This may be your basic HO-101, but I have never seen/heard it referenced and just "discovered" it.
I have a need to install a dedicated loop of Code 100 track on my 100% Code 83 layout because I recently restored some of my father's trains from the mid-to-late 40's (sixty plus years old) and discovered that they do not run well over Code 83 turnouts and re-railers as the wheel flanges are too wide..
Doodling around with some Atlas Code 100 and Code 83 track, I butted them together (end of rails to end of rails) and noticed that the top of the rails are pretty much - as in finger smooth pretty much - the same height. Looking closer, I found that the plastic ties on the Code 83 track are a tad (and a "tad being darned near the difference between Codes 83 and 100) thicker than he Code 100 ties. Planned, coincidence, fate?
Does anyone know for certain if I can just insert Code 100 turnpouts and re-railers if and where I need them (I can limit the old trains to a small part of the layout).
Thanks.
You'll need to compensate for the rail height - code 100 track is 1/10th of an inch high (.100) code 83 is smaller (.083).
You could use Walthers' transition track. It's temp out of stock but is supposed to be coming in this month. Your LHS (local hobby shop) might have them in stock though. Because Walthers ties are smaller than Atlas you may need to shim with styrene, card, etc. to get things to work.
Atlas very deliberately made the height of their code 83 ties .017" thicker than their code 100 ties, so the railheads would come out at the same height. They can be connected end-to-end with Atlas 'Universal' rail joiners. I put a .017" thick sliver of plastic in the bottom of the joiner on the code 83 side, but this may not really be necessary.
My netherworld is laid with code 100 rail, while visible track will be code 83 (and smaller) when I start laying track that won't be hidden. I did lay one length of code 83 concrete tie flex on the Nonomura bypass, just to make sure that the plan wasn't a total dud.
Unlike yours, my ancient (1950s - 1960s) rolling stock was fitted with RP-25 or equivalent wheels from the first - I think Katsumi adopted it for a standard before the NMRA made it a Recommended Practice. The few items I own that had oversize flanges either had the flanges turned down or the wheels replaced, ideas which you might consider if you want to make your father's rolling stock more compatible with your existing layout.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
HeathcliffDoes anyone know for certain if I can just insert Code 100 turnpouts and re-railers if and where I need them
Essentially yes. I have a few such transitions. You should either use transition joiners or (better) flatten the code 83 end of the regular joiner and solder the code 83 to the top of it. Gently file the rail ends and voila!
Works from 83 to 70 too.
Off topic warning ***
BTW: my ME code 70 flex had a hazmat warning label on it. I kid you not. I guess everything in California IS toxic.
***
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net