After reading all the posts about gleaming, I thought I would give it a try. So I bought some 400 and 600 wet and dry paper , a few stainless steel washers and since I couldn't find any Mothers mag wheel polish I decided to use Mequiars all metal polish. I must say this really makes a difference. The rails I've gleamed have a mirror like finish. This may be a time consuming project ,but I think it's going to be time well spent. Also I noticed that holding the stainless steel washers was a little difficult so I applied a piece of adhesive backed velcro material to one side . Makes it much easier to control the washer. Thanks for all the info on this forum, it's greatly appreciated. Joe Voisin Sr
You're going to like the freedom you'll get from the cleaning chemicals and the special cars and other things required. I used the GLEAM process on my layout in 2006 and haven't had to do anything more strenuous than wipe the rails with a clean dry rag if I haven't run and trains in a long while. I have one track cleaning car on the layout. It's an old IHC track cleaning caboose and all it does is sit on a dead end spur. I don't know if it can still move anymore.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
So does one gleam before laying track or does one gleam after track is in place? This same question can also apply to weathering the rails and ties. Could it be done before then all you have to do is weather the ballast centers when done ballasting?
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Gleaming can be done before after the track is laid. Much of mine was done after the track was down and ballasted.
A different perspective on the topic. As one who has never sanded their track or used an abrasive track pad on it, I only need to wipe down my track maybe once a year at most with alcohol.
The problems folks run into is that they abrade the factory finish of their track during installation (e.g. sanding uneven joints), which then creates tiny grooves and ruts that trap dirt and grime. This - along with using smoke fluid and/or plastic wheels - only exacerbates the problem.
I deal with track unevenness at joints by either assuring a flat and smooth roadbed surface before installation by sanding, or by shimming the railroad tie closest to the joint with small pieces of 0.01" thick styrene after installation.
I would first encourage folks to NEVER abrade the factory finish of their track in the first place. However, for those who already have, it's nice to know that there is a method to seemingly rectify the issue. One might also argue that "gleaming" or burnishing the surface of your track will yield you a better quality finish to your track than what comes from the factory.
The other thing that has been helpful for me is switching all my rolling stock over from plastic to metal wheels, like Proto 2000.
Tom
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Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstageThe other thing that has been helpful for me is switching all my rolling stock over from plastic to metal wheels, like Proto 2000.
I gleam my track as soon as it's been approved for operation. Since I don't abrade the railhead (except on switch points) I skip the sandpaper and go directly to the Mother's Mag Wheel Polish and the big stainless washer. Actually two washers, one plain and one screwed to the end of a dowel.
The first rail I ever gleamed, close to four years ago, was taken up and relaid without being re-gleamed. It doesn't require anything more serious than an occasional wipe with a paper towel, just like all the rest of the other track I've laid.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
If I'd known about gleaming before I laid my track, I definitely would have done it first, if only to save myself the reach onto a couple of spots on my layout.
It works the same either way, though. And yes, any brand of metal polish should work just fine.
In my experience, though, the 'factory finish" can be just as marred as rail that has been sanded / filed. Many pieces of track on my layout were "factory fresh" when I gleamed them, and I still saw a huge difference.
As far as plastic wheels goes, I agree. I'm still trading them out, but I recently did a car that my father bought in the '60s. The plastic wheels were so worn that the flange was barely visible. Surely some of that gunk that they leave on your track is little shards of ground up plastic!
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