I am trying to determine the best way to incorporate a second and possibly third loco into my main line run. I have a DCC CSX loco that is the main work horse. For appearances, I would like to add one or possibly two more locos behind her, but only want them to be dummies.
Is the best approach to try to dismantle working DC locos so they are just like rolling stock ???
any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
thanx,
B&O Bradley
Dummy locos are hard to find these days. You could just remove the motor and drive shaft and make a dummy of any loco.
If it were me, I would take an 'on-hand' loco & disconnect one of the motor leads, & then remove the the trucks & gear covers, & take out the the gears that connect to the axle gear drives. Then if you need to put that unit back into 'powered' service just add the drive gears & connect the motor lead & it is ready to pull. (The gear removal is esential to make it more 'free' rolling, as in a tow situation)..
Just my thoughts...
If you're starting with a DC loco, why not add a decoder and run both powered units? After all, you've paid for the motor and gears, and the cost of a simple motor decoder is pretty small relative to the cost of a locomotive. Having a second powered unit also gives you the benefit of having lights at both ends of your consist should you decide to run it in reverse rather than turning it.
A powered engine is heavy. If you're going to "neuter" one, you'll want to take out the whole drive train, including the motor. Otherwise you'll be pulling around a lot of dead weight.
I have several dummy locomotives on my layout, However, they started as dummies, or they are old engines which no longer work, so removing the guts doesn't result in any loss. I've put sound and lights in a couple of them, which adds an extra dimension.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Now I know why it is so hard to find any of this stuff on the secondary market. There really is none.I am into static displays and I hate pay for a working locomotive. I bet the manufactures throw them out all the time.
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Do some browsing on eBay and/or join the HOYardSale group on Yahoo. You can find shells and/or cheap broken locos that you can turn into dummies.
Rich
Alton Junction
For many years Athearn made all of their engines available as powered units or dummies, so it shouldn't be that hard to find ones on Ebay or local RR flea markets.
If you have a particular model in mind, you could check with the manufacturer's website or send them an e-mail to see whether they sell parts. You may not be able to get a dummy, but you might be able to buy a body shell, a chassis, and the trucks as separate items and assemble your own dummy.
One thing to consider is the reason for dummies goes back before DCC when it could be a chore to try to speed-match two engines. It often required using resistors and a lot of trial-and-error. It was easier if you wanted to run two engines together to just have a powered one and a dummy. With DCC, you can speed match them using the speed and momentum CVs so that the two engines start, run and stop as one unit...so as noted earlier by someone, it really wouldn't make sense to buy a powered unit and take the "guts" out of it to make a dummy if you're in DCC.
The down side to dummies, especially the BB ones, are they really don't roll all that well. They can not compare to rolling stock at all.
I have a fleet of them and wanted to use them just as are asking and to make simple double headed power for turns. If you have any curves (mine =/> 24" in HO ) or any grade you can figure on adding one powered unit to pull each dummy plus what ever you need for the train. They really were never designed to be free wheeling so they really roll that bad. Ii have yet to find anything that will improve this
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
Have to disagree with ratled a little. I have an old BB dummy, my kids first (and only) train set. It rolls very freely, any slope and it is off down the hill. It was well weighted, not sure if NMRA standards, but enough to keep it from being pulled off the rails. I've got some cars that, even with a tune up, don't roll as well.
It may be a fluke, but there are some easy rollers out there.
Have fun,
Richard
First of all, thanx to all that took the time to assist a rookie......Much Appreciated.
With regards to replys regarding the DCC version of adding dual powered locos........I would love to try this, but was not certain that you could speed match multiple DCC equipped locos.....again, please remember I am a beginner but very willing to learn.
This is my first layout, but being an electrician by trade, along with a lot of other mechanical skills......my first layout is going to be a multi layer, 16X16 "U" shaped walk around with twin helix corners, a round house and at least 3-4 running DC consists. I know........large undertaking for a rookie, but I have never backed down from anything, that is why I am a sponge at this point.
Please forgive the run on, but I am very excited to learn and appreciate all the input you fine gentlemen have provided. Any further input on multiple DCC locos on the same consist would be greatly appreciated.
B&O Bradley. Any further input on multiple DCC locos on the same consist would be greatly appreciated.
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What type of CSX diesel are you trying to match? Who manufactured the one you have and what type of diesel is it?
Speed matching is not that hard and if you have two locos from the same make, they should be very close to start with or just a little bit of fine tuning. I find that building an MU in the rail yard is fun, drive one loco to a spot, then then next, and then the next and then take the set and drive them to the cut of cars you are about to pull and when you are done, break them down, some go another cut cars, another engine might have to hit the service shop and the next might go to the RIP/ storage track- much like it would happen in the real world and you would not be able to do that with dummy locos.
Speed matching in DCC isn't hard but be aware there is no "magic formula" for doing it, it's more of a trial-and-error thing. If you take two identical engines and program the CVs exactly the same, they might not run exactly the same. You may need to speed one up or slow one down a little, or add more or less momentum until they run as one.
I've always had an isolated section of track on my layout that I can use for programming, so that I don't have to keep picking up the engine and moving it to an off-layout programming track to change something. A simple DPDT switch switches the track section from programming to regular DCC.
When people ask "Why is DCC better than DC?" one of the talking points is the ability to speed-match engines without much effort. I've speed-matched several sets of engines. It's a pretty easy thing to do, and just as easy to undo. Don't worry that it will be a show-stopper. For two engines that are not pathalogically far apart in performance, it's an easy half-hour job, and almost all of that time is spent watching the engines run around to see how well they perform together, and what still needs to be tweaked.
If you're going to have a helix, you will appreciate the extra pulling power of an all-powered consist. You can do a lot with a single-engine train on a flat railroad, but as soon as you add grades your power requirements will go up considerably.
Again, thanx to all who have posted comments.....this is truly helpful.
The loco I am trying to match is a....
I don't know what your budget is like, but there are some brand new ones on eBay for right around $50.
Since you are modeling CSX and its predecessors, I would sure encourage you to buy a second Dash 8-40C. You csn lash them up and run them as a consist or run the two units individually. Either way, they would look very cool on your layout. I say, Go For It.