Does anyone know what the mininum radius is on a brass 2-8-8-2 (C&O H-7a) with fixed rear drivers?
I was going to assign my H-7a to helper status on hills so there should be no sharp curves. However it would be nice to know the minimum radius bofore I lay down track on the top level.
It was one of those Mea Culpa moments when I relized there was no screw to allow the rear drivers to articulate.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Don.
I think it is time to lay down some assorted pencil 'arcs' in the tile floor and use double stick tape to hold the flex track in place. The rest of your family will think you are crazy, but it works! My parents home had 9" tiles in the basement, and I taped down old fiber tie flex track to do my 'tests'
The problem with 'brass' is that a PFM/United model of your engine may run on 26" radius, and a later Key version(or what-ever) may need at least 30" radius. 'Testing' is the only sure-fire way to find out what 'really' works!
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I agree that testing is the only positive answer. Two locos from the same run might vary by as much as four inches in requirement.'
My technique is to lay a spiral on plywood, reducing the radius 50mm every 300mm chord (2 inches every 12 inch chord is close enough.) Starting at the broad end, run in until something derails. Then repeat, at track speed. If you remember to mark the radius at each change you will have a very accurate answer to your absolute minimum. Then allow 50mm/2 inches for 'wiggle room.'
Another thing to consider is the overhang of the smokebox, which may put fences, telephone poles, bushes and cars on concentric tracks at risk.
Your semi-articulated is hinged as Anatole Mallet intended. All those other models are Mayers in Mallet clothing...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with one Mallet-style semiarticulated limited to 14 inch radius)
You might try going to this site:
http://www.hoseeker.net/
They have lots of catalogs reproduced in their literature and you might be able to find this item and perhaps they have indicated a min radius. It was common to indicate min radius in many of the catalogs back in the golden age of brass. May just be a shot in the dark but it may give you a starting point. If this is the model I'm thinking of, I recall this as being imported by Custom Brass/NJ International?
DigitalGriffin Does anyone know what the mininum radius is on a brass 2-8-8-2 (C&O H-7a) with fixed rear drivers? I was going to assign my H-7a to helper status on hills so there should be no sharp curves. However it would be nice to know the minimum radius bofore I lay down track on the top level. It was one of those Mea Culpa moments when I relized there was no screw to allow the rear drivers to articulate.
I agree with the others that testing is the only sure fire answer - but I would suspect 30" to be a safe minimum for that loco - BUT - I'm not sure how good it will look or what kind of side clearances it will need at that radius - also a factor.
I decided years ago to not build any mainline trackage less than 36" radius, and the new layout will have most visible curves more in the 42" radius range - with good easements.
Sheldon
I had an old articulated that took sharp radius curves ok but looked really silly doing it. I also have a 2-10-0 that needs something larger than a 24 inch radius curve. It all depends on the locomotive and how it was designed and built. It could be that the loco would take a 30 inch radius but say goodbye to all the scenery objects within 4 inches of the curve. Our club has had everything on the rails from brass big boys and triplex steamers to little 2-2-0 old timers. Then one of the new BLI Centipede sets came in. From tunnel portals to trees were wiped out in one shot with all the excessive overhang. Those things are crazy articulated but still overhang tremendously.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
HergyI recall this as being imported by Custom Brass/NJ International?
It's the later 1992 Challenger Import version by Akane. It has a nice Vandy VC12 tender which would be prototypical for helper service. With a lil bit of greese and light oil it runs like a Swiss watch.
I saw someone advertise a Texas T-1 with a 42" minimum. My eyes popped.
I do have 36 and larger on the upper level planned. But the helix to the city level is 28.