ACC, AC, or Super Glue has no 'shear strength' when bonding smooth surfaces with no grain. The 'joint will' just pop apart' I use 90 second epoxy(I find mine at Hobby Lobby). This will bond metal and plastic surfaces together. Save your Super Glue for attaching small detail items that will not have any twisting force or stresses put on them.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I agree with Jim that super glue isn't for an application like this. Epoxy will work well and has the needed bond strength. I usually use the 5 minute variety to give me a little more time to change my mind
Joe
E-6000 is good stuff for challenging, dissimilar bonds like those in this situation.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I still bet the E-6000 will work...
However, I'd bet if you can bead-blast or otherwise roughen the delrin surface where the adhesive has to contact, it might provide enough tooth to help some things stick to it.
BTW, the CA product specially for delrin does work from what I've heard, so that's an option, although expensive.
cedarwoodronWell, so far I have tried the GE clear silicone- failed; Loctite 5 min. Epoxy- failed; 3M plastic emblem &trim adhesive- failed. I mean by "failed", in that there is a momentary hold, (after 24 hrs), but just nudge the wheel and the joint fails. I don't want to repeat that with about 20 wheels arranged on my rack insert piece, or I'll have wheels all over the place. The material issue is the acetal/delrin of the old surplus wheels (which I accumulate as I switch out cars to metal wheels). I note that several epoxy products specifically list a number of plastics that are NOT compatible with that particular product, so I avoided purchasing them. I am aware of Bond-it, but hesitate to spend a lot of money for such a minor application. I don't know what brand names the "cyano" adhesives come under, except one that Walthers has (had?) called Mike's, that was a tiny eye drop type bottle for 12.95, plus shipping presumably. Same issue- money out for small amount of product in return. The thing is- I have seen several examples of this railroad wheel load done on various websites ( not the Tichy product) using what the author referred to as "old wheels", so I'm a bit stumped... Cedarwoodron Could it be that the "old wheels" were metal? Joe
Could it be that the "old wheels" were metal?
Ron,
Give the wheels a little 'sanding' to rough up the surface and then put some epoxy on them, and let them 'sit' for about 10 minutes - You should have a good bond. Slippery engineering plastics are the toughest stuff to bond, and you need to get a 'tooth' in the material so that the glue will stick.
Ron, if the wheels you're using are plastic ones (usually on metal axles) that were changed out for newer all-metal replacements on cars running on your layout, it's the plastic used in the wheels which is causing the problem. Most of them were made in some form of engineering plastic, and the only adhesive which works with that type of plastic (and of which I'm aware) is a product known as Cyano-Epoxy, a chemical combination of ca and epoxy, and a rather expensive product.
I used the styrene plastic wheelsets available from Tichy, either with their 40' wheel-service flatcar or as a separate detail item. Here's a LINK to Tichy's catalogue. The flatcar with wheel load is kit #4023, and #3004 and #3010 are kits for eight wheelsets and 96 wheelsets respectively.
I built the flatcar with homemade removeable wood sides to use as a MoW department car:
...then used the Tichy wheelsets and the supplied racks for them, along with some styrene scraps, to make loads for a couple of gondolas. Because all of the parts are styrene, ordinary solvent cement (I use lacquer thinner) works well to bond the wheels to the racks, leaving the assembled load solid enough to add or remove from cars whenever you wish. While the Tichy load is intended to make a two-level load, I made two single level loads, one to fit a 41' Accurail gondola:
...and a longer load to fit cars 50' and longer:
The wheelsets are to-scale, with ribbed backs and accurately-contoured axle ends and are moulded in a rust colour, as are the wheel racks . You'll need to assemble the wheels onto the axles. I haven't yet bothered to paint mine to remove the plastic shine.
Wayne
C,
The E-6000 is not an epoxy. It's clear and can be used by just sticking things together with it or by using it as a contact cement by coating the bonding site, then letting dry for a couple of minutes before carefully placing the items together. It also stays flexible.
I used it to glue ME track down on my lower level hidden tracks, as it was lots easier than spiking! It's partially self-leveling, so as long as I kept the dot I placed ever 6" or so on top of the ties small, it would level enough to clear between the rails as it settled. Don't know if it's the same as Delrin, but the ME ties are slippery plastic and it worked well enough sticking them down.
Here's a link:
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ae6.htm
Have you tried the Testors Red tube "airplane" glue? Goop in small quntities should hold too, especially if given just a little roughage to work from. If you're glueing to a removable wood deck try the Testors Green tude for Wood and Metal. It works pretty good for securing the plastic to wood too.
I think that the nine or ten bucks for the Tichy wheels is a pretty good deal. They look a whole lot better than the ones which you're using. I still use plastic wheels on most of my rolling stock, but had a pretty good supply of old Train Miniature and Walthers wheels that were wobbly and out-of-round which were being used as scrap loads and scenic details. Most are now gone, as they look really clunky next to the Tichy ones. Most of those defective wheelsets were replaced with plastic ones - I have metal wheels on much of the newer stuff on the layout, but am not a big fan of them - they're too noisy and the shiny treads really draw attention to the fact that they're grossly over-width.
Seems to me that you have already spent more $$$ experimenting with different types of glue,adhesives & solvents than you would have on the Tichy wheels And as mentioned before...they are more realistic looking than "salvaged" ones
Were you planning on grinding the points off the axles to make them look more realistic?
Again sems to me Tichy is the way to go..but thats just me
Hi!
Why do you need to glue these in the first place? The only reason I can think of is so that you can pull the insert out of the gon as one big section.
Otherwise, put in some prototype blocking and place them in separately. If done right, they won't go anywhere on their own. And if they are free, you can remove them at will.
Probably not an acceptable answer, but its an alternative.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Good to hear that you found a suitable solution, Ron.
Hello,
I'm on board with Doc Wayne, although it does not take much to affix someing 'right now,' the long term is something althogether different. -I had some real nice locos in another room, but I sneezed real hard over here, -& you should of seen the accessories laying about the track!!!!
That being said, every day is a learning experience & we endeavor to build & improve upon it.Those Tichy flat cars with the wheel sets are almost a bonus, we get a great flat car & a whole bunch of great accessories!!!
Just my thoughts ...