Hi!
I've got 29 of the Walthers newer HO passenger cars, including the ATSF Super Chief cars, and all the Illinois Central heavyweight & lightweight cars.
In testing my HO layout lower level and grade (from the main level), I am using a string of these cars to assure tracking & clearance, etc. Well, on the 2 % grade (a very accurate 2 % grade I might add), they barely roll - or in some cases they won't roll if you don't give them a push. Gee, if they won't roll downhill, how in the world can I get them uphill?
On the other hand, I've got a string of Athearn ATSF heavyweights, with Intermountain wheelsets, that are extremely free rolling and "fly" down the incline.
Soooo, my question(s) to you are, is the feeble "rollability" of the Walthers cars normal? And, do you have any recommendations to improve them?
Thank you,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
The walthers side frames are metal to provide electrical pick-up for car lightiing. As per Walthers instruction sheets a small amount of plastic compatible lubricant like LaBelle #107 should be applied to the axles.
when all else fails read the instructions.
I used graphite lube (dry powder) and my Walthers cars roll very well. I haven't tried the LaBelle, but don't see why that wouldn't work just as well.
I've used a light LaBelle oil on my Walthers trucks, and it's improved their 'rollability' extremely well. Walthers does recommend the use of a lubricant on their trucks because of the metal-to-metal contact.
I've got a couple of newer Walthers cars that roll very well out of the box. Possibly Walthers is starting to lube their trucks at the factory, I don't know.
Now if they'd only sell the cars with those little teeny grabs pre-installed, I'd be a REALLY happy camper.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Break-in (lots of towing, forward and backward by a hefty engine) and lube will eventually have them careening freely down 1% grades if they don't already. I think my Walthers heavies are just that...darned heavy! They take some serious horsepower to get up my 3% grades. But if I dislodge one of them from the consist somehow, it has to be a quick and long reach if I am to stop it from zipping down to the bottom.
-Crandell
Thanks guys!
"When all else fails, read the instructions" - what a novel concept!!!
Seriously, in several decades of HO modeling the one thing I avoided was oiling rail car axles, for that was a sure way to add gunk to the track. Obviously these Walthers cars are different, and I've got the proper lubes to fix them up and will do so shortly.
I also agree that those handrails are a major pain, and frankly I have left them off until I have a very dull day with absolutely nothing else to do.
Thanks again,
I'm with you, Crandell--those heavyweights are just exactly that! I've got an 8-car Walthers Pullman-Standard heavyweight train that I use as my "Scenic Limited", and they sure give me an excuse to double-head with my 4-8-4's up my 2% grades. But as you said, with lube and breaking in, they roll very well.
mobilman44 Thanks guys! "When all else fails, read the instructions" - what a novel concept!!! Seriously, in several decades of HO modeling the one thing I avoided was oiling rail car axles, for that was a sure way to add gunk to the track. Obviously these Walthers cars are different, and I've got the proper lubes to fix them up and will do so shortly. I also agree that those handrails are a major pain, and frankly I have left them off until I have a very dull day with absolutely nothing else to do. Thanks again, Mobilman44
Mobilman:
Just a little dab of the LaBelle will do it, so you don't have to be afraid of gunking up. Better yet, one of the posters suggested a tiny shot of dry graphite. That should work just as well.
nedthomas The walthers side frames are metal to provide electrical pick-up for car lightiing. As per Walthers instruction sheets a small amount of plastic compatible lubricant like LaBelle #107 should be applied to the axles. when all else fails read the instructions.
Hmm. That's interesting. My Walthers Superliners do not say to lube the axles in the instruction sheets. I guess I will do that. I used a truck tuner on them though.
Will
just one word on lubrication, NEOLUBE !!! it conducts electricity so your lighting will work just fine and it is slicker that any labelle product out there. when the solvent dries, it leaves a film of graphite/teflon on the surface of the parts.
grizlump
Slightly off topic, but not real far off. I use Kadee trucks with Intermountain wheel sets on my freight cars. This too means metal to metal. I lube them all with just a tiny drop of plastic compatable oil. It soaks into the cast metal sideframe and provides virtually "permanent" lubrication. Never had any problems with track gunk, just the opposite, the Intermountain wheels keep the track clean.
While I don't have any of the new Wathers passenger cars, I do have new Walthers trucks on my Athearn streamliners, I lube them with oil as well. Works great.
The freight truck setup discribed above has provided a 30-40% improvemnt in rolling performance and loco pulling capacity.
Sheldon
mobilman44 I also agree that those handrails are a major pain, and frankly I have left them off until I have a very dull day with absolutely nothing else to do.
You've got to be kidding. Obviously, you've never assembled an SP "emergency box car" caboose by Westerfield. I haven't dealt with a model with more handrails than that.
Gee, attaching the few handrails on a Walthers car is so, so difficult. Imagine, drill a few holes, insert the conveniently formed handrails, and apply a bit of cement. Oh, the agony! And the thought of applying a few decals is incomprehensible.
Nevertheless, I'd think anyone capable of assembling a McDonald's hamburger could manage all of this.
Mark
yeah i bought some mcdonalds hamburgers too but i didn't put them together.
