Edit post

Edit your reply below.

Post Body
Enter your post below.
Hi John, Here is your original question: [quote]QUOTE: Ive been out of HO's for so long I need to research, thanks to the forum. Question? What have you all found to be the best and least inexpensive way to start with dcc. Since my loco's are mostly 70's brass I don't know anything about retro-fitting them with the horns, bells & whistles, let alone just getting the to run. I like to lay my own ties, ballast & etc. Not switches, to tough to guage. I'm o.k. with the lay out wireing. -------------------- John, 4449 West Coast, S.J. Div. [/quote] The best stuff in my opinion (and it is just that) is Digitrax. This is what we use at the local modular club. No complaints. Digitrax also makes a "starter set" called the Zephyr that comes highly recommended. It looks more like the old power packs (i.e. a big throttle knob on a box) but it has almost all the features of the big guys. If you are running a monster layout with dozens of locos at once, you will need something bigger. If you are running something small-ish, it should be fine. http://www.ttx-dcc.com is Tony's Train Exchange. They also come highly recommended as a source of info about, and supplier of all things DCC. The Zephyr should be well under US$200 by now. You will have to buy a decoder for each engine - they start at about $20. If you want (literally) the bells and whistles (i.e. sound decoders), they are somewhat more expensive - up to a few hundred $$$ each, depending on what you need. As for converting brass locos - if I had any, I'd let the club expert have a go at it. From what I understand about brass, especially older stuff, is that the frame is used for routing power to the (usually open frame) motor. This is a DCC-no-no. The motor must be insulated, as it has to be under the direct control of the decoder. That means the power must be delivered to the decoder, not the motor. It may not be worth your while to try to do this due to 1) the amount of work involved, 2) the cost, and 3) the value of the "original" brass may be compromised if you modify it (if you're into the "collector" part of the hobby too). It may be simpler to get some of the nice new well-detailed plastic engines that come with a decoder (or are decoder-ready), a quiet, powerful "can" motor, and so on. I hope this is useful info for you. Good luck! Don't be afraid to ask more questions... Andrew
Tags (Optional)
Tags are keywords that get attached to your post. They are used to categorize your submission and make it easier to search for. To add tags to your post type a tag into the box below and click the "Add Tag" button.
Add Tag

Update Reply

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Model Railroader Newsletter See all

Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!

Subscriber & Member Login

Edit post

Post Body

Tags (Optional)

Subscriber & Member Login

Users Online

Search the Community