Hi Chris,
if it is only one passenger car from the entire train, I would check if the trucks are straight on the car that derails all the time. I bought 3 VIA 85 foot passenger cars from Walthers and one of them always jumped the tracks. It turned out that one of the trucks was twisted. Once straightened out it now runs fine.
Frank
"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."
Shep'sKCSrailroad1987i molded the passenger car for a 24'r as it say by walthers manual and my main line is 24'r . heres whats up the goes alone and derailers and one of the trucks jump off the track. can alone help me i dont want to rip up my track to fix the problem at hand. thank you chris
The golden rule of performance issues: everything derails, it's the track, one thing derails, it's the thing. Some sfuff derails but not others.... start thinking track. Pull out your standards gauge and start checking.
I know ripping up track is a pain, but if that turns out to be your problem, ruthlessly rip it up and relay it. Track problems never go away on their own, they just keep causing problems.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Walther's passenger cars are so correctly built to scale that they don't take curves very well until you get to a 30"+ radius. There are two things for you to do:
1. The trucks will hit the side frames in a curve. take a combination of a flat jeweler's file, a hobby knife, and some sand paper and whittle out the side frames where the trucks hit on the side.
2. Install the Kadee long center shank coupler # 26, 36, or 46 . (I like the #46 because it's all metal.) This will help the trucks and the car swing out further and negotiate the curve without yanking the other car from the rails....chuck
1. Loosen the screw that holds the truck in place. Sometimes they are down too tight which prevents the truck from freely swinging it's full extent
2. As someone mentioned, check to see if the truck is level from left to right. Take it off the heavyweight and zoom it around the track. See if any wheel lifts.
Although they are stated for R24" I find they work best with R28"+. Every once in a while I have issues at the club with R32"! with one or two cars.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
When you run items at the lowest claimed specs, you should expect problems due to the variances in quality control in assembly, and in preparations of parts for assembly. IMO, 24" is an unreasonable claim for Walthers to make for these otherwise very nice passenger cars. 28" would have been better for everyone's sake.
Apart from what has been said and suggested, it is also known that the electrical contacts under the car can interfere with truck swiveling. That needs to be investigated as well.
-Crandell
selectorit is also known that the electrical contacts under the car can interfere with truck swiveling.
Oh yeah, good point. Some people file the heads of the screws when they find burrs. You can also put some conducta-lube on the heads to make them slide easier (A side benefit is this improves the electrical contact for the light bars).
thank to you and every body for the help and it worked
Shep'sKCSrailroad1987 thank to you and every body for the help and it worked
by fixing one of the trucks on it the left was tiswted and on by joint in the track