Last night I threw a toggle to align a switch to run straight through, the Tortoise did its thing, but the train didn't go straight. It turned. (Senator Schumer will be calling for a federal investigation if he gets wind of this, so please don't tip him off!)
At first it appeared the Tortoise needed an adjustment. Perhaps somehow it was no longer able to reach far enough to throw the switch. Maybe some warping of the plywood, or that earthquake we had a couple weeks ago. But some deeper inquiry showed that the switch itself (Atlas Code 83) seemed to be sprung. But having no springs, that should be impossible. And yet, I could hand throw the switch points full travel only to have them spring back to the turn out position.
My sleuthing determined that the point rails were partially stuck. The culprit: my CMX Clean Machine!! My MOW Dept. used said machine filled with lacquer thinner. The liquid apparently seeped under the rails, melted the plastic ties and fused them to the movable point rails. Of all the switches on my layout, only that one seems to have been affected. And it is nowhere near the beginning of the usual run of the CMX.
My pike will soon be requesting proposals to replace its plastic ties with several thousand creosoted wood ties. Or maybe we will switch to Life-Like Track Cleaning Fluid.
Why not just use Alcohol?
Springfield PA
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Don't ask me but they use it on the modular layout, although the CMX car is followed by not one but THREE Centerline cars with Handi-wipes to wipe off and dry the rails.
Since I don't run anything with plastic wheels, it seems the only time I've ever had to really clean my track is after painting the rails, can't help but get some on the tops. And that was in an unfinished basement with bare concrete walls and floors, and no drop ceiling - exposed joists and insualtion above. I'm not sure why people sometimes have such trouble keeping their track clean. Run more trains, maybe?
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Immediately after laying a length of new track I gave it a full-blown GLEEM treatment.
The only track cleaning I've done since has been of two varieties:
I've never felt the urge, or had the need, to use any kind of liquid cleaner. Of course, I run trains almost every day, over almost every length of rail.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
You ask, why lacquer thinner? Well, it was recommended on this forum at about the time I purchased the CMX. And it has been a very effective cleaner, but obviously I have not controlled the flow well enough. But rather than fight the issue, I'll make the switch to alcohol. Guinness, maybe.
Just for the record, there is not a plastic wheel on my layout and hasn't been for years. Also every inch of track has been GLEEMED (why caps?), but it still tends to get dirty. It resides in an unfinished basement with a dusty floor. I wipe black residue from the rails almost daily. I wonder if lacquer thinner adds to the problem even as it cleans. If alcohol improves the situation I will let you know.
Hi Tpatrick.
Don't take the responses personal. They're just trying to help but sometimes the message typed doesn't appear as it would if spoken.
At the same time sometimes recommendations typed aren't the whole story. Acetone or similar products may be fine if applied with a cloth but not if in a cleaning car. If you did the gleam method, then you should only need a basic wipe now and then as long as your feeders are in order. Pick up some denatured alcohol. It will be all you'll ever need. I personally only use 91% isopropyl and have no problems but many swear by the denatured. Also people tend to have more bad results with track cleaning products than with basic solutions. Over time you'll learn what works best for you. This one is just a learning experience we all get. By the way how large is your layout? I ask because most layouts can be cleaned by hand with a lint free clot with the selected cleaning agent much faster than using a cleaning car.
These rails need to be "gleamed."
Mark
tpatrick Last night I threw a toggle to align a switch to run straight through, the Tortoise did its thing, but the train didn't go straight. It turned. (Senator Schumer will be calling for a federal investigation if he gets wind of this, so please don't tip him off!)
Must have turned to the right...
-George
"And the sons of Pullman porters and the sons of engineers ride their father's magic carpet made of steel..."
Nuh uh, I see a gleam in some eyes from those who may chop it up and ship to sell for scrap.
I make a wipe and discovered that windex on paper towels cleaned track adequately.
The first rule of course is always German Silver (Aka nickel silver today) never brass. And NO Plastic wheels anywhere on the rails. Ever.
Has anyone here used NO-OX on their tracks? I understand it's a very good solution to keep tracks clean.
No-OX
I may try some of this. Just don't know where to get it from? any suggestions?