P-B-L - P.O. Box 769 - Ukiah, CA 95482 Phone 707-462-7680 - Fax 707-468-7406 a buddy who worked at an oil refinery used to bring me a small vial of it now and then but since he retired i have had to buy some. i got a big jar of it from pbl which will probably last me a lifetime.this product has been discussed in these forums before.grizlump
Phone 707-462-7680 - Fax 707-468-7406
a buddy who worked at an oil refinery used to bring me a small vial of it now and then but since he retired i have had to buy some. i got a big jar of it from pbl which will probably last me a lifetime.
this product has been discussed in these forums before.
markpierce mobilman44 I also agree that those handrails are a major pain, and frankly I have left them off until I have a very dull day with absolutely nothing else to do. You've got to be kidding. Obviously, you've never assembled an SP "emergency box car" caboose by Westerfield. I haven't dealt with a model with more handrails than that. Gee, attaching the few handrails on a Walthers car is so, so difficult. Imagine, drill a few holes, insert the conveniently formed handrails, and apply a bit of cement. Oh, the agony! And the thought of applying a few decals is incomprehensible. Nevertheless, I'd think anyone capable of assembling a McDonald's hamburger could manage all of this. Mark
Mark:
The problem isn't drilling the holes, it's finding enough of the right teeny drillbits that will last through that ABS plastic, LOL! If someone sold those little drillbits by the gross, I'd be 'grab-ironed' to the Maxx. Drilling through the Walthers plastic (or whatever it is) is like feeding minnows to sharks--there just ain't enough around to satisfy 'em.
Of course, you make a VERY good point with those Westerfields. Wowser!
twhite The problem isn't drilling the holes, it's finding enough of the right teeny drillbits that will last through that ABS plastic, LOL! If someone sold those little drillbits by the gross, I'd be 'grab-ironed' to the Maxx. Drilling through the Walthers plastic (or whatever it is) is like feeding minnows to sharks--there just ain't enough around to satisfy 'em.
I'm good for about 20 holes per bit. And I do buy drill bits by the half dozen.
You guys must be quite heavy handed with those pin vises. I have no problem with drilling out those #76/78 holes for the grabs. I'll change a bit due to dulling they will last for quite a few holes. A good method to help stop snapping those bits is to chock up on the bit when inserting into the pin vise chuck.
If you're attempting to chuck them in a dremel for this work, then you'd better start buying plenty more- a pin vise will give the best control.
When drilling holes at or near the corners, slightly angle the hole as not to continue drilling into plastic.
As far as the rolling ability of the Wather's heavyweights, They are sleds out of the box. A drop of oil does the trick. When checking out these cars on the bench, also check the trucks to make sure they are not twisted. Invert the car sighting the axles, I have noticed about 1/3 of my heavyweights have a slight twist to the truck. Some others have had problems riding on the metal tabs for electrical PU and adjustments were needed to the truck screw or flattening of the PU tab. A couple trucks actually needed the truck reworked and had to file the screw head- they were that bad. These ones would derail before finding the trouble.
After assuring the truck is fine, I'll oil each axle and spin them up.
The cars are quite heavy yet roll very freely.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
twhiteI'm with you, Crandell--those heavyweights are just exactly that! I've got an 8-car Walthers Pullman-Standard heavyweight train that I use as my "Scenic Limited", and they sure give me an excuse to double-head with my 4-8-4's up my 2% grades. But as you said, with lube and breaking in, they roll very well. Tom
Hey Tom, could you please upload some pics of your Scenic Limited? I would really love to see it because it´s one of my favorite trains. Are you also running it with a 2-8-8-2 L-131 and 4-8-4 M-68 doubleheader? I think that would look very impressive in HO scale, but not with only 8 heavyweights...
Daniel
For lubricating the Walthers passenger car axles, Hob-E-Lube MOLY GREASE #HL656 (by Woodland Scenics) works very well as it provides a dual benefit. Helps the axles roll freely and since it contains graphite it works as an electrical conductor for the interior lighting kit. The tube tip is just the right size to insert inside of the journal. .
Even if one has a large fleet of Walthers cars that are run frequently, one tube of Moly will last a long time.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Mark,
Glad you enjoy putting in handrails! As I wrote, I have 29 of the Walthers cars and am saving the application of the handrails for a less busy time. I'm currently in the middle of building a railroad, including installation of DCC - my first attempt. So when the RR is up and running, with scenery applied and the whole thing is debugged, I will then give serious thought about handrail applications.
Sure wish you lived near by, for it sounds like you could be a major help in that area!
ENJOY,
mobilman44 Mark, Glad you enjoy putting in handrails! As I wrote, I have 29 of the Walthers cars and am saving the application of the handrails for a less busy time. I'm currently in the middle of building a railroad, including installation of DCC - my first attempt. So when the RR is up and running, with scenery applied and the whole thing is debugged, I will then give serious thought about handrail applications. Sure wish you lived near by, for it sounds like you could be a major help in that area! ENJOY, Mobilman44
You have logical priorities.
As far as installing handgrabs...AAAAAAAHHHHHH. Never said that was my favorite activity. I've my priorities too. As well as a backlog of my own handgrabs to be installed.