"Superelevated Cuvres"

[TrainsRMe1]

Hey Guys,

   I know that Kato has the Superelevated cuvres that look real good, but I want to make my own superelevated cuvres with flextrack, can anybody show me step by step how to build one? I think there was a article on this topic in Modelrailroader, anyway thanks for the info, talk to you soon

                   Trainsrme1

[Anonymous]

 Hi Trainsrme1,

here is a link to a page, where you can find all the info on h2 super-elevate curves. Actually, it is really simple...

[cwclark]

As MD said it's simple. All I did to super elevate my outside rail is to cut small pieces of card stock and shove them under the outside rail between the ties and the roadbed. Once you test it out on a train or two, laydown the ballast. The ballast will cover the cardstock and you can't see it anymore.

[cwclark]

I see you live in the Portland Oregon area. You have one of the most skilled modelers in your area. Try to get hold of Joe Fugate. (He has a website if you do a search) His mushroom layout design is awesome and you can get some really great pointers from him if you get the chance to meet him one day.....chuck

[PA&ERR]

 The way I did/do it is to take a narrow strip of .040 plastic and cut it into small pieces about 1/4 of an inch long. Next I glue one of those little piece to the bottom of the flex track underneath the outside rail - one about every 4th to 6th tie seems to work best. This seems to work particularly well if you are using silicon adhesive to hold the track to the roadbed. Unlike cardboard strips, the plastic won't absorb glue or water when you go back to ballast your track. 

Good luck!

-George

[IVRW]

Put a slice of styrene under one side of the ties

[tomikawaTT]

Briefly, superelevation in small scales is purely cosmetic (an HO scale N&W J running 90mph is actually traveling about 3% above one actual mile per hour) but does give a, 'well-engineered railroad,' look to our model ROW.  It is best used in conjunction with spiral easements - which will contribute far more to smooth operation, even without superelevation.

If you want more information, just type superelevation into the Search Community block at right and select Model Railroader Forums in the block marked in.  I did, and got back 437 hits, of which 32 were mine.  (This will make 33.)

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with spiral easements and superelevation)

[BATMAN]

 I think super elevated curves are great. I used a rasp to build them right into my spline roadbed.            Elsewhere I used styrene, cereal box, tape or whatever got the job done after all it is going to be covered up. I did use this little level though to ensure consistency around the whole curve. I put a pencil mark where the bubble should stay as I moved it around the curve.

 

 

                                                                    Brent

                                                                

[Pruitt]

I've used the same method for years. Here's my description. I think this approach originated with Paul Dolkos, but he may have picked it up from someone else.

Anyway, these curves and more now have been down and in use for years with no problems.

[chpthrls]

All of the above have pretty well covered the subject. The only thing I would add (I've used both card stock and styrene strips) is that if using card stock, it should be covered with tape as it "waterproofs" the card stock. When you ballast the track, the card stock will soak up both wet water and alchohol. That's why I started using the styrene strips.                    Gerry S.  

[pjjkg]

I used playing cards cut lenghthwise from old decks. Next time I will use the plethora of credit cards we get in the mail. Cut lengthwise, overlap till you get the height you want.