I'm not going to try to cull out the previous posts, with so many problems trying to access this forum.
Update getting the marker lights working on the Nickel Plate Products NKP 4-6-4.
The colors can be changed to red/green/white/yellow, only RGW needed here.
I have been working on the number boards, no pics yet, some tries and fails and successes came down to using a micro-LED premounted on a pc board and placing it inverted in the hollowed out Rivarossi NKP number board. Not using the original brass ones.
Its close, I have numbers almost ready to mount, so pics may be soonish, the ordeal is coming to light now and not bad looking. Its a learning curve and I still think improvements can be done, but a good result is coming out from these efforts. Above pic was done weeks ago but couldnt get on here.
New pics fairly soonish.
Dinwitty:
Well done! We will look forward to your updates.
I have a similar project underway right now. Thanks for the inspiration.
A few detail shots of how you are doing the number boards would be very helpful.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I presume you're operating TTTO. "Second or more sections following?
Actually, you need green, white and black* on those classification lights. Markers (red-green or red-yellow) would only be shown in that location if the locomotive was proceeding tender-first, either running light or as a rear-end pusher.
Nice work getting them illuminated. Should make life easier for your station agents and the crews of opposing trains.
* Why black? Because a train running as a single section (or the last section of a train running in sections) did not show marker lights or carry flags. (Since every train I run has its own dedicated timetable slot my locos don't even have brackets to hold marker lamps. Sections and extras just don't happen in Japanese practice.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Well I assume if they are LEDs and can be switched between red, green, and white they can also be switched 'off'
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
you can turn them off (black)
I am using Champ BugBoards (white on black) for the numbers, I laid one on cardstock, worked but tried the next, had problems, so I found some translucent plastic (thin white plastic sheet) to put the decal on, thats more reliable and enough light will get through. Champ is out of business now, but I found a new source for bugboards.
http://www.shellscale.com/numberboard%20page.htm
Its not possible to get a red/green -red/yellow here (but I am running 2 fibres up to the lamp, would have to add a 2nd LED) so an adaptive to the rules would be accepted.
I am using the QSI Titan decoder, but a function decoder can do this as well in tandem to other decoders.
tomikawaTT Actually, you need green, white and black* on those classification lights. Markers (red-green or red-yellow) would only be shown in that location if the locomotive was proceeding tender-first, either running light or as a rear-end pusher.
I don't think that even if running backwards the marker lights would be displayed where the classification signals are. Diagrams that I've seen in rule books during the steam era for a steam engine running backwards show the display of the proper class signals in the usual place and the marker lights carried on the pilot deck.
Jeff
if you had to do an extended backward manuever and the engine front is the rear of the train red markers will be displayed. Running light you may put white markers up on the tender.
depending on operating circumstances if moving a cut of cars and no caboose on rear you may pop a fusee on the coupler. That would be interesting today with these micro LED's and teeny batteries you could simulate fusees.
dinwitty SNIP That would be interesting today with these micro LED's and teeny batteries you could simulate fusees.
SNIP
That would be interesting today with these micro LED's and teeny batteries you could simulate fusees.
If you really want to "get small" , my buddy Laurie McLean has a useful how-to book on using SMD and other LEDs:
http://www.quickpicbooks.com/MMR/Electric/SMLED_1/SMLED_Book.html
Marker lights, brakemen with swinging lit lanterns, etc are described. Gotta have steady hand and patience for this work, along with some tools, techniques, and materials. But the results are really stunning.
I like that fusee idea. Near the couplers would likely look right it you set the resistance up for the LED to be intense.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL