I have a few "older" unpainted Brass Steam locomotives that are begining to show signs of tarnish. What are the best ways to remove this tarnish (other than the obvious answer...get them painted). Is using Brasso a good idea?
Mike
Try some household vinegar. This has been used for years to clean off brass that has been tarnished. Won't work on brass that has been clear coated, but these probably don't tarnish anyway. The only time I've done it was when I had to paint a friends' O scale caboose. I removed everything I could and immersed the model in a large container of vinegar. It would only hold about half of the model, and when I took it out, the line were the vinegar ended clearly showed nice shiny brass on the dipped side. Don't know how practical this might be for a loco, as the body would need to be removed first.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
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Unfortunately, there are quite a few variables involved in restoring the appearance of a tarnished brass loco. Many (most?) truly early brass models weren't given any clearcoat, so the true brass surface is exposed and available for cleaning. Some older models actually had a very thin application of brass-colored paint applied (!) to them, which can muck things up more than a bit. Later models were mostly clearcoated, but many of these still darkened to one degree or another over time.
In most cases, the removal of tarnish from an expensive brass model is not a job for the general hobbyist. As Bob indicates, sometimes you can get results with something as simple as a careful vinegar bath but I don't think you'll find that works too often. More commonly, the situation calls for either ultrasonic cleaning, or bead blasting, neither of which is usually a part of the average hobbyist's equipment. Likewise, the latter process in the hands of an amateur can ruin a brass model. There's also the problem of tiny plastic bearings, insulators and such being attacked by any strong cleaner/method employed. I'd find a pro to handle the job.
And scrubbing with Brasso is definitely not an approach I' attempt.
CNJ831
CNJ's suggestion of both the ultrasonic and the bead blasting methods are done in some aspects of antique refinishing/cleaning---if you think you could AFFORD the ultrasonic cleaning machines that might be a better way to do it. But practice the thing on something you're not likely to worry about FIRST.
As for bead blasting BTDT. I used to do this at one time for a living on all kinds of sheet metal work--and it will RUIN Brass in no time flat if it is not done properly. Even the idea of taking it to a professional might be a bit of a slog--you have to do a bit of searching and that----check for references if you go that way--
And Brasso is really not effective in cleaning Brass well. Again BTDT.
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I've used a 50-50 solution of household vinegar and warm water to clean brass locos (disassembled), but only prior to painting them. However I have noticed a difference in the brass finish after cleaning them. But as to whether or not this is an effective treatment for a loco that's going to remain brass, I have no idea. My brass gets painted pretty quick.
Tom
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When I want to clean up the tarnish on my scratchbuilt brass engines for progress pics I use a product called Twinkle, meant for cleaning copper and brass pots and pans. I get it at the local Jewel grocery store.
http://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Brass-Copper-Cleaner-Kit/dp/B001FUQWEW
It's a paste product, and I use an old tooth brush to gently scrub the engine. A quick rinse with hot water and the brass looks like new again. It also works great on nickel plated brass.
John
An additional point not mentioned so far but definitely worth noting is that in the case of many older brass models the soldering jobs weren't always the greatest. One often finds a few small details on the model that are presently being held in place more by friction than anything else. So...be prepared for any form of brush "scrubbing" , even of the gentlest fashion, to occasionally dislodge some small parts that will ultimately need re-soldering.
CNJ831 An additional point not mentioned so far but definitely worth noting is that in the case of many older brass models the soldering jobs weren't always the greatest. One often finds a few small details on the model that are presently being held in place more by friction than anything else. So...be prepared for any form of brush "scrubbing" , even of the gentlest fashion, to occasionally dislodge some small parts that will ultimately need re-soldering. CNJ831
Good point. An ultra sonic cleaner will also find every poor solder joint on a brass loco. Some of the Overland steam from the 80's are notorious for "cold" solder joints.
Although it's better to find those bad joints now then try to fix them after it's painted.