Dealing with N scale trains (Life-Like, Bachmann, older Atlas, etc), I find that a lot of metal wheels (axles) aren't to NMRA specs. The flanges are either too far apart or to close. This is a problem with cars and engines negotiating Atlas code 80 switches.
I've been using a dial caliper to measure and "spread" the wheels apart, but it's hit or miss. Is there a preferred method or tool you guys use? I've converted a lot of freight cars to Atlas (MT) 33" replacement plastic wheels and while that does solve the problem, just looking for other options. Pretty sure it's a spacing issue and not a profile (height) problem.
BTW - I know the debates of plastic vs metal wheels, and IF i could use the plastic wheels on all I would, but some trucks don't allow for them (fit is too loose). Also, I've have done a little sanding in the switch guides, but seen like I'm fixing the wrong problem.
On a similar note, using rapido couplers, I know how to check for correct height, but exactly how do you adjust the height when it's not correct??? I can imagine sanding the shank, but there has to be an easier way!!!
Thanks
Archer1
The preferred "tool" I use is the MT truck w/couplers.
I toss the older Rapido truck/coupler.You would be wise to do the same.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Larry -
That response is kinda why I resisted posting here for so long. This is a hobby for me, and as such, I really don't like the "replace it with the new and improved" mentality. Much rather figure out how to make something work, a little more of a challenge and IMHO more fun (different strokes, I guess). This stuff can't be that difficult, nor do I think "tossing" several hundred trucks cost efficient.
I might wind up doing that at some point in the future, but haven't given up yet.
Anywho, not looking for a debate, just answers - if there are any. Tks
Archer1 Larry - That response is kinda why I resisted posting here for so long. This is a hobby for me, and as such, I really don't like the "replace it with the new and improved" mentality. Much rather figure out how to make something work, a little more of a challenge and IMHO more fun (different strokes, I guess). This stuff can't be that difficult, nor do I think "tossing" several hundred trucks cost efficient. I might wind up doing that at some point in the future, but haven't given up yet. Anywho, not looking for a debate, just answers - if there are any. Tks Archer1
Archer1,My reply wasn't meant to be a debate or new is better.
I gave you the advice is based on my lessons learned.It may not be popular but,its the best solution.I don't like spending money on replacement trucks/couplers either but,its a necessary evil for smoother operation.
Ok then.I have never found a way to adjust Rapido couplers the 10 years I used them -'78-88. other then re seating them in their coupler box after lightly sanding the T end of the coupler to remove any imperfections and if that failed I simply replaced the truck with a better Rapido coupler set up..I even manage to switch cars with these couplers..
That's pretty much what I've been doing with the rapido couplers and it "sometimes" works.
The MT freight axles have solved the problem of gauge/profile with the turnout guides for rolling stock. Just figured that there might be some other tricks I hadn't thought of - especially with the metal wheel spacing. Since manually spreading or tightening the wheels on the axle does also work, just not as precise a procedure as I'd like. Again, similar problem with some locos.
Anywho, guess the real thing that's bugging me, is that I've seen a number of articles and videos on using NMRA gauges to check for "spec", but oddly enough, they never tell you what to do when something is out of spec!!!
Tks
Archer,
It sounds like you're working with a lot of older, second hand equipment. The older metal wheels that used to be "standard" on Atlas freight cars and others have plastic insulators that separate the metal tread from the metal axle. That insulator is made from a slippery engineering plastic, and had the tendency to "creep" on the axle, causing the flanges to go out of gauge. The purpose of the NMRA gauge, as you've discovered, is to determine whether you're wide or narrow compared to the standard.
If you're inclined to keep these wheels, you need a pair of needlenose pliers and perhaps a small jeweler's screwdriver. You grip the axle between the wheels with the pliers, then gently nudge the wheel in or out until it matches the gauge. It's important not to use the pliers on the point of the axle, as it might become blunted, and not roll as freely in the side frame.
There are problems with those old wheels, though, which is one of the reasons the major manufacturers no longer use them.
Aside from the slippage that is common, they also have terribly wide treads and deep flanges that look very un-prototypical. Also, on newer track systems, such as Atlas Code 55, they cause operational problems because the deep flanges hit the cross ties.
Really, the most economical thing to do is to get the replacement wheelsets. Be aware that there are several different axle lengths available to accommodate different trucks. The best bet would be to get a couple of small packages (12 axles) of each length, and try them in your various cars to see which works best. The axle should float between the side frames comfortably, but not be so loose as to fall out.
Good luck with that. If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Hi Lee -
Thanks!
Yes I have older pieces, some second hand and some not! Still have my first Atlas Riverossi E8 from 1967 or 68 and the set that came with it. Even some of the newer Model Power cars seem to have the same wheel/axle types you described, as well as some semiolder Bachmann cars.
As I said, the Atlas (MT) replacement 33" freight axles do solve the problem, but as you noted, they don't exactly fit all the trucks correctly. If the did, I'd just replace all the wheels and be done with it. Trucks are a different story because the trucks have to match the chassis mount.
Sure, the best solution would be to upgrade, but I do enjoy making older stuff stuff work. Happily, I have no intention of going to code 55 track, and right now the only issue is the guide rails on the Atlas code 80 switches and some cars.
BTW - since you offered would you know of any wheel sets to fit the old style Riverossi heavy weight passenger car trucks or the new Model Power corrogated/smooth sides for that matter???
Thanks again
Hi from Belgium,
As far I am concerned by freight trucks, the best is to replace the wheels because adjusting old one could be tricky and sometimes you don't have the results you wanted.
MT trucks with MT couplers are certainly the best choice for replacement because of the quality of the coupler but also by the rolling qualities and the all in gauge manufacturing.
Of course I prefer to change the wheels with metal ones with low profile for a better appearence and to avoid to accumulate dirt on the wheels. I also put the coupler body mounted for better operations but I don't know if You want to operate your layout. Wheight in this case is also important.
Good luck.
Marc in the way To move my Maclau River RR.