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The Coffee Shop (a place to chat) Est. 2004
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Afternoon all. Have spent most of today chasing round campus trying to sign up for the assorted seminars I need to be in - university bureaucracy is a real pain as they seem to combine an inflexibility that would not have been out of place in Stalinist Russia with the organisational skills of a small bird... Have managed to get the slots I needed though, so all sorted for another term! <br /> <br />Interesting comments about snow. One thing I've noticed is the "poser" 4x4 owners who really haven't a clue how to handle their shiny new truck. Come the snow, they assume it will cover for them and enable them to drive normally, this usually lasts until they discover that 4wd doesn't help with braking on sheet ice... Those of us who have some off-road experience respond to snow by saying "yay!" and heading out to enjoy some free off-road driving where the main road usually is. Two words for snow that few people over here seem to know: engine braking. Our driving test doesn't cover anything but perfect tarmac though, hence the hordes of clueless individuals needing hauling out of hedges, ditches, etc! <br /> <br />I've been investigating a weird passenger car lighting circuit of late (with a view to fitting it for DCC). It's a Rowa (now Roco, or so I've read) German driving trailer, wired so the headlights come on when pushing the car, and the tail-lights when hauling. It also has interior lighting, so my first thought was "Lenz function-only decoder, set it up so F0 = tail lights, F1 = headlights and F2 = interior lighting". Not that simple though! The car appears to use miniature fluorescent tubes for lighting - they're about the size of a domestic fuse. These are wired to a small red box which seems to be an incapsulated circuit of some type, which presumably controls the directional lighting. What I'm not sure about is if this box is essential to running the tubes or if I can just rewire it when I put the decoder in - anyone have any ideas? Also need to know if I need any resistors to stop the tubes over-heating - they got a bit warm when tested briefly so could probably do with some!
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