x .125" strip shim to get the coupler to the desired height. The existing mounting hole is too far back for the NN3/Z scale coupler, so I drill a new one so that the NN3/Z coupler mounts at the edge of the box car, which gives a coupler spacing for these cars that is very close to what it is with truck or body mounted N scale couplers, which I think looks correct. I just tried body mounting a NN3/Z coupler on an Atlas PS2 covered hopper, again using .020" strip styrene shim the coupler to the proper height. This time, I used the normal mounting hole location (on the bottom of the car, there is an indentation where one is to drill), and the cars couple closer than with truck mounted couplers (which I think are too far apart). I still have to find a way to do this so that a screw doesn't stick up in the frame, but I think I've found a way. One could also replace the N coupler box on truck mounted couplers with Z-scale couplers, but I haven't tried that yet, personally. [quote]QUOTE: Also, what are the advantages (other than more prototypical appearance) and disadvantages of using Z couplers? [/quote] The thing is, other than one or two kits that convert Marklin equipment to MT couplers, there is only ONE NN3/Z scale coupler available (either 903 kits, or 905 assembled). So you have to find a way to use that coupler. The problem with that is that I haven't found a method of installing one in a locomotive with a snow-plow, or any other situation where a longer shank is required. Otherwise, the NN3/Z couplers work well with MT couplers, Accumate, and Kato couplers. The magnetic delayed uncoupling even works well between MT N and Z couplers. The Z couplers in their boxes work pretty smoothly, even better than the cramped 1015 couplers. But at the same time, the Z coupler box is longer than the 1015 couplers, so on some locomotives, you have to remove at least one of the Z couplers to get the shell off of the chassis (while you don't have to do so with 1015 couplers). The Z couplers already come with a thinner, blackened "air hose" wire, that looks a little better. In some cases, where needed, Z couplers allow a closer, more prototypical coupling distance. Another disadvantage might be that the NN3/Z couplers aren't as strong as the N scale couplers. I have pulled 15 heavy cars up steep grades with one of my Z-scale coupler equipped engines without issue, but that's still not close to what others might put a coupler through. I've also run one of those Z coupler equipped engines with another engine that isn't too closely matched (one engine runs faster than the other), which puts some stress on those couplers as the engines "tug" at each other, and I didn't have any issues with that either. So for me, it works, but someone else might find a problem down the line. ---jps
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