The "old school" way to do this is chuck the wire into a drill and use a file to make a point on the end of the drill, then to grind a flat spot across the end, halfway through the wire. These will cut through thin, soft materials. In a pinch a finishing nail will work as a drill in softer woods.
The advantage of the gound point is it won't wobble as much as it cuts and makes a smoother, more accurate hole. On the other hand if you are drilling holes with piano wire, smooth, precision holes may not be your highest priority. 8-)
I have also found that some tool/drill vendors sell resharpened carbide machine bits for small numbered drills. These have a 1/8" shaft with a small diameter bit. I have miniature drill press, but even with that getting a #78 drill bit centered in the chuck was difficult, resulting in the bit wobbling and breaking. With the machine bits, the 1/8" shaft is easier to chuck and the bits have a plastic collar with the drill number on it so its easy to tell which bit is which. Downside of these bits is the metal is brittle so they are difficult to use without a drill press.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I have purchased several sets of resharpened carbide bits from Harbor Freight Tools. I usually wait for these to go on sale. Last time I got 20 assorted bits for around $5. It took me awhile to figure out how to use these bits by hand without breaking them. I eventually found that the best way to hold the bit against the work surface is to use only the tip of my left hand index finger on the 1/8" diameter end of the bit. I then carefully turn the bit using my right hand index finger and thumb against the plastic indentification collar. If I let the sides of both hands rest against the work surface and/or workbench, I find I am able to minimize introducing enough lateral force against the bit to break it. Light pressure applied to the top of the bit by my left hand index finger is plenty to drive the bit into the work surface. The fingers of my right hand only turn the bit. Don't forget to be patient and go slow!
Hornblower
If you want to avoid breaking the small drill bits i.e. #72 - 80, chuck them so the bit barely protrudes from the chuck. It should be just long enough to go through the material you are drilling but no more. That reduces the tendancy for the bit to flex sideways, which is what breaks the bit.
I am not referring to the machining bits with the 1/8" shaft and I am not referring to the use of a drill press. I am referring to the regular straight shaft bits which most of us use in a regular pin vise.
Try it - it works!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter If you want to avoid breaking the small drill bits i.e. #72 - 80, chuck them so the bit barely protrudes from the chuck. It should be just long enough to go through the material you are drilling but no more. That reduces the tendancy for the bit to flex sideways, which is what breaks the bit. I am not referring to the machining bits with the 1/8" shaft and I am not referring to the use of a drill press. I am referring to the regular straight shaft bits which most of us use in a regular pin vise. Try it - it works! Dave
And if I MIGHT ADD,,,, let the bit do the work, don't press too hard,, sometimes people get into a rush to get the hole drilled..
Cheers,
Frank
Good point Frank!
I would also add that if the bit does not cut into the material fairly easily then the odds are that you have an improperly ground bit. Toss it and try a new one.