ChadLRyan,
I found your post from a couple mounts ago about some of the HO farm tractors, and I have a few questions.
1) How did you make your decals for your Farmall M? I'm guessing you used print your own decal paper, but could you explain to me more about what you did?
2) Is your M just the GHQ one, or the Life like one, or a combo of both, that you customized/detailed?
3) Is the loader frame on your John Deere (Athearn B?) scratch built, and are the rear tires/wheels original, or applied from a different manufacture?
4) Have you found any one besides Bush Gmbh &Co Kg who sells rear tractor tires/wheels only (Walthers part no 189-49953)? My experience with many pre 1965 tractors, is if I had a source for rear tires, I could build my own model with a tape measure, the real tractor, and a scale ruler.
I agree with you 100%, the lack of anything but John Deere, a hand full of other early American tractors, and European is annoying! And yet with the ones avaible, I think I have enough for an HO scale tractor show, but still want more
Tractor,
FYI: It will be quicker if you PM (private message) Chad directly through his profile page. Just click on the Start Conversation link up at the top right of the page, paste your text in the text box, then click the Start Conversation button. The Messages text in your profile box on the right side of the main page will change to red when Chad replies.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks, I'll try that. I'm more active on tractor form, and there the common way to reach out to another member is to just post their name in the subject line, plus the question.
Chad has an ego larger than you can imagine.
Fear not, he will respond here.
Rich
Alton Junction
Howdy, my apologies for being offline for a bit. With my work schedule now I don't always get a change to check in or model like I used to.Let me begin addressing your questions;
1) How did you make your decals for your Farmall M? I'm guessing you used print your own decal paper, but could you explain to me more about what you did?Those are not actual M Decals, Honestly, they are strips of N Scale Freight Car Data, I think it says 'Load LMT' on one side, the 'M' is a dry transfer in a circle that was approiate.
2) Is your M just the GHQ one, or the Life like one, or a combo of both, that you customized/detailed?The 'Wide M' was a Life Like, I added the light bar, wire details, & customized front end. I have not finished my GHQ ones yet. I also punch out & add through axles, & I know they are way too wide & need to be trimmed down.
3) Is the loader frame on your John Deere (Athearn B?) scratch built, and are the rear tires/wheels original, or applied from a different manufacture?That is an Athearn B, & they are stock wheels & tires, but I rubbed some oil paint into them to bring up some character, also detailed with wire bits, etc. Yes, I did Scratch build the Lader assembly, I patterened off one that is on my Dad's 'H'(FarmHand?) & felt it was appropriate. I have buckets for it, but they are all not just right in size or shape, so I image it is in 'row crop' duty. 4) Have you found any one besides Bush Gmbh &Co Kg who sells rear tractor tires/wheels only (Walthers part no 189-49953)? My experience with many pre 1965 tractors, is if I had a source for rear tires, I could build my own model with a tape measure, the real tractor, and a scale ruler.I have not, for a while I bought sets of the replacement tires for the Road Grader by LoneStar, but they are not the profle you may need. I have not gotten that set, thanks for reminding me!
Thanks for asking!!! & I hope I can help, keep the questions coming if I did not cover everything.
Thanks, that is everyting I was carious about based on the two photos you posted. I have slowly been ammassing a colletion of HO tractors and equipment myself, so Im always looking for more ideas, scale bases, and parts. The hardest part, is Ive leared most of what I want I have to make myself nearly entirally from scrathc, and that requires the real thing to take measurments off of, and whale I'm at college at the University of Arizona, thats not easy.
Must say, the decals you've used sure look better than nothing.
I'm not real fimilar with the one disk shown, so I don't know if you made the drag on the back or not, but you might be intrested to know, for a drag behind his real disk, my dad uses a lenght of steel rail road track, chained to drag, carried ontop of the frame when not in the feild.
I think I will post that picture here again, so other folks know what we are talking about.Yes, I wanted to add that little visual interest on the 'M,' & unless you get real darn close it 'sort of' works.The disk is an Athern too, I want to say around 2006 release, & I used some HOn3 Under Car Truss Supports & more Phosphor-Bronze wire to make an extension, with some styrene stips. the actual bar with tines, are carefully cut & bent Brass Walkway material for Detail Associates, (Stainless from Plano) to represent a drag/clod buster attachment. I also believe I made the hydralic cylinder from bits of tube & added a line. It is excessively fragile, if I stare at it hard, -it will curl up...... I also cut the existing wheel spuds off & repositioned them to lower the unit to almost tilling depth. The model comes/came at highway tow height.
Thanks again for the compliments, I do appreciate it!!! Feel free to bounce ideas, or look for parts or item sources, I have tried to keep up, but there are always new surprizes. I like to model if I think I can make something cool, or if it can fill a need.Thanks again!!
I'm very fimiliar with making hydralic cylnders, I use brass or Aluminium tube from the hobby store, and ither nessel a smaller diameter inside, or cut a peice of sheet brass with a pin hole drilled in it, glued to one end to hold in a slik pin, and then make a mount to keep the bin within the tube, and then cut off, and bend so that the remaneder is the mobile portion of the cylnder, and the bend is my sestem of attahing to the other end. In Short, with a little care, I produce real looking cylnders, that do expand and contract, and actually have enough slop in them to hold the item in any desired position. I'll post pictures after Thanksgiving, as I currently can't find any that show the entire design and its abiltiys.
Off hand, I can't think of anything else that I can ask or offer that is benificial for the making of better HO agrecultural models.
Again great job, and thanks for the input on your tequniques.