Motley Has anyone here used NO-OX on their tracks? I understand it's a very good solution to keep tracks clean. No-OX I may try some of this. Just don't know where to get it from? any suggestions?
MotleyWhy were you using lacquer thinner to clean the track?
The instructions which come with the CMX machine explicitly recommend lacquer thinner, with alcohol as an "acceptable" substitute.
I've used both, and I find the lacquer thinner works better. Properly adjusted, there's hardly even any odor. (If you do smell it, you should check your drip rate.)
It's easier to pull the car around with lacquer thinner, too. I think the alcohol just gives more friction. The additional friction also wears out the cleaning pad more rapidly.
I have a few grade crossings where I used styrene painted with gray acrylic to model the roadway between the rails. Alcohol takes the paint off when the CMX machine goes over, while lacquer thinner does not.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Yes, we've used NO-OX at our HO scale club. Big mistake. We had to run the CMX Clean Machine around filled with lacquer thinner to get the sticky stuff back off the rail. NO-OX seemed like a wonderful product at first, but it soon attracted dirt like the proverbial magnet. If you try NO-OX, apply it extremely sparingly and let the train distribute it throughout the layout.
And now, back to our original discussion: If the OP melted crossties with lacquer thinner, he was using way, way too much of it. Even if the CMX stalled over the turnout for some reason the valve should not have been opened enough for the lacquer thinner to drip onto the ties unless it was left there for a considerable length of time. Like the old Brylcream commercial said, A Little Dab 'L Do Ya.
A spray of CRC after a good cleaning followed by a run of the trains will coat your tracks and require less cleaning as well.
HamltnblueA spray of CRC after a good cleaning followed by a run of the trains will coat your tracks and require less cleaning as well.
What is CRC? And where can I get it?
It's CRC 2-26 and cab be bought at Home Depot and probably Lowes. . I talked to a couple of members of this local club and they swear by it. They also talk about it on their forum.
http://www.gatsme.org/HintsTips.html
HamltnblueBy the way how large is your layout? I ask because most layouts can be cleaned by hand with a lint free clot with the selected cleaning agent much faster than using a cleaning car.
My layout is roughly 20' x 22' with about 300 feet of track. Sometimes I do clean it by hand, using an old white Tee-shirt. At various times I use lacquer thinner, alcohol, Life-Like cleaning fluid or just a dry cloth. Other times I would rather run a train. That's when the CMX car pushed by a pair of Atlas RS-1s goes into action. BTW, the gleaming really did improve operations even though the track still needs periodic cleaning. Engines that used to be hesitant now run smoothly with nary a flicker of the headlight. The only hitch now seems to be short wheelbase locos on insulfrog switches. That problem is being addressed with frog juicers or in some places electrofrogs.
Tim
Last Chance I make a wipe and discovered that windex on paper towels cleaned track adequately.
According to Gus Portokalos, Windex fixes everything
MisterBeasleyMotleyWhy were you using lacquer thinner to clean the track? The instructions which come with the CMX machine explicitly recommend lacquer thinner, with alcohol as an "acceptable" substitute. I've used both, and I find the lacquer thinner works better. Properly adjusted, there's hardly even any odor. (If you do smell it, you should check your drip rate.) It's easier to pull the car around with lacquer thinner, too. I think the alcohol just gives more friction. The additional friction also wears out the cleaning pad more rapidly. I have a few grade crossings where I used styrene painted with gray acrylic to model the roadway between the rails. Alcohol takes the paint off when the CMX machine goes over, while lacquer thinner does not.
Isn't there a flow control on the CMX track cleaner. My guess is that if that's what the instructions recommended, they probably tested it on handlaid track that uses either wood or fiber ties.
I learned a tip from my LHS when I was going to buy a bottle of RailZip. They told me to use regular ATF. Yes, you read it right, automatic transmission fluid. I apply a small (SMALL) dab of ATF applied with a Q-tip to each railhead every 20 feet or so. Then, I push a string of cars around the layout. I applied it about 4 months ago, and after not running trains for a couple of weeks, I can go down and my SW9/1200 will just creep around any part of my layout. Note: I DO have metal wheels on about 90% of my cars. I don't know how much cruddier plastic wheels might get. Oh, and my layout is in my basement; not the most dust-free environment.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR