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Floquil used to make, and very well may still make, a primer or base coat (avail. in a rattle can) called ''Foundation' which I believe was used as a primer for painting metal figures, and -this is real fuzzy- under their somewhat translucent wood stains like 'oak', 'walnut', etc'. I always use a very light spray of primer on almost everything, but especially metal pieces. It gives a bite to the surface to be topcoated. Always use primer and top coat from the same manufacturer, although I've had good results using an acrylic (water based) over an enamel or vice- versa, esp. if I'm weathering, shading, or detailing one color or colors over another larger field of color. Washes made up of India ink and alcohol may enhance what you are trying to do. Different clear topcoats are helpful to minimize the separations between colors or to blend in weathering effects, esp. if dry pastels or ashes (one of the most frequently used weathering mediums I use) are used. My does-it-all, all time favorite clear is Testor's 'Dull Coat' in a rattle can. Dave Frary has an excellent book that covers these subjects and lots more in great detail - "222 Tips for building model railroad structures" originally published by Blue Ribbon Models in 1989. He also authored another very good book "How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery" available from Kalmbach currently.
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