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Dry Transfer Number Boards
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I am not sure that dry transfers would be good for this application. As you must "burnish" the paint letter or number onto the model surface from the back side of the clear plastic backing sheet it really works best with a fair sized flat area to work on. You must keep the sheet firmly in place while burnishing so cutting into small pieces doesn't work very well although I suppose you could try to hold the small cut piece steady with a pair of tweezers. I assume the surface you wi***o apply the number to is recessed below the surrounding area like a lamp housing or body surface. The dry transfer backing sheet is fairly stiff and would not be easy to bend down into a confined space. <br /> <br />This is not to say it can't be done. Anything is possible if you want to work at it that hard. I think decals would be the way to go. With dry tranfers you only get one shot at placement and if you miss you then have to remove the error which can be a pain. Also very small print dry transfers sometimes are prone to "blocking up" or not "releasing" completely leaving a somewhat blurred letter or number. <br /> <br />Hope this helps. I use dry transfers often and like them very much but I'm not sure I would try to use them the way you want to. If you have any questions about my observations send me an email. <br /> <br />Ben
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