Micro Mark has the motor listed but has been on back order for a good 6 months now.
http://www.micromark.com/FLAT-CAN-MOTOR,8270.html
You will need to do a copy and past on the link, I have yet to figure to make a live link with Fire Fox.
Any idea where I might pick up this motor? Micro Mark does have a different motor listed with flywheels and drive shafts for $30. I need 2 so the other deal would be better if they ever got them in stock.
Any one have a number for Proto parts department? Getting ready to do a goggle search now.
Thanks for the coming answers.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Proto is LifeLike, and LifeLike is Athearn. Did you try Athearn?
maxman Proto is LifeLike, and LifeLike is Athearn. Did you try Athearn?
Proto is owned by Walther's is it not?
A replacement motor will cost $25 to $30. You can buy a new F3 on E-bay or at a train meet for that money and just swap the shells..You will have a whole new loco.
TRY HELIX-HUMPER. GOOD MOTORS, GOOD PRICE, GOOD PEOPLE.
BAYOUMAN
cudaken maxman: Proto is LifeLike, and LifeLike is Athearn. Did you try Athearn? Proto is owned by Walther's is it not?
maxman: Proto is LifeLike, and LifeLike is Athearn. Did you try Athearn?
Oh, poobah. Yes, you are correct. Don't know where my head was, but let me bring it out to see the sunshine.
Ken,
Unfortunatly what "Nedthomas" stated is 100% correct, you can buy the entire engine cheaper than you can buy a new motor off of Ebay or at a train show.
Perhaps you just need new "brushes" if you have a lot of run time on it, they shouldn't be very expensive.
And if you go to a train show just look for one of the older Proto's with the cracked gears. There are still a lot of people that don't know what to do with them when the gears crack so that is your opportunity to pick one up cheap.
I'd check the brushes before I bought a new motor though.......
Mark
Mark, how do you get to the brushes? I am all so more inclined to think I either cooked the winding or lost the bearings. 3 of F3's ate there decoders after 400 plus hours. I tested one motor and it sounded pretty bad and ran slow out of the engine.
Far as going to a train show, I work ever weekend so don't think I will be getting to one anytime soon. E Bay, I rather have new motors. I do have 3 sets of F 3 (great Engines)
Ken
Have you considered the HM-5 project motor from Kato? Item #31-500. Here's a link to the page. HM-5. Just scroll down the page to Custom Project Items.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I had thought about it Jeffery, shaft sizes is the same. But not knowing anything about metric I don't know if it would fit.
PS I think I have a box for the stuff I am sending.
400+ hours on them, my money would be on the brushes or the "tension" springs that hold the brushes in place. The brushes ride on the commutator and should be visable, I beleive there is a clip that holds them in place that you have to remove. One on the top of the motor and one on the bottom of the motor.
Give it a try, if they're junk anyhow what have you got to loose? As long as the motor bearings are alright and the armature isn't damaged brushes or the tension springs are about all it could be as it only has "one" moving part anyhow and that's the armature shaft.
The motors used in P1K diesels have their brushes mounted on small arms that double as springs. I've found the tension for this type of setup is perfect when, with the armature removed, the brushes are spaced apart at the same width as the bearing hole. It's pretty easy to bend them once the motor's open.
If the motor is indeed bad, pretty much any 18 x 33mm motor with double 2mm shafts should fit with little modification.
EDIT: Bear Locomotive is currently selling 18 x 33mm motors for less than $6 each. These are the same motors used by BLI. Not quite as good as Canon or Mashima motors, but still great runners!
_________________________________________________________________
I think Darth Santa Fe just gave you a very workable solution, at less than $6 each it's almost not worth messing with the brushes as it is always a possibility that the bearing could be the culprit as well.
And, at less than $6 each I would suggest you order some "spares" while you're at it, why pay for postage twice if you have to order more of them?
Good call there Darth Santa Fe!!
Thank You Darth and others.
Darth, have 6 on the way. Do I need engine cradels? Do you think the motors will kit the Stweart's? They are not the KATO motors.
I think Kato motors are a little smaller in diameter than most others, so you may have to do something else if they don't seat right. It's common to use RTV when mounting a can motor in brass, since you can put in whatever you need and it will dampen vibration. There may be other good methods too.
Darth, the Stewart F 9's I have, have Buehler Motors. You know any thing about them?
By the way, how do you tell the size of the shaft? Are you using a Mic, or maybe a metric drill bite gauge.
Being a master of engine building, how about a posting about engine swapping for a complete idiot. Everything from motor ID, shaft sizes, mounting and bushings so smaller shafts will fit bigger holes in flywheels or U joints like you did in my Dash 8.
Still a great running engine, dragging a coal train as I miss spell! Still one of my go to engines thanks to you!
I have Buehler motors that came stock in a couple of my Athearn Genesis engines and my Spectrum 2-10-0. The larger ones in the Genesis aren't the best in terms of noise, but they are smooth and powerful. I don't know of anyone that sells them separately, except for maybe Bowser.
I usually just eyeball the shaft size. The most common right now is 2mm in HO (Mashima, Canon, Igarashi, Kato, Buehler, Micro-Mark, Bachmann, etc.), and 1.5mm in small HO and N. Athearn and O-sized motors use a 1/8" shaft (just over 3mm), and most Pittman style and larger HO motors (like Sagami or NWSL cans) have a 2.4mm shaft. Some of the really small motors have a 1 or 1.2mm shaft. Everything is pretty well standardized at this point, but I have seen some odd sizes (old Rivarossi uses a shaft of 2.1mm or so, and I have a KMT diesel with 2.5mm truck shafts).
I could post a topic on basic remotoring, with a list of motors and specs. Some might think that it's really difficult to take on a project like that, but a lot of times it really isn't.
I'm glad that DASH 8 is still running well! Sounds like it's held up better than some of the fixes on my own trains.
Darth,
What the heck is RTV? All of these abbreviations escape me, or am I supposed to say "excape" as is so popular these days..........
Forty Niner What the heck is RTV?
What the heck is RTV?
Darth, I think it would be great if you have the time to do such a posting.
On a Athearn RTR, with it having a 3mm shaft sizes and I want to use a Mashima motor. I would look for tubing with a 3 mm outside OD and A 2 mm inside ID correct? If so, who would sell such stock?
At one time we where talking about a flywheel puller and I think you gave me a link to Miro Mark. I did a keyword search on the site and could not find one listed. I did find a Wheel / Gear puller listed and it looks like the link I saw before. Is it the same thing?
Far as the Buehler, I don't understand why I have had two of them go bad in such a short time. Guess it was just the luck of the draw and I lost with them.
Looking forward to your answer Brandon, and thanks for all your help!
RTV =
For more info see: http://www.dowcorning.com/content/textiles/texind/Room-Temperature-Vulcanizing_Silicone_Elastomers.asp
MAXMAN,
Thanks............I assumed it was some sort of silicone adhesive product but again, all of these abbreviatios almost require a dictionary of their own.