I posted this question I guess a few years ago. As anyone found a easy way to take these monster apart? OK, easy would be a 2 pound hammer. OK, anyone know the correct way? I think I sucked up some metal in to the speakers, plus I have never oiled the motor or gears in the trucks.
Thanks for the coming help, I hope.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Cuda,
I had my speakers start to 'rattle' about a year ago. If yours is doing this, your speakers have sucked up some small metallic particles. You need to remove the gunk and the rattling will cease.
All you do is take off a bunch of screws on the bottom of the locomotive. You dont have to remove the shell. First step, place a small white sheet, cloth,or towel over your work area. This will save you alot of time searching for errant screws that get away during this process. The screws are tiny and black, so they show up easily on a white cloth/sheet.
Turn the loco upside down, and cushion it with some bubble wrap. Start removing screws until you can take the fuel tank parts off and get to the speaker. Memory serves me that there are like 4 medium sized screws, then 8 small screws to remove and then you sould be able to pull apart the fuel tank and get to the speakers. Once you have the speakers removed, just carefully remove the debris with a soft cloth or small magnet. Then just reassemble in reverse order. Test your loco and she should be good as new.
Brad
Cuda, BTW, I hate rust too.
I started with an undec version and added soundtraxx and had a few problems too--a few years ago.
1.The best I can remember I started by taking the radiator off and the screws under.
2. Undid the the screws underneath, coupler boxes, etc.
3. Pull up from the rear and shove forward a little to avoid problems with lights up front. This may bend the rear LED slightly, but that's easily pushed back when reassembled before adding the radiator.
4. Shell to weight clearance is tight sometimes.
Richard
Thank you for the answers.
"Turn the loco upside down, and cushion it with some bubble wrap. Start removing screws until you can take the fuel tank parts off and get to the speaker. Memory serves me that there are like 4 medium sized screws, then 8 small screws to remove and then you sould be able to pull apart the fuel tank and get to the speakers. Once you have the speakers removed, just carefully remove the debris with a soft cloth or small magnet. Then just reassemble in reverse order. Test your loco and she should be good as new."
Brad, does yours have two screws between the speakers? Mine does and it seems to hold in the motor. My fear would be not being able to get the screws backing into the motor mount holes. If you where able to get the motor screws in, I should be able as well.
Richard, your way is the same as BL told me few years ago. While I was able to get it apart, I had to send it to them to get the shell back on. Any tips on getting the shell back on?
Thanks again for your time.
Ken
Does the instruction sheet have an exploded vieew? I thought BLI did this, at least, they did for their PCM branded locos.
Oh, they do: http://www.broadway-limited.com/support/explodedview/BlueLine%20AC6000%20Exploded%20View%20Diagram.pdf
Only thing I can see that could hold the shell on there are the couplers plus a pair of tabs on the side of the hood.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Yes those two screws do help hold the motor in place. It wont fall out or fall out of the drive as long as ou keep the shell on. Your on the right path...Its pretty straightforward. Youre not going to 'screw' anything up by taking out those two screws to access the speakers; the tighten right back up when you finish the cleaning and put the screws back in.
Cuda Ken,
As best I can recall I had to file down the sides of the weights a little. The fit between the shell and metal around the motor (weights) is too tight.
Thanks for all the answers folks! I will take a crack at it on my next day off.
OK Brad, I tried to pull the motor screw's but they would not come out like they where stripped. I tried to pry while I was unscrewing them and still could not get them out of there holes. I all so lifted the tank at the same time, still would not come out? Yet, I could feel them tighten back up when I gave up?
Sure wish BLI made the 6000's like they did the RSD 15. Does not pull as well, but easy to work on and sounds great!
Any ideas?
Ken,
Sorry, I really dont know what to tell you. I think your doing everything right. The speaker enclosure/fuel tank does come apart, it just takes some coaxing. The motor should be/loose when you do that though. Once you get it apart, the cleaning takes all of a minute to remove the metallic debris the speakers sucked up. Then just put it all back together.
Maybe use a magnet and try to pull them out of their holes when they are loose? I dont remember it being difficult repair job.