Track Current Question

[willjayna]

I wanted to know if anyone would have suggestions on how I can get current to my track. I currently use like-like power loc track and use terminal rerailers. I model in HO and on my layout I use three terminal rerailers to supply the power to the track. Now the problem is the terminal rerailers are 18" radius curves and I want to get rid of these and go with 22" curves for greater realism.

Is there anyway that I can get current to my track without using the terminal rerailers. Could I somehow solder my lines into straight pieces or any other way? Thanks in advance.

Will

[jeffrey-wimberly]

 You can solder the feed wires directly to the rails.

[wjstix]

Probably the most reliable way would be to solder feeders to the rails - either straights or curves are fine to solder to. Otherwise, Atlas makes rail joiners that have wires soldered to them. They work pretty well.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

wjstix

Atlas makes rail joiners that have wires soldered to them. They work pretty well.

A word on those. The wires are quite thin and can break easily. Handle them carefully. The real trick would be figuring out to use them with Power-Loc track, as it goes together with a sideways motion.

[TomDiehl]

Most people do solder the connection directly to the rail, and the larger the layout, the more feed points you need to have. The easiest way is to solder a small gauge wire to the outside of the rail and feed it through the roadbed and base then connect it to a larger gauge wire that is connected to your power pack.

If you're not ready to try soldering, Atlas does make a 9 inch straight terminal track.

http://www.atlasrr.com/Images/Track/Trackphotos/0840.JPG

If you're ready to go a little deeper into model railroading, a good place for beginner operation is the National Model Railroad Association and their "Beginner" page:

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/

 

[AntonioFP45]

 Will,

Look at this vid clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HFoER_5UBk&feature=PlayList&p=742895E088C8A2F4

The method the author is using can be used to solder the wires onto the rail.  At first, I found soldering wire to rail cumbersome. However, after practicing, it became much easier. 

[IRONROOSTER]

Power-Loc makes an adapter piece (currently on sale at Walther's) that connects to other track with rail joiners on one end and Power-Loc connection on the other.  Two of those and a straight terminal track from another manufacturer (Bachmann EZ track terminal rerailer comes to mind) may work for you.

If you solder, some Power-Loc is nickel-silver and some is steel.  I've never soldered steel but I have read that you need an acid flux with steel.

Enjoy

Paul

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

If I remember correctly Power-Loc steel rail has a zinc coating for better conductivity and as a corrosion inhibitor. It's easier to solder to zinc than to steel.

[Jake1210]

My honest advice?

Ditch the Power-Loc track. I had that on train sets when I was 5 and realized then that it was worthless. I would advise to use Atlas Code 83 True Track or Bachmann E-Z Track if you are set on track with attached roadbed. (The Atlas track snaps off the roadbed for when you want to move to more advanced tracklaying) Or just regular Atlas Code 83 track, which would be my highest recommendation.