Tired of tipping over bottles of cement, glues, etc? Me too. So I made a bottle holding fixture. The larger holes were drilled with a spade (paddle) bit, and the one for the SuperGlue was started with regular bits, then shaped with a Dremel. The strips underneath give added stability.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
That is a good suggestion.
I know from experience what can happen when a solvent bottle is spilled. A few years ago I was working on an Atlas turntable making it into a pit style instead of a flat deck. One evening I knocked over a bottle of styrene cement without noticing, and then went merrily off to bed. The next evening when I sat down at the work bench I noticed that there were some rather strong glue fumes. Then I noticed the bottle on its side! The glue had run directly under the bottom of the turntable. When I turned the turntable over the bottom was a rubbery mess. I made the decision to put the turntable back on its bottom and let it sit for a few days with the window open. Miraculously the turntable survived, although it turned out to be so noisey with the Atlas motor and so unprototypical with it stopping at every track, it will never see the light of day on my layout.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I did something similar to that for spray painting. There was no way for me to temporarily set down an airbrush with a paint jar attached to it, without it tipping over. So I cut a 1" long section of Plastruct tubing with an inside diameter just slightly larger than the floquil paint jars I was using, and glued it to a piece of sheet styrene. That gave me a place to set the airbrush assembly when I needed both hands free.
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
I have a set of "hole saws" which attach to my power drill. The drill part is a disk with a set of concentric grooves, into which you can put the bits, which are sections of saw blades rounded into cylinders of various diameters. I think I picked up this set at the dollar table at a Local Hardware Store. It's got bits about every quarter inch from one inch out to about 3 inches. It's not something I use a lot, but when I need it for a big hole like that, it sure comes in handy. I've also got a single-diameter bit that came with a doorknob mechanism mounting kit.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Medina1128
Not sure I understand why you only have one strip underneath. Why not one at each end? I think I'd find the rocking back and forth a little frustrating.
Good job.
Richard
Content removed due to a completely frak'ed up and incompetent Kalmbach customer service.
His design is good. Having a strip at either end could result in one end being off the work table or wherever else it's set. But the way he has it set up makes it stable even in that event. I like it.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Thanks for the reminder Marlon, it's a good idea. I had one like it years ago when I flew R/C airplanes. I think I'll build me another.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Svein maxman: Not sure I understand why you only have one strip underneath. Why not one at each end? I think I'd find the rocking back and forth a little frustrating. It looks like he has another set of strips perpendicular to the first, making the strips form a cross underneath, so there shouldn't be any rocking. Two parallell strips, one on each end, may be even more stable, but his solution should work just fine. Svein
maxman: Not sure I understand why you only have one strip underneath. Why not one at each end? I think I'd find the rocking back and forth a little frustrating.
It looks like he has another set of strips perpendicular to the first, making the strips form a cross underneath, so there shouldn't be any rocking. Two parallell strips, one on each end, may be even more stable, but his solution should work just fine.
Svein
Okay, me bad. When I looked at the photo I interpreted that horizontal board edge as a trough along the bottom rather than the raised edge of the piece. I see it now.
MisterBeasley I have a set of "hole saws" which attach to my power drill.
I have a set of "hole saws" which attach to my power drill.
I have some holes saw, too. I made a new fixture, this time without the "wings". With the bottles sitting lower in the holes, the weight of the 2x4 is plenty. With the hole saws, I drilled all the way through, then glued a piece of 1/4" plywood to the bottom. The problem with the paddle bit was that without being able to drill the hole with a drill press (don't have one, yet) the bottom of the hole wasn't square. I found it easier to drill the holes perpendicular to the wood with the hole saw than with the paddle bit.
Thanks for the tip, MB!
I think that the only thing more annoying than glue is tipping over that jar of paint you just finished mixing, (the last little bit of that color you have) and the hobby shop is just closed for a three day weekend. I like it I think I will have to make a few or perhaps one long one with several holes. Thanks for the neat idea Marlon.
Neil
widetrack I think that the only thing more annoying than glue is tipping over that jar of paint you just finished mixing, (the last little bit of that color you have) and the hobby shop is just closed for a three day weekend. I like it I think I will have to make a few or perhaps one long one with several holes. Thanks for the neat idea Marlon. Neil
One thing more annoying is spilling the last of that color, and your rolling stock is right where the puddle ends up. Or spilling the plastic cement and not realizing it until you've glued a car to the top of your work bench. Don't ask how I know either of these